How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Acura ILX (Group 51R)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015
How to Replace the 12V Battery on a 2016 Acura ILX (Group 51R)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for 2013, 2014, 2015
đź”§ ILX - 12V Battery Replacement
Your ILX’s 12V battery powers starting and all electronics. Replacing it is straightforward: remove the hold-down, disconnect the cables (negative first), swap the battery, then reconnect (positive first).
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 0.5-1.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Wear eye protection and gloves; battery acid is corrosive.
- ⚠️ Keep metal tools away from both terminals at once to prevent sparks/shorts.
- ⚠️ Disconnect negative (-) first and reconnect it last.
- ⚠️ If your battery has a vent tube, reconnect it to prevent fumes in the engine bay.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 10mm wrench
- Ratchet (3/8")
- 6" extension (3/8")
- Battery terminal brush
- Torque wrench (in-lb)
- Gloves (chemical-resistant)
- Safety glasses
- Fender cover
- Memory saver (OBD-II) (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- 12V car battery (Group Size 51R) - Qty: 1
- Battery terminal protectant spray - Qty: 1
- Anti-corrosion terminal felt washers - Qty: 2
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to Park, and turn the ignition fully OFF.
- Open the hood and install a fender cover to protect paint.
- If you want to keep radio presets and clock, plug in a memory saver (a small backup power device that plugs into the OBD-II port) before disconnecting the battery.
- Make sure you know which terminal is + and which is - before loosening anything.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Access the battery
- Open the hood and locate the battery in the engine bay.
- If there’s a plastic cover over the battery area, remove it by hand (or use a 10mm socket if it’s bolted).
Step 2: Disconnect the negative (-) cable first
- Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut on the negative (-) terminal clamp.
- Wiggle the clamp and lift it off the terminal. Tuck it to the side so it can’t spring back.
- Tip: Twist the clamp, don’t pry.
Step 3: Disconnect the positive (+) cable
- Use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut on the positive (+) terminal clamp.
- Lift the clamp off and move it aside, away from any metal.
Step 4: Remove the battery hold-down
- Use a 10mm socket, ratchet (3/8"), and 6" extension (3/8") to remove the hold-down nuts/bolts.
- Lift off the hold-down bracket and set it aside.
Step 5: Remove the old battery
- Lift the battery straight up and out. Batteries are heavy—lift with your legs, not your back.
- If your battery has a small vent tube, pull it off gently and remember where it connects.
Step 6: Clean and prep the terminals
- Use a battery terminal brush to clean corrosion from the cable clamps.
- Install anti-corrosion terminal felt washers if you’re using them.
Step 7: Install the new battery
- Place the new battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one (terminals in the same positions).
- Reconnect the vent tube if equipped.
- Reinstall the hold-down bracket and tighten with a 10mm socket.
- Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lb) for the hold-down fasteners.
Step 8: Reconnect cables (positive first, then negative)
- Install the positive (+) clamp first and tighten using a 10mm wrench.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) for the terminal clamp nut.
- Install the negative (-) clamp last and tighten using a 10mm wrench.
- Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lb) for the terminal clamp nut.
- Spray terminals lightly with battery terminal protectant spray.
Step 9: Final check
- Try to rotate each clamp by hand—if it moves, tighten slightly with a 10mm wrench.
- Reinstall any covers you removed.
âś… After Repair
- Start the engine and confirm it cranks normally.
- Reset the clock and re-save radio presets if they were lost.
- If the power windows act “one-touch” weird, cycle each window fully down and fully up once to relearn.
- Check the dash for warning lights; most should clear after a short drive if everything is connected properly.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$420 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $140-$260 (parts only)
You Save: $80-$160 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.5-1.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















