How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2019 Chevrolet Traverse (Front & Rear Bank Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, intake manifold removal, and torque specs for all 6 plugs for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2019 Chevrolet Traverse (Front & Rear Bank Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, intake manifold removal, and torque specs for all 6 plugs for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Traverse - Spark Plug Replacement
On your Traverse, the front 3 spark plugs are easy to reach, but the rear 3 sit under the upper intake manifold (the large plastic/aluminum air chamber on top of the engine). Replacing all 6 restores smooth idle, power, and fuel economy, and helps prevent misfires.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cold engine to avoid burns and damaged threads.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the electronic throttle body and ignition coils.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the intake ports; cover openings with clean shop towels.
- ⚠️ Do not use anti-seize on these spark plugs; the threads are coated from the factory.
- ⚠️ Use a torque wrench; over-tightening can damage the cylinder head.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- 10mm socket
- 8mm socket
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Socket extension set (3", 6", 10")
- Universal swivel joint (3/8" drive)
- 5/8" spark plug socket (rubber insert)
- Torque wrench (10–30 Nm range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Trim clip tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Compressed air blow gun
- Shop towels
- Telescoping magnet pickup tool
- Dielectric grease
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs (iridium, correct OE-equivalent) - Qty: 6
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧰 Park on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- 🧰 Open the hood and let the engine fully cool.
- 🧰 Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable and isolate it so it can’t spring back.
- 🧰 Blow off dirt around the ignition coils and intake area using compressed air to keep debris out of the engine.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Pull up firmly on the engine cover to release the retaining grommets, then lift it off by hand.
- Rock it gently if it feels stuck.
Step 2: Remove the air intake duct
- Use an 8mm socket (or flathead screwdriver if your clamp is slotted) to loosen the intake clamps.
- Disconnect any small breather hose(s) using needle-nose pliers.
- Unplug the MAF sensor connector using your fingers (press the tab), then remove the duct.
Step 3: Remove the front-bank ignition coils (front 3 cylinders)
- Unplug each coil electrical connector by pressing the lock tab and pulling straight back.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the coil bolts.
- Twist each coil boot slightly, then pull the coil upward to remove it.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) when reinstalling coil bolts.
- Coil boot = the rubber “spark plug socket” on the coil.
Step 4: Remove the front 3 spark plugs
- Blow compressed air down each spark plug well to remove dirt.
- Use a 5/8" spark plug socket, extension, and ratchet to loosen and remove each plug.
- Install the new spark plugs by hand first using the spark plug socket and extension (no ratchet) to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten each spark plug: Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
- Apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside each coil boot, then reinstall coils.
Step 5: Remove the throttle body connections
- Unplug the throttle body electrical connector by pressing the tab and pulling straight back.
- If your throttle body has coolant hoses, use needle-nose pliers to move the spring clamps back, then carefully remove hoses (catch any drips with shop towels).
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the throttle body mounting bolts if it must be separated from the intake.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) when reinstalling throttle body bolts.
Step 6: Remove the upper intake manifold (to access the rear 3 plugs)
- Unplug sensors on the intake (commonly MAP), and disconnect the EVAP purge line using the release tabs (use a trim clip tool carefully if needed).
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the upper intake manifold bolts.
- Lift the manifold straight up and off; use shop towels to immediately cover the intake ports.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) when reinstalling the upper intake manifold bolts.
- Intake ports = the open holes into the engine.
Step 7: Replace the rear-bank spark plugs (rear 3 cylinders)
- Unplug the 3 rear ignition coil connectors.
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the rear coil bolts, then remove the coils.
- Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air.
- Use the 5/8" spark plug socket, extensions, and a swivel joint to remove the plugs.
- Install new plugs by hand first, then tighten: Torque to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall coils and tighten coil bolts: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reassemble intake and air ducting
- Remove the shop towels from the intake ports.
- Install new upper intake manifold gaskets, then set the manifold in place.
- Hand-start all intake bolts, then tighten evenly: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the throttle body with a new gasket if removed: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect EVAP line(s), sensor connectors, and any hoses.
- Reinstall the air intake duct and tighten clamps using an 8mm socket.
- Plug the MAF sensor back in.
Step 9: Reconnect battery and reinstall engine cover
- Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable snugly.
- Press the engine cover back onto its grommets by hand.
✅ After Repair
- 🧪 Start the engine and let it idle for 2–3 minutes; it may run slightly rough for a few seconds while it relearns idle.
- 🧪 Check for warning lights and listen for vacuum leaks (a hissing sound) around the intake.
- 🧪 Take a short test drive and recheck for any fuel/vacuum smells under the hood.
- 🧪 If you had a misfire check-engine light before, use a scan tool to clear codes and confirm the misfire is gone.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $70-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $280-$470 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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