How to Replace the Battery on a 2016 Chrysler Town & Country (Behind Wheel Liner)
Step-by-step battery swap with tools/parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for terminals and hold-down
How to Replace the Battery on a 2016 Chrysler Town & Country (Behind Wheel Liner)
Step-by-step battery swap with tools/parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for terminals and hold-down
🔧 Town & Country - Battery Replacement
On your Town & Country, the battery is mounted behind the driver-side front wheel splash shield (not right on top of the engine). You’ll remove the wheel and a small inner liner panel to access the battery, then swap it and reconnect in the correct order to protect electronics.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0-2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧤 Wear safety glasses and gloves; batteries can leak acid and vent gas.
- 🔥 Keep sparks/flames away; hydrogen gas can ignite.
- 🧰 Support the van with jack stands; never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- 🔌 Disconnect the negative (-) cable first and reconnect it last to reduce short-circuit risk.
- ⚡ If your wrench touches body metal and the positive terminal at once, it can short—work carefully around the positive (+) terminal.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Socket extension 3/8" (6")
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- Torque wrench 3/8" (inch-pound)
- Torque wrench 1/2" (foot-pound)
- Trim clip remover
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Work light
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 12V battery (Group 94R/H7) - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal anti-corrosion washers - Qty: 2
- Battery terminal protector spray - Qty: 1
- Fender liner push clips - Qty: 4
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to PARK, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
- Turn the ignition fully OFF and keep the key fob at least 10 feet away from the van.
- Open the driver window (helpful if locks reset) and note radio presets/clock.
- Tip: Lay out clips in a small tray.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the driver front wheel lug nuts
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to loosen the lug nuts about 1/2 turn (do not remove yet).
Step 2: Lift and support the van
- Use wheel chocks at the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the driver-front corner at the proper lift point.
- Set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it’s stable.
Step 3: Remove the driver front wheel
- Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm socket and ratchet 3/8" or breaker bar 1/2".
- Remove the wheel and set it flat under the van as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Remove the inner splash shield/liner section to access the battery
- Use a trim clip remover to pop out the plastic push clips.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to help pry any stubborn clips (gently to avoid breaking them).
- Pull the liner back enough to expose the battery tray and terminals.
- Tip: Aim the work light from behind the tire area.
Step 5: Disconnect the battery cables (negative first)
- Use a 10mm socket with a ratchet 3/8" to loosen the negative (-) terminal clamp nut.
- Wiggle and lift the negative clamp off the post and move it aside so it cannot spring back.
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the positive (+) terminal clamp nut and remove the positive clamp.
- Torque on reassembly: Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) for each terminal clamp nut.
- Tip: Twist the clamp—don’t pry the battery post.
Step 6: Remove the battery hold-down
- Use a 13mm socket, ratchet 3/8", and socket extension 3/8" (6") to remove the battery hold-down bolt.
- Remove the hold-down bracket and set it aside.
- Torque on reassembly: Torque to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) for the battery hold-down bolt.
Step 7: Remove the battery
- Slide the battery out of the tray carefully (it’s heavy).
- If a vent tube is present, disconnect it gently by hand before fully removing the battery.
Step 8: Install the new battery
- Set the new Group 94R/H7 battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one.
- Reconnect any vent tube (if equipped) by pushing it on firmly by hand.
- Reinstall the hold-down bracket using the 13mm socket and ratchet 3/8", then Torque to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs) with the torque wrench 1/2" (foot-pound).
Step 9: Reconnect the battery cables (positive first)
- Install the positive (+) clamp first and tighten using a 10mm socket, then Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs) using the torque wrench 3/8" (inch-pound).
- Install the negative (-) clamp last and tighten using a 10mm socket, then Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
- Install battery terminal anti-corrosion washers (one per terminal) and apply battery terminal protector spray.
Step 10: Reinstall the splash shield and wheel
- Reposition the liner and reinstall clips using the trim clip remover (new clips if any broke).
- Reinstall the wheel and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the van using the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and fully lower to the ground.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm socket, then Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) with the torque wrench 1/2" (foot-pound).
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and confirm it cranks strongly and runs smoothly.
- Check that headlights, wipers, and power sliding doors work normally.
- Reset the clock and re-save radio presets if needed.
- If a warning light appears, shut off, recheck terminal tightness and cable seating, then restart.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $90-$190 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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