How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Ford Flex (Front & Rear Bank Intake Removal)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for coils and plugs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Ford Flex (Front & Rear Bank Intake Removal)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts, safety tips, and torque specs for coils and plugs for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Flex - Spark Plug Replacement
On your Flex, the spark plugs sit under ignition coils (one coil per plug). The front bank is straightforward; the rear bank usually requires removing the upper intake manifold so you can reach the plugs safely without damaging anything.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.5-4.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool engine to avoid burns and thread damage in the cylinder head.
- ⚠️ Keep dirt out of the engine: cover intake openings immediately after removing the intake manifold.
- ⚠️ No smoking/open flames—fuel vapors can be present around the intake.
- ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable if you’ll be unplugging multiple connectors for the intake (recommended).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 7mm socket
- 1/4" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10–30 ft-lbs range)
- 1/4" drive torque wrench (in-lb torque wrench)
- 3/8" drive extension set (3" and 6")
- 5/8" spark plug socket
- Pick tool
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Trim clip removal tool
- Compressed air blow gun
- Shop vacuum
- Masking tape and marker
- Clean rags
- Dielectric grease
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs (OEM equivalent, correct heat range) - Qty: 6
- Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
- Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool fully.
- Use masking tape and marker to label any hoses/connectors you remove. It prevents “where does this go?” later.
- Disconnect the battery: use a 10mm socket to remove the negative (-) cable and move it aside.
- Assumption: rear plugs require upper intake manifold removal (common on the 3.5L transverse layout).
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover and open up access
- Pull up to remove the decorative engine cover (it’s usually held by grommets).
- Use a trim clip removal tool as needed so you don’t crack plastic clips.
Step 2: Remove the air intake tube (to make room)
- Use a 7mm socket to loosen the hose clamps on the intake tube.
- Unplug any sensors on the tube by pressing the tab; use a pick tool gently if the lock is stubborn.
- Remove the intake tube and set it aside.
Step 3: Replace the front-bank spark plugs (front of engine)
- Unplug one ignition coil connector at a time (press the tab, then pull).
- Remove the coil hold-down bolt using an 8mm socket.
- Twist the coil boot slightly, then pull the coil straight up and out.
- Blow out the spark plug well using compressed air blow gun so debris can’t fall into the cylinder.
- Remove the spark plug using a 5/8" spark plug socket, 3/8" drive ratchet, and extension.
- Install the new plug by lowering it in with the spark plug socket and turning it by hand first (this prevents cross-threading).
- Tighten with a 3/8" drive torque wrench: Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
- Apply a small dab of dielectric grease inside the coil boot (dielectric grease is a non-conductive grease that helps prevent moisture and future sticking).
- Reinstall the coil and bolt with an 8mm socket: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
- Reconnect the coil connector until it clicks.
- Repeat for the other front-bank cylinders.
Step 4: Remove the upper intake manifold (to reach the rear plugs)
- Unplug the throttle body connector and any intake-related connectors you can see; use a pick tool carefully for locking tabs.
- Disconnect small vacuum/PCV hoses using needle-nose pliers as needed (move clamps back first).
- Remove the upper intake manifold bolts using a 10mm socket and ratchet.
- Lift the upper intake manifold off gently. If it sticks, use a flathead screwdriver very carefully at a reinforced edge—do not gouge the sealing surfaces.
- Immediately cover the intake openings with clean rags to keep bolts/dirt out of the engine.
Step 5: Replace the rear-bank spark plugs (rear of engine)
- Remove each rear ignition coil: unplug connector, then use an 8mm socket to remove the coil bolt.
- Blow out each plug well using the compressed air blow gun.
- Remove each plug using a 5/8" spark plug socket, extension, and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Install each new plug by hand first, then torque: Torque to 15 Nm (11 ft-lbs).
- Add a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot, reinstall coils, and tighten coil bolts: Torque to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
- Reconnect each coil connector until it clicks.
Step 6: Reinstall the upper intake manifold with new gaskets
- Remove old intake manifold gaskets. Clean the mating surfaces using clean rags (no scratching).
- Install the new upper intake manifold gaskets.
- Set the upper intake manifold back in place.
- Install bolts finger-tight first using a 10mm socket, then tighten evenly in a crisscross pattern.
- Tighten with a 1/4" drive torque wrench (in-lb torque wrench): Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- If the throttle body was removed, install a new throttle body gasket and tighten fasteners evenly: Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Reconnect all hoses and electrical connectors.
Step 7: Reinstall the intake tube and engine cover
- Reinstall the air intake tube and tighten clamps using a 7mm socket.
- Reconnect any sensors you unplugged (listen for the click).
- Press the engine cover back onto its mounts.
Step 8: Reconnect battery
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle for 1–2 minutes. It should run smooth with no shaking.
- Listen for hissing (vacuum leak). If you hear it, re-check intake hoses and manifold seating.
- Road test 10–15 minutes, then re-check for any warning lights.
- Tip: If a check engine light appears, a connector is often not fully clicked in.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$160 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$590 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.5-4.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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