How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2016 Ford F-150 3.5L EcoBoost
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016
🔧 Spark Plugs - Replacement
On your F-150, the spark plugs are deep in the cylinder heads, so this job takes patience and the right socket. The turbocharged 3.5L uses coil-on-plug ignition, so you’ll remove each ignition coil first, then swap the plugs one cylinder at a time.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a cool engine only. Hot cylinder heads can damage new plugs and burn you.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable before starting.
- Keep dirt out of the plug wells. Debris can fall into the cylinder when the plug is removed.
- Do not overtighten the new plugs. The aluminum heads can be damaged easily.
- Use only the correct spark plugs for the turbocharged engine. Wrong plugs can cause misfires.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 5/8-inch spark plug socket
- 6-inch extension
- 10mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Trim clip tool
- Compressed air or air blow gun
- Dielectric grease
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Spark plugs - Qty: 6
- Valve cover/coil boot grease - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Let the engine cool completely.
- Disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the plastic engine cover if equipped.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Disconnect power and clear access
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable.
- Remove the engine cover by lifting it off if equipped.
- If needed, remove any intake ducting that blocks access to the rear cylinders.
Step 2: Remove one ignition coil at a time
- Use a 10mm socket to remove the coil hold-down bolt.
- Unplug the coil electrical connector by releasing the tab and pulling straight back.
- Twist the coil gently and pull it out of the spark plug well.
- Keep each coil with its original cylinder.
Step 3: Clean around the plug wells
- Use compressed air or an air blow gun to blow debris away from each plug well.
- This keeps dirt from falling into the cylinder when the plug comes out.
Step 4: Remove the old spark plugs
- Use a 5/8-inch spark plug socket, 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove each plug.
- Turn counterclockwise and work slowly.
- If a plug feels tight, back it out a little and continue slowly to avoid thread damage.
Step 5: Install the new spark plugs
- Check that each new plug is the correct type and gap if required.
- Install each plug by hand first using the spark plug socket and extension.
- Once seated, tighten with a torque wrench to 13 Nm (115 in-lbs).
- Do not use anti-seize unless the plug manufacturer specifically says to.
Step 6: Reinstall the ignition coils
- Add a small amount of dielectric grease inside each coil boot.
- Push each coil straight down onto the new spark plug.
- Reinstall the coil bolt with a 10mm socket and tighten to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
- Reconnect each coil electrical connector until it clicks.
Step 7: Reassemble and reconnect power
- Reinstall any intake parts and the engine cover.
- Reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and let it idle.
- Listen for smooth idle and check for misfire or rough running.
- If the check engine light is on, scan for misfire codes and verify all coil connectors are seated.
- Take a short test drive and confirm normal acceleration.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $80-$180 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$470 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-4 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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