How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2019 Ford Ranger
Step-by-step front strut and rear shock guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019
How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2019 Ford Ranger
Step-by-step front strut and rear shock guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019
🔧 Ranger - Shock Absorber Replacement
Replacing the shock absorbers on your Ranger restores ride control, braking stability, and tire contact with the road. Your Ranger uses front struts/coilover-style shock assemblies and separate rear shock absorbers, so the front and rear procedures are different.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Ranger with jack stands before working underneath it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Suspension parts can shift suddenly when bolts are removed.
- ⚠️ The front strut assembly contains a compressed coil spring. A compressed spring stores dangerous energy and can cause serious injury if released incorrectly.
- ⚠️ For a beginner, replace the front shock/strut as a complete loaded assembly if available. Do not disassemble the spring from the strut without a proper spring compressor and experience.
- ⚠️ Do not let brake hoses, ABS wiring, or 4WD axle shafts hang or stretch while the suspension is apart.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
- ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after front strut/shock assembly replacement.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 21mm box-end wrench
- 18mm box-end wrench
- 15mm box-end wrench
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
- Torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs)
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Rubber mallet
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front loaded strut/shock assemblies - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
- Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
- Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6 if replacing single-use hardware
- Front lower strut mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 2 sets if corroded or damaged
- Rear shock mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 4 sets if corroded or damaged
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Ranger on a flat, solid surface.
- Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks in front of and behind the tires that stay on the ground.
- Spray penetrating oil on the front lower strut bolts and rear shock bolts at least 10 minutes before removal.
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of the front lower strut bolt washers before removal. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
- A loaded strut assembly means the spring, upper mount, and shock are already assembled as one safer bolt-in unit.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each wheel lug nut about half a turn.
- Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loose first, lift second.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Truck
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front center crossmember to raise the front of your Ranger.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
- Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
- Use the floor jack to lightly support the lower control arm on the side you are working on.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove the wheel by hand and set it flat away from your work area.
Step 4: Release Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any brake hose or ABS wire bracket attached to the strut area.
- Use a trim clip removal tool to release plastic wire clips if fitted.
- Move the hose and wire slightly aside without pulling or stretching them.
Step 5: Remove the Front Lower Strut Bolt
- Use a paint marker to mark the lower mounting position before loosening the fastener.
- Use an 18mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and an 18mm box-end wrench to loosen the lower strut bolt and nut.
- Support the lower control arm with the floor jack so the bolt is not under pressure.
- Remove the bolt and nut by hand once loose.
- If the bolt sticks, use a rubber mallet to tap it out gently.
Step 6: Remove the Front Upper Strut Nuts
- Open the hood by hand.
- Locate the three upper strut mounting nuts at the top of the strut tower.
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper mounting nuts.
- Keep one hand on the strut assembly as the last nut comes off.
- Do not remove the center nut on the strut shaft. That nut holds spring tension.
Step 7: Remove the Front Strut Assembly
- Use the floor jack to slightly lower the lower control arm if more room is needed.
- Use a pry bar 18-inch only if needed to gently guide the lower mount out.
- Pull the complete strut assembly out through the wheel opening by hand.
- Do not let the CV axle or brake hose stretch.
Step 8: Install the New Front Loaded Strut Assembly
- Place the new front loaded strut/shock assembly into the wheel opening by hand.
- Guide the upper studs through the strut tower holes.
- Install the upper mounting nuts by hand first.
- Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the upper nuts.
- Do not fully torque them until the lower bolt is installed.
Step 9: Install the Front Lower Strut Bolt
- Use the floor jack under the lower control arm to raise or lower it until the lower strut holes line up.
- Use the pry bar 18-inch gently if needed to align the mount.
- Insert the lower bolt by hand.
- Install the nut by hand.
- Use an 18mm socket, 18mm box-end wrench, and torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs) to tighten the lower fastener to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Torque the Front Upper Strut Nuts
- Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the three upper strut mounting nuts evenly.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
- Do not tighten the center shaft nut.
Step 11: Reattach Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets
- Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the brake hose or ABS wire bracket bolts.
- Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
- Use your hand to press any plastic wire clips back into place.
Step 12: Repeat the Front Procedure on the Other Side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 11 on the opposite front side.
- Use the same tools and torque values.
- Replace front strut/shock assemblies in pairs so your Ranger handles evenly.
Step 13: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Lift each wheel onto the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Use the floor jack to raise the truck slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the front tires to the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs) to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Raise and Support the Rear of the Truck
- Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
- Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear axle center section to raise the rear of your Ranger.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
- Keep the floor jack lightly supporting the rear axle. This prevents the axle from dropping when the shock is removed.
Step 15: Remove One Rear Shock Absorber
- Work on one rear shock at a time so the axle stays controlled.
- Use a 15mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and a 15mm box-end wrench to loosen the lower shock bolt and nut.
- Use the same 15mm socket and 15mm box-end wrench to loosen the upper shock bolt and nut.
- Remove the lower bolt by hand.
- Remove the upper bolt by hand while holding the shock.
- Pull the shock absorber out by hand.
Step 16: Install the New Rear Shock Absorber
- Position the new rear shock absorber by hand with the body and rod oriented the same way as the original.
- Install the upper bolt and nut by hand first.
- Install the lower bolt and nut by hand.
- Use the floor jack to slightly raise or lower the axle until the bolt holes line up without forcing them.
- Use a 15mm socket, 15mm box-end wrench, and torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs) to tighten the upper and lower shock fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
Step 17: Repeat the Rear Procedure on the Other Side
- Repeat Steps 15 and 16 on the opposite rear shock.
- Use the same tools and torque values.
- Replace rear shocks in pairs so braking and handling stay balanced.
Step 18: Lower the Rear and Final-Torque Lug Nuts if Removed
- If you removed the rear wheels, reinstall them by hand and snug the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet.
- Use the floor jack to raise the rear slightly and remove the jack stands.
- Lower your Ranger to the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs) to tighten rear lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 19: Bounce Check and Visual Inspection
- Push down firmly by hand on each corner of your Ranger and release.
- The body should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
- Use safety glasses and inspect all four shock/strut mounts for seated bushings, straight bolts, and pinched wires or hoses.
✅ After Repair
- Drive slowly around the block and listen for clunks, rattles, or rubbing noises.
- Recheck the front and rear shock fasteners after the first short drive if you have safe access.
- Get a professional wheel alignment after replacing the front strut/shock assemblies.
- Expect slightly firmer ride feel at first while the new dampers settle in.
- If the steering wheel is off-center or your Ranger pulls to one side, do not delay the alignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)
You Save: $550-$750 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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