How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2019-2026 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, plug gap, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2025, 2026
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2019-2026 Subaru Forester 2.5L (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, plug gap, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023, 2025, 2026
🔧 Forester - Spark Plug Replacement
Replacing the spark plugs on your Forester helps restore smooth idle, easy starts, fuel economy, and proper ignition performance. The 2.5L flat-four engine places the spark plugs low on each side of the engine, so the job needs patience, short extensions, and careful hand-threading.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine cool fully before starting; the plugs thread into aluminum cylinder heads that can be damaged when hot.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent accidental electrical shorts while working near ignition coils.
- ⚠️ Do not force spark plugs. Cross-threading means the plug is going in crooked and can damage the cylinder head.
- ⚠️ Work on one spark plug at a time so ignition coils and connectors stay in the correct location.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the spark plug wells. Any debris can fall into the engine when the plug is removed.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
- 3-inch 3/8-inch drive extension
- 6-inch 3/8-inch drive extension
- 3/8-inch drive universal joint adapter
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Compressed air blow gun
- Spark plug gap gauge
- Magnetic pickup tool
- Fender cover
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Iridium spark plugs - Qty: 4
- Dielectric grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Forester on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- Open the hood and allow the engine to cool completely.
- Use a 10mm socket to loosen the negative battery cable nut, then remove the cable from the battery post.
- A spark plug socket is a special deep socket with a rubber insert or magnet that grips the spark plug without dropping it.
- A universal joint adapter lets the socket angle slightly so it can reach plugs in tight spaces.
- Do not apply anti-seize to the new iridium spark plugs unless the plug manufacturer specifically requires it; most modern plugs have coated threads.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the Engine Cover and Intake Ducting
- Use your hands to lift the plastic engine cover upward from its rubber mounts, if equipped.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake duct clamp at the air box.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the intake duct clamp at the throttle body.
- Use needle-nose pliers to release any small hose clamps attached to the intake duct.
- Remove the intake duct and place it aside.
- Take a photo before removing hoses.
Step 2: Access the Driver-Side Ignition Coils
- Stand at the driver side of your Forester and look low along the side of the engine.
- The ignition coils are small black electrical modules attached directly over each spark plug.
- Use compressed air blow gun to clean around each ignition coil before removal.
- Press the connector tab by hand and unplug the ignition coil connector.
- If the connector is tight, use a flat-blade screwdriver gently under the locking tab. Do not pry hard.
Step 3: Remove One Driver-Side Ignition Coil
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the ignition coil retaining bolt.
- Twist the ignition coil gently by hand to break the rubber boot loose.
- Pull the ignition coil straight out of the spark plug tube.
- Set the coil aside in the same direction it came out.
Step 4: Remove the Old Spark Plug
- Use compressed air blow gun to clean inside the spark plug well before removing the plug.
- Install the 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket, 3-inch extension, universal joint adapter, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet onto the spark plug.
- Turn counterclockwise slowly to loosen the spark plug.
- Once loose, spin it out gently by hand using the extension.
- Remove the old plug with the spark plug socket or magnetic pickup tool.
- If the plug feels stuck, tighten it slightly, loosen again, and work slowly.
Step 5: Prepare the New Spark Plug
- Use a spark plug gap gauge to verify the new plug gap is about 0.039-0.043 in.
- Do not pry hard on an iridium plug tip. The fine center electrode is delicate.
- Apply a tiny amount of dielectric grease inside the ignition coil boot only.
- Do not put dielectric grease on the spark plug threads or metal tip.
Step 6: Install the New Spark Plug
- Place the new spark plug into the 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket.
- Use only the extension by hand at first. Thread the plug clockwise into the cylinder head.
- The plug should turn smoothly for several turns. If it does not, remove it and start again.
- Attach the 3/8-inch drive torque wrench and tighten the spark plug to Torque to 17.5 Nm (12.9 ft-lbs).
- Hand-start every plug to avoid damage.
Step 7: Reinstall the Ignition Coil
- Push the ignition coil boot straight onto the new spark plug until seated.
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to install the ignition coil bolt.
- Tighten the ignition coil bolt to Torque to 6.4 Nm (57 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the electrical connector by hand until it clicks.
Step 8: Repeat for the Second Driver-Side Plug
- Use the 10mm socket to remove the second driver-side ignition coil bolt.
- Use compressed air blow gun to clean the plug well.
- Use the 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket, extension, universal joint adapter, and ratchet to remove the old plug.
- Install the new plug by hand, then tighten to Torque to 17.5 Nm (12.9 ft-lbs).
- Use the 10mm socket and torque wrench to reinstall the coil bolt to Torque to 6.4 Nm (57 in-lbs).
Step 9: Access the Passenger-Side Ignition Coils
- Move to the passenger side of your Forester.
- If extra space is needed, use a 10mm socket to remove the air intake resonator or small brackets blocking access.
- Use compressed air blow gun to clean around the passenger-side ignition coils.
- Unplug one ignition coil connector by pressing the connector tab by hand.
Step 10: Replace the Passenger-Side Spark Plugs
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove one ignition coil bolt.
- Twist and pull the ignition coil out by hand.
- Use the 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket, 3-inch extension, universal joint adapter, and ratchet to remove the spark plug.
- Check the new plug gap with the spark plug gap gauge at 0.039-0.043 in.
- Thread the new spark plug in by hand using the socket and extension.
- Use the 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the plug to Torque to 17.5 Nm (12.9 ft-lbs).
- Reinstall the ignition coil and tighten its bolt with a 10mm socket to Torque to 6.4 Nm (57 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the coil connector by hand until it clicks.
- Repeat this process for the remaining passenger-side spark plug.
Step 11: Reinstall Intake Ducting and Engine Cover
- Reinstall the intake duct by hand between the air box and throttle body.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to tighten both intake duct clamps until snug.
- Use needle-nose pliers to reconnect any small hose clamps removed earlier.
- If any brackets were removed, use a 10mm socket or 12mm socket to reinstall them snugly.
- Push the engine cover back onto its rubber mounts by hand.
Step 12: Reconnect the Battery
- Place the negative battery cable back onto the battery post.
- Use a 10mm socket to tighten the negative battery cable nut snugly.
- Do not overtighten the battery terminal; it only needs to be secure and unable to twist by hand.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start your Forester and let it idle for 1-2 minutes.
- ✅ The engine may idle slightly high at first after the battery disconnect; this usually settles as the idle relearns.
- ✅ Listen for misfires, ticking, or air leaks near the intake duct.
- ✅ Make sure the check engine light stays off.
- ✅ Take a short test drive, then recheck that all intake clamps and connectors are secure.
- ✅ If the power windows lose auto-up/down, reset each window by fully lowering it, fully raising it, and holding the switch up for about 2 seconds.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$550 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $180-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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