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2019 Ford Ranger
2019 Ford Ranger

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In This Video, We'll Show You How To Replace The Front And Rear Shocks On Your Ford Ranger.

In This Video, We'll Show You How To Replace The Front And Rear Shocks On Your Ford Ranger.

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

3 Ton
3 Ton
Floor Jack
3 Ton
3 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
18mm
18mm
Socket
or (11/16")
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How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2019 Ford Ranger

Step-by-step front strut and rear shock guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019

How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2019 Ford Ranger

Step-by-step front strut and rear shock guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Ranger - Shock Absorber Replacement

Replacing the shock absorbers on your Ranger restores ride control, braking stability, and tire contact with the road. Your Ranger uses front struts/coilover-style shock assemblies and separate rear shock absorbers, so the front and rear procedures are different.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Ranger with jack stands before working underneath it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and gloves. Suspension parts can shift suddenly when bolts are removed.
  • ⚠️ The front strut assembly contains a compressed coil spring. A compressed spring stores dangerous energy and can cause serious injury if released incorrectly.
  • ⚠️ For a beginner, replace the front shock/strut as a complete loaded assembly if available. Do not disassemble the spring from the strut without a proper spring compressor and experience.
  • ⚠️ Do not let brake hoses, ABS wiring, or 4WD axle shafts hang or stretch while the suspension is apart.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
  • ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after front strut/shock assembly replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 21mm socket
  • 18mm socket
  • 15mm socket
  • 13mm socket
  • 10mm socket
  • 21mm box-end wrench
  • 18mm box-end wrench
  • 15mm box-end wrench
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch drive ratchet
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
  • Torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs)
  • Trim clip removal tool
  • Pry bar 18-inch
  • Rubber mallet
  • Paint marker
  • Penetrating oil
  • Safety glasses
  • Mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Front loaded strut/shock assemblies - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
  • Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2, replace in pairs
  • Front strut upper mounting nuts - Qty: 6 if replacing single-use hardware
  • Front lower strut mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 2 sets if corroded or damaged
  • Rear shock mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 4 sets if corroded or damaged

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Ranger on a flat, solid surface.
  • Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
  • Place wheel chocks in front of and behind the tires that stay on the ground.
  • Spray penetrating oil on the front lower strut bolts and rear shock bolts at least 10 minutes before removal.
  • Use a paint marker to mark the position of the front lower strut bolt washers before removal. This helps keep alignment close enough to drive carefully to an alignment shop.
  • A loaded strut assembly means the spring, upper mount, and shock are already assembled as one safer bolt-in unit.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Lug Nuts

  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each wheel lug nut about half a turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Loose first, lift second.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Front of the Truck

  • Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front center crossmember to raise the front of your Ranger.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
  • Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
  • Use the floor jack to lightly support the lower control arm on the side you are working on.

Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels

  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove the wheel by hand and set it flat away from your work area.

Step 4: Release Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove any brake hose or ABS wire bracket attached to the strut area.
  • Use a trim clip removal tool to release plastic wire clips if fitted.
  • Move the hose and wire slightly aside without pulling or stretching them.

Step 5: Remove the Front Lower Strut Bolt

  • Use a paint marker to mark the lower mounting position before loosening the fastener.
  • Use an 18mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and an 18mm box-end wrench to loosen the lower strut bolt and nut.
  • Support the lower control arm with the floor jack so the bolt is not under pressure.
  • Remove the bolt and nut by hand once loose.
  • If the bolt sticks, use a rubber mallet to tap it out gently.

Step 6: Remove the Front Upper Strut Nuts

  • Open the hood by hand.
  • Locate the three upper strut mounting nuts at the top of the strut tower.
  • Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the three upper mounting nuts.
  • Keep one hand on the strut assembly as the last nut comes off.
  • Do not remove the center nut on the strut shaft. That nut holds spring tension.

Step 7: Remove the Front Strut Assembly

  • Use the floor jack to slightly lower the lower control arm if more room is needed.
  • Use a pry bar 18-inch only if needed to gently guide the lower mount out.
  • Pull the complete strut assembly out through the wheel opening by hand.
  • Do not let the CV axle or brake hose stretch.

Step 8: Install the New Front Loaded Strut Assembly

  • Place the new front loaded strut/shock assembly into the wheel opening by hand.
  • Guide the upper studs through the strut tower holes.
  • Install the upper mounting nuts by hand first.
  • Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the upper nuts.
  • Do not fully torque them until the lower bolt is installed.

Step 9: Install the Front Lower Strut Bolt

  • Use the floor jack under the lower control arm to raise or lower it until the lower strut holes line up.
  • Use the pry bar 18-inch gently if needed to align the mount.
  • Insert the lower bolt by hand.
  • Install the nut by hand.
  • Use an 18mm socket, 18mm box-end wrench, and torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs) to tighten the lower fastener to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Torque the Front Upper Strut Nuts

  • Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs) to tighten the three upper strut mounting nuts evenly.
  • Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
  • Do not tighten the center shaft nut.

Step 11: Reattach Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

  • Use a 10mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to reinstall the brake hose or ABS wire bracket bolts.
  • Torque to 10 Nm (89 in-lbs).
  • Use your hand to press any plastic wire clips back into place.

Step 12: Repeat the Front Procedure on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 11 on the opposite front side.
  • Use the same tools and torque values.
  • Replace front strut/shock assemblies in pairs so your Ranger handles evenly.

Step 13: Reinstall the Front Wheels

  • Lift each wheel onto the hub by hand.
  • Install the lug nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Use the floor jack to raise the truck slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower the front tires to the ground.
  • Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs) to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Raise and Support the Rear of the Truck

  • Place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
  • Use the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear axle center section to raise the rear of your Ranger.
  • Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the frame rails.
  • Keep the floor jack lightly supporting the rear axle. This prevents the axle from dropping when the shock is removed.

Step 15: Remove One Rear Shock Absorber

  • Work on one rear shock at a time so the axle stays controlled.
  • Use a 15mm socket with a 1/2-inch drive breaker bar and a 15mm box-end wrench to loosen the lower shock bolt and nut.
  • Use the same 15mm socket and 15mm box-end wrench to loosen the upper shock bolt and nut.
  • Remove the lower bolt by hand.
  • Remove the upper bolt by hand while holding the shock.
  • Pull the shock absorber out by hand.

Step 16: Install the New Rear Shock Absorber

  • Position the new rear shock absorber by hand with the body and rod oriented the same way as the original.
  • Install the upper bolt and nut by hand first.
  • Install the lower bolt and nut by hand.
  • Use the floor jack to slightly raise or lower the axle until the bolt holes line up without forcing them.
  • Use a 15mm socket, 15mm box-end wrench, and torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs) to tighten the upper and lower shock fasteners to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Repeat the Rear Procedure on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 15 and 16 on the opposite rear shock.
  • Use the same tools and torque values.
  • Replace rear shocks in pairs so braking and handling stay balanced.

Step 18: Lower the Rear and Final-Torque Lug Nuts if Removed

  • If you removed the rear wheels, reinstall them by hand and snug the lug nuts with a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive ratchet.
  • Use the floor jack to raise the rear slightly and remove the jack stands.
  • Lower your Ranger to the ground.
  • Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs) to tighten rear lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 19: Bounce Check and Visual Inspection

  • Push down firmly by hand on each corner of your Ranger and release.
  • The body should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
  • Use safety glasses and inspect all four shock/strut mounts for seated bushings, straight bolts, and pinched wires or hoses.

✅ After Repair

  • Drive slowly around the block and listen for clunks, rattles, or rubbing noises.
  • Recheck the front and rear shock fasteners after the first short drive if you have safe access.
  • Get a professional wheel alignment after replacing the front strut/shock assemblies.
  • Expect slightly firmer ride feel at first while the new dampers settle in.
  • If the steering wheel is off-center or your Ranger pulls to one side, do not delay the alignment.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.


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