How to Replace the Alternator on a 2017-2018 Nissan Murano 3.5L V6 (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018
How to Replace the Alternator on a 2017-2018 Nissan Murano 3.5L V6 (Engine: V6 3.5L)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018
π§ Murano - Alternator Replacement
The alternator on your Murano is mounted at the passenger side of the engine and is driven by the serpentine belt. Replacement requires disconnecting the battery, removing the cooling-fan assembly for working room, releasing the belt tension, and transferring the electrical connections.
Difficulty Level: Advanced | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
Assumption: Your Murano retains its original accessory-drive layout.
β οΈ Safety & Precautions
- β οΈ Disconnect the negative battery terminal before touching the alternator. Its output cable carries full battery current and can cause a fire if shorted.
- π§ Work only when the engine and radiator are completely cool.
- π Never place your hands near the cooling fans while the battery is connected. The fans can start automatically.
- π Support your Murano with jack stands if you remove the lower splash shield. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
- π Disconnect only the negative battery terminal first. Do not unplug the battery-current sensor attached to the negative cable.
- π‘οΈ Wear safety glasses and gloves throughout the repair.
π§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 21mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension
- Serpentine-belt tool with 14mm socket (specialty)
- Metric torque wrench rated 5-25 Nm
- Metric torque wrench rated 20-150 Nm
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Nylon trim-clip removal tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Digital multimeter rated 20 volts DC
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- Mechanic's gloves
- Safety glasses
π© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Alternator for 3.5L V6 - Qty: 1
- Serpentine belt - Qty: 1 if worn, cracked, glazed, or contaminated
- Alternator output-terminal insulating cap - Qty: 1 if damaged
- Lower splash-shield clips - Qty: As needed
π Before You Begin
- π Park your Murano on level ground, select Park, apply the parking brake, and switch off all electrical accessories.
- π§± Place wheel chocks behind both rear wheels.
- π‘οΈ Allow the engine to cool completely.
- π· Photograph the serpentine-belt routing. Also use the factory routing label under the hood if it remains readable.
- π Keep the intelligent key away from the vehicle while the battery is disconnected.
- πΎ Record any preferred radio settings. Battery registration or alternator coding is not required after this repair.
π¨ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect the battery
- Open the hood and remove the negative battery terminal with a 10mm socket.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot spring back onto the battery post.
- Do not unplug the electrical connector on the negative-cable battery sensor.
- Wait at least three minutes before working on the alternator wiring.
Step 2: Raise and support the front
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at the front-center lifting point.
- Place the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the reinforced front side support points.
- Lower your Murano onto the stands and gently check that it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the lower splash shield
- Use the 10mm socket to remove the splash-shield bolts.
- Use the nylon trim-clip removal tool to lift the plastic clip centers, then remove the clips.
- Lower the shield and keep its fasteners organized.
Step 4: Clear the upper working area
- Use the 10mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver to loosen and remove the upper air-intake duct as needed.
- Move any clipped wiring retainers from the cooling-fan shroud using the needle-nose pliers.
- Do not open the radiator cap or disconnect refrigerant lines.
Step 5: Remove the cooling-fan assembly
- Press the locking tabs and unplug both cooling-fan electrical connectors by hand.
- Use the 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the upper fan-shroud fasteners.
- Release attached hose and wiring clips with the nylon trim-clip removal tool.
- Lift the fan-and-shroud assembly straight upward. Protect the radiator fins while removing it.
- During installation, tighten the fan-shroud fasteners to 5.5 Nm (49 in-lbs).
- Cardboard protects the radiator fins from damage.
Step 6: Mark and release the serpentine belt
- Use the paint marker to mark the belt's rotation direction if it will be reused.
- A belt tensioner is the spring-loaded pulley that keeps the belt tight automatically.
- Fit the serpentine-belt tool with 14mm socket onto the tensioner and rotate it slowly to remove belt tension.
- Slide the belt off the alternator pulley, then slowly return the tensioner to its stop.
- Do not allow the tensioner to snap back.
- Inspect the belt for cracks, missing ribs, frayed edges, oil contamination, or a shiny glazed surface.
Step 7: Disconnect the alternator wiring
- Press the lock and disconnect the small alternator control connector by hand. Pull on the connector body, not its wires.
- Open the rubber insulating cap over the large output terminal.
- Use the 12mm socket to remove the output-terminal nut, then lift off the cable.
- Keep the cable insulated and away from metal.
- During installation, tighten the output-terminal nut to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs). Do not overtighten the insulated terminal.
Step 8: Remove the alternator
- Support the alternator with one hand. It is heavier than it appears.
- Use the 14mm socket, 3/8-inch drive ratchet, and 3/8-inch drive 6-inch extension to remove the upper and lower mounting bolts.
- Hold the alternator securely as the final bolt is removed.
- Work the alternator out through the space created by removing the cooling-fan assembly.
- Do not pry against the radiator, aluminum engine cover, or air-conditioning lines.
Step 9: Compare and install the replacement alternator
- Place both alternators side by side. Confirm that the pulley, mounting ears, connector, output terminal, and case shape match.
- Position the replacement alternator in its bracket by hand.
- Start every mounting bolt by hand for several turns to prevent crossed threads.
- Use the metric torque wrench rated 20-150 Nm with the 14mm socket to tighten the alternator mounting bolts to 49 Nm (36 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Reconnect the alternator wiring
- Install the output cable and its nut using the metric torque wrench rated 5-25 Nm with the 12mm socket.
- Torque to 9.8 Nm (87 in-lbs).
- Close the terminal's insulating cap completely.
- Push the control connector into the alternator until its lock clicks.
Step 11: Reinstall the serpentine belt
- Route the belt according to your photograph and the under-hood routing label.
- Leave the easiest upper pulley for last.
- Use the serpentine-belt tool with 14mm socket to rotate the tensioner, slip the belt into place, and release the tensioner slowly.
- Check every pulley by sight and touch. Each belt rib must sit completely inside its matching pulley groove.
- One misplaced rib can quickly destroy the belt.
Step 12: Reinstall the cooling-fan assembly
- Lower the fan assembly carefully into its bottom locating tabs without contacting the radiator.
- Install its fasteners with the 10mm socket.
- Use the metric torque wrench rated 5-25 Nm to tighten the fan-shroud fasteners to 5.5 Nm (49 in-lbs).
- Reconnect both fan connectors and reinstall all wiring and hose retainers by hand.
- Reinstall the air-intake duct using the 10mm socket and flat-blade screwdriver.
Step 13: Reinstall the lower splash shield
- Position the shield and install its clips by hand.
- Install its bolts using the 10mm socket. Tighten them only until snug because the shield is plastic.
- Raise your Murano with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum, remove the jack stands, and lower it carefully.
Step 14: Reconnect the battery
- Place the negative cable fully onto the battery post.
- Use the metric torque wrench rated 5-25 Nm with the 10mm socket to tighten the terminal nut to 5.4 Nm (48 in-lbs).
- Do not twist or place strain on the battery-current sensor.
β After Repair
- π Before starting, inspect the engine bay for loose tools, disconnected plugs, and incorrect belt routing.
- π Start the engine and watch the belt from a safe distance. It should run smoothly and remain centered on every pulley.
- π‘ Confirm that the battery warning light turns off after the engine starts.
- π Set the digital multimeter rated 20 volts DC to DC voltage. Measure across the battery terminals with the engine running.
- β‘ Charging voltage normally varies with load and battery condition. A persistent reading near battery-resting voltage, or a reading above approximately 15 volts, requires further diagnosis.
- π Turn on the headlights and climate-control blower, then verify that no warning lights appear and both cooling fans remain connected.
- π Shut the engine off immediately if the belt walks sideways, squeals continuously, or the alternator area produces grinding noises.
- πͺ Reinitialize the automatic front windows if needed: close each window fully, then hold its switch upward for several seconds.
- π Battery registration, alternator programming, and ADAS calibration are not required.
π° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $750-$1,150 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$550 (parts only)
You Save: $450-$600 by doing it yourself!
Local pricing in SonΔ«pat can vary significantly by alternator brand and parts availability. Typical dealership-level labor time is approximately 2.5-3.5 hours.
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