How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2007-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Spark Plugs on a 2007-2018 Nissan Altima 2.5L (Engine: Inline 4 2.5L | Body: Sedan)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Altima - Spark Plug Replacement
Your Altima uses four long-life iridium spark plugs, one for each cylinder. Replacement involves removing the ignition coils, cleaning the plug wells, and installing the new plugs without damaging the aluminum cylinder-head threads.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1-1.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Let the engine become completely cold before removing the spark plugs.
- 🧤 Wear gloves and safety glasses because debris may be blown from the plug wells.
- 🔑 Keep the ignition switched off and the key away from the vehicle.
- 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required for this repair.
- 🚫 Do not apply anti-seize compound to the new plug threads; it can cause over-tightening.
- 🚫 Never force a spark plug. The cylinder head is aluminum and its threads are easily damaged.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch-drive 6-inch extension
- 5/8-inch thin-wall spark plug socket
- 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
- 1/4-inch-drive torque wrench rated 20-200 in-lbs
- Compressed-air blow gun rated 90 psi maximum
- Spark plug wire gap gauge marked in 0.1mm increments
- Flashlight rated 100 lumens minimum
- Safety glasses rated ANSI Z87.1
- Nitrile mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- OEM-spec iridium spark plugs, 1.1mm pre-gap - Qty: 4
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your Altima on level ground, select Park, and apply the parking brake.
- ❄️ Allow the engine to cool for at least two hours.
- 🧹 Work on one cylinder at a time so the ignition-coil connectors cannot be mixed up.
- 📏 Confirm each new plug is specified for the 2.5L engine. Check for shipping damage with the spark plug gap gauge, but do not bend or adjust an iridium center electrode.
- 📱 No infotainment setting, scan-tool command, programming, or relearn is required.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the engine cover
- Use nitrile mechanic gloves to grasp the plastic engine cover at its mounting points.
- Lift the cover straight upward to release its rubber mounting grommets, then place it safely aside.
- Use the flashlight to locate the four ignition coils arranged in a row on top of the engine.
Step 2: Disconnect the first ignition coil
- Use your gloved fingers to press the locking tab on the first coil’s electrical connector.
- Pull the connector straight from the coil. Pull on the connector body, not its wires.
- Do one cylinder completely before starting another.
Step 3: Remove the ignition coil
- Use the 10mm socket, 6-inch extension, and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the coil retaining bolt.
- Use your gloved hand to twist the coil gently, then pull it straight upward.
- Inspect the rubber boot for cracking, oil, or burn marks. Oil inside the well can indicate a leaking valve-cover tube seal.
Step 4: Clean the spark plug well
- Put on the safety glasses before using compressed air.
- Use the compressed-air blow gun at no more than 90 psi to clear dirt from the plug well.
- Keep your face away from the well while blowing it clean.
- Use the flashlight to confirm that no loose debris remains.
Step 5: Remove the old spark plug
- Place the 5/8-inch thin-wall spark plug socket on the 6-inch extension and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet.
- Lower the socket straight into the well until it fully seats on the plug.
- Turn counterclockwise slowly until the plug is completely loose, then lift it out with the socket.
- If the plug binds after initially loosening, stop and turn it slightly clockwise before trying again.
Step 6: Inspect the old spark plug
- Use the flashlight to inspect the firing end. Light tan or gray deposits are generally normal.
- Wet fuel, heavy black deposits, oil, or a damaged electrode may indicate another engine problem.
- Keep each removed plug in cylinder order if you need to compare their condition later.
Step 7: Inspect the new spark plug
- Use the spark plug wire gap gauge only to verify an approximately 1.1mm (0.043-inch) gap.
- Do not force a flat blade between the iridium electrodes and do not bend the fine center electrode.
- Use your gloved fingers to confirm the sealing washer is present and the threads are clean and dry.
Step 8: Start the new spark plug by hand
- Insert the new plug into the 5/8-inch thin-wall spark plug socket and attach only the 6-inch extension.
- Lower it straight into the well and turn the extension clockwise by hand for several complete turns.
- If it does not turn easily, remove it and start again. This prevents cross-threading, which means cutting the plug into the threads at the wrong angle.
- A properly started plug turns easily by hand.
Step 9: Tighten the new spark plug
- Attach the 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench to the extension and spark plug socket.
- Tighten the plug smoothly to 19.6 Nm (14 ft-lbs).
- Stop immediately when the torque wrench clicks. Do not tighten it again.
- Do not put anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads.
Step 10: Reinstall the ignition coil
- Use your gloved hand to push the ignition coil straight over the new spark plug until fully seated.
- Start the coil bolt by hand, then tighten it with the 10mm socket and 1/4-inch-drive torque wrench to 7 Nm (62 in-lbs).
- Use your gloved fingers to push the electrical connector onto the coil until its lock clicks.
- Pull lightly on the connector body to verify it is secured.
Step 11: Replace the remaining three plugs
- Repeat Steps 2 through 10 for each remaining cylinder using the same listed tools.
- Use the compressed-air blow gun to clean every plug well before removing its plug.
- Use the torque wrenches to apply 19.6 Nm (14 ft-lbs) to every spark plug and 7 Nm (62 in-lbs) to every coil bolt.
Step 12: Reinstall the engine cover
- Use the flashlight to verify that all four electrical connectors are attached and no tools remain in the engine compartment.
- Use your gloved hands to align the engine-cover mounting points with their rubber grommets.
- Press the cover straight downward over each mounting point until fully seated.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and let it idle for two to three minutes. It should run smoothly without shaking.
- 👂 Listen for snapping or ticking that could indicate a loose plug or improperly seated ignition coil.
- 🚨 Confirm the malfunction indicator light remains off. If it flashes, shut off the engine immediately and recheck all four coil connectors.
- 🛣️ Take a short, gentle test drive and confirm smooth acceleration.
- 📅 Nissan’s normal-maintenance replacement interval for the original iridium plugs is approximately 105,000 miles, unless operating conditions or plug condition require earlier service.
- 🔍 No scan-tool reset, plug programming, or idle relearn is normally required.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹7,000-₹13,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹3,500-₹7,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹3,500-₹6,000 by doing it yourself!
Panipat labor and imported iridium-plug prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.7-1.0 hour.
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