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2018 Chevrolet Impala
2012 - 2019 Chevrolet Impala
LS V6 3.6L
Compatible with more variants.

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2012-2020 Chevy Impala 3.6L Spark Plugs Replacement How-To

2012-2020 Chevy Impala 3.6L Spark Plugs Replacement How-To

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8mm
8mm
Socket
or (5/16")
10mm
10mm
Socket
or (3/8")
13mm
13mm
Socket
or (1/2")
5/8"
5/8"
Deep Socket
or (16mm)
1/4
1/4
Ratchet
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How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2012-2020 Chevrolet Impala 3.6L V6 (Trim: LT | Engine: V6 3.6L)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2012-2020 Chevrolet Impala 3.6L V6 (Trim: LT | Engine: V6 3.6L)

Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Impala - Spark Plug Replacement

Your Impala uses six spark plugs, one beneath each ignition coil. Access to the rear cylinder bank requires removing the upper intake manifold, so careful labeling and clean working conditions are important.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

Assumption: Specifications below apply to the stock 3.6L V6 installation.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Let the engine cool completely. Removing spark plugs from hot aluminum cylinder heads can damage the threads.
  • ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging the electronic throttle body.
  • ⚠️ Keep dirt and loose hardware out of the exposed intake ports. Cover them immediately after manifold removal.
  • ⚠️ Never use an impact wrench to remove or install spark plugs.
  • ⚠️ Do not apply anti-seize compound to the replacement plug threads unless the plug manufacturer specifically requires it.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 8mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 5/8-inch spark plug socket with rubber insert
  • 1/4-inch-drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
  • 3-inch extension
  • 6-inch extension
  • 10-inch extension
  • 3/8-inch-drive universal joint
  • Inch-pound torque wrench rated 40-250 in-lbs
  • Foot-pound torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Hose-clamp pliers
  • Plastic trim removal tool
  • 0.043-inch wire-style spark plug gap gauge
  • Compressed-air blow gun rated 30 psi maximum
  • Shop vacuum with crevice nozzle
  • Clean lint-free shop towels
  • Masking tape and permanent marker
  • Magnetic pickup tool
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Iridium spark plugs specified for the 3.6L V6 - Gap: 0.043 in (1.1mm) - Qty: 6
  • Upper intake manifold gasket set - Qty: 1
  • Throttle body gasket - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🚗 Park your Impala on level ground, select Park, apply the parking brake, and open the hood.
  • 🌡️ Wait until the engine is completely cold.
  • 🔋 Switch off the ignition and keep the key or transmitter away from the vehicle.
  • 📝 Use masking tape and a permanent marker to label every electrical connector and hose before disconnecting it.
  • 🧹 Clean loose dirt from the top of the engine before opening the intake system.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Disconnect the Battery

  • Use a 10mm socket and 1/4-inch-drive ratchet to loosen the negative battery-terminal clamp.
  • Lift the cable from the terminal and position it where it cannot spring back into contact.
  • Wait at least two minutes before disconnecting engine electrical connectors.

Step 2: Remove the Engine Cover

  • Remove the oil filler cap by hand.
  • Lift the engine cover straight upward to release its rubber mounting grommets. A grommet is a rubber socket that holds the cover to a mounting stud.
  • Reinstall the oil filler cap immediately to keep debris out of the engine.

Step 3: Remove the Air Intake Duct

  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to loosen the clamps at the air cleaner and throttle body.
  • Release the fresh-air or breather hose using hose-clamp pliers.
  • Disconnect any electrical connector attached to the duct, using a plastic trim removal tool only if the lock is difficult to release.
  • Lift out the air intake duct and cover the open air-cleaner outlet with a clean lint-free shop towel.

Step 4: Disconnect the Upper Intake Manifold Connections

  • Use masking tape and a permanent marker to label the throttle-body connector, manifold sensor connector, vacuum lines, and vapor-purge connection.
  • Release each connector by pressing its locking tab; do not pull on the wires.
  • Disconnect the vacuum and vapor hoses by releasing their locking tabs by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket and ratchet to remove any wiring-harness brackets attached to the manifold.
  • Move the harness aside without sharply bending it.

Step 5: Remove the Throttle Body

  • Use a 10mm socket, 3-inch extension, and ratchet to remove the four electronic throttle-body bolts.
  • Lift the throttle body away without forcing the throttle plate open.
  • Remove and discard the old throttle-body gasket.
  • Place the throttle body on a clean lint-free shop towel.

Step 6: Remove the Upper Intake Manifold

  • Inspect all sides of the manifold for hidden hoses, connectors, and brackets before loosening it.
  • Use a 10mm socket, extension, and ratchet to loosen the upper intake manifold bolts gradually, working from the outer bolts toward the center.
  • Remove any manifold support fastener encountered with the matching 10mm or 13mm socket.
  • Lift the manifold straight upward. Do not pry against plastic sealing surfaces.
  • Remove the old manifold gaskets.
  • Immediately cover every exposed intake port with clean lint-free shop towels.
  • Use a shop vacuum with crevice nozzle to remove loose debris around the ports. Do not allow anything to fall inside.

Step 7: Remove the Ignition Coils

  • Work on one ignition coil at a time so each coil returns to its original cylinder.
  • Slide back the connector lock, press the release tab, and unplug the coil connector by hand.
  • Use a 10mm socket and 1/4-inch-drive ratchet to remove the coil retaining bolt.
  • Twist the coil gently and pull it straight out of the spark-plug well.
  • Inspect the rubber boot for cracking, oil contamination, or burn marks. Replace a damaged coil boot or coil before reassembly.

Step 8: Clean the Spark-Plug Wells

  • Wear safety glasses.
  • Use a shop vacuum with crevice nozzle around each spark-plug well.
  • If compressed air is available, use a compressed-air blow gun at no more than 30 psi to clear remaining debris.
  • Do not remove a spark plug until its well is clean.

Step 9: Remove the Old Spark Plugs

  • Use a 5/8-inch spark plug socket, 6-inch or 10-inch extension, universal joint where needed, and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet.
  • Turn each plug counterclockwise slowly until it is fully unthreaded.
  • If a plug binds, stop and turn it slightly inward before trying again. Do not force it.
  • Compare the six removed plugs. One unusually wet, oily, or damaged plug can indicate a separate engine problem.

Step 10: Inspect and Install the New Spark Plugs

  • Use a 0.043-inch wire-style spark plug gap gauge to verify a gap of 0.043 in (1.1mm).
  • Do not force a gauge against the fine iridium center electrode. Replace any plug that was dropped or has damaged porcelain.
  • Place one new plug in the 5/8-inch spark plug socket.
  • Use only the extension and socket to turn the plug clockwise by hand for several complete turns. This prevents cross-threading.
  • Once hand-seated, use the foot-pound torque wrench and 5/8-inch spark plug socket to torque each spark plug to 18 Nm (13 ft-lbs).
  • Do not apply anti-seize or thread lubricant unless specifically directed by the spark-plug manufacturer.
  • Hand-start every plug before using the ratchet.

Step 11: Reinstall the Ignition Coils

  • Push each original ignition coil firmly onto its spark plug until fully seated.
  • Install the retaining bolt using a 10mm socket.
  • Use the inch-pound torque wrench and 10mm socket to torque each ignition-coil bolt to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Reconnect each electrical connector and close its locking tab.

Step 12: Reinstall the Upper Intake Manifold

  • Use a shop vacuum and clean lint-free shop towels to clean around the sealing surfaces.
  • Remove every towel from the intake ports and count them to ensure none remains.
  • Install the new upper intake manifold gaskets in their correct grooves. Install them dry unless the gasket instructions specify otherwise.
  • Lower the manifold squarely into position without shifting the gaskets.
  • Start every manifold bolt by hand using a 10mm socket and extension.
  • Tighten the bolts gradually from the center outward in an alternating pattern.
  • Use the inch-pound torque wrench and 10mm socket to torque the upper intake manifold bolts to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall any manifold support fastener removed earlier with the matching socket and tighten it securely to its original position.

Step 13: Reinstall the Throttle Body

  • Position the new throttle-body gasket and throttle body against the manifold.
  • Start all four bolts by hand using a 10mm socket and extension.
  • Use the inch-pound torque wrench and 10mm socket to torque the throttle-body bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs) in a crossing pattern.
  • Reconnect the throttle-body electrical connector and engage its lock.

Step 14: Reconnect Hoses and Wiring

  • Use your masking-tape labels to reconnect every vacuum line, vapor-purge line, sensor connector, and wiring bracket.
  • Use a 10mm socket and inch-pound torque wrench to torque removed wiring-bracket bolts to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Gently pull each connection to verify that it is locked.

Step 15: Reinstall the Air Intake Duct

  • Remove the protective towel from the air-cleaner outlet.
  • Fit the intake duct completely over the air cleaner and throttle-body openings.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to tighten both duct clamps until snug without crushing the plastic duct.
  • Reconnect the breather hose with hose-clamp pliers and reconnect any electrical connector removed earlier.

Step 16: Reinstall the Cover and Battery Cable

  • Remove the oil filler cap by hand, align the engine-cover grommets, and press the cover straight down.
  • Reinstall the oil filler cap securely by hand.
  • Place the negative battery cable onto its terminal.
  • Use a 10mm socket and inch-pound torque wrench to torque the negative battery-terminal nut to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Turn the ignition on for approximately 30 seconds without starting the engine, then switch it off for 30 seconds. This allows the electronic throttle system to initialize.
  • ✅ Start the engine without pressing the accelerator. A brief uneven idle may occur while the engine computer relearns airflow.
  • ✅ Listen for hissing around the intake manifold and check that the engine idles smoothly.
  • ✅ If the check-engine light flashes or the engine shakes strongly, shut it off immediately and recheck the coil connectors, intake seals, and hoses.
  • ✅ After a short test drive, inspect the intake duct and vacuum connections once more.
  • ✅ Reset the clock and saved settings if they were lost during battery disconnection.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹22,000-₹42,000 (imported parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹8,000-₹18,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹14,000-₹24,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor and imported-part prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.


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