How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma (Trim: SR5)
Step-by-step front and rear shock guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2016-2023 Toyota Tacoma (Trim: SR5)
Step-by-step front and rear shock guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2021, 2022, 2023
🔧 Tacoma - Shock Absorber Replacement
This repair replaces the front and rear shock absorbers on your Tacoma. Worn shocks can cause bouncing, nose-diving when braking, uneven tire wear, and poor ride control.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Tacoma with jack stands before working underneath it. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ The front shock is part of the coilover strut assembly. The coil spring is under high tension and can cause serious injury if handled incorrectly.
- ⚠️ Do not disassemble the front coil spring unless you have a proper wall-mounted or professional-grade spring compressor.
- ⚠️ For a beginner, replace the complete front loaded strut assembly if available, or have a shop transfer the spring onto the new shock.
- ⚠️ Rear shocks are separate from the springs and are much simpler to replace.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
- Ratchet 1/2-inch drive
- Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
- 21mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 14mm socket
- 12mm socket
- 19mm wrench
- 17mm wrench
- 14mm wrench
- 12mm wrench
- 6mm hex key socket
- Trim clip removal tool
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Rubber mallet
- Needle-nose pliers
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front shock absorber or loaded front strut assembly - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2
- Front shock mounting hardware kit - Qty: 2
- Rear shock mounting hardware kit - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- 📋 Park your Tacoma on level ground and set the parking brake.
- 📋 Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels before lifting the front, and in front of the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- 📋 Loosen the wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle. Do not remove them yet.
- 📋 Spray penetrating oil on all shock mounting nuts and bolts. Let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
- 📋 A loaded strut assembly means the shock, spring, upper mount, and hardware are already assembled. This is much safer for a beginner.
- 📋 If using bare front shocks only, do not remove the coil spring at home unless you have the correct spring compressor and experience.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each lug nut about half a turn.
- Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
- Do not remove the nuts yet.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Front
- Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front crossmember to raise the front of your Tacoma.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the front frame rails.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Use the floor jack lightly under the lower control arm as a support. The lower control arm is the suspension arm that holds the bottom of the wheel assembly.
Step 3: Remove the Front Wheels
- Use a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the lug nuts.
- Remove both front wheels and place them flat under the frame as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Remove Front Brake Hose and Wire Brackets
- Use a 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the front shock assembly.
- Use a 12mm wrench if access is tight.
- Use a trim clip removal tool or needle-nose pliers to release any plastic wire clips attached to the shock assembly.
- Do not pull on the brake hose or ABS wheel-speed sensor wire. ABS is the anti-lock brake system.
Step 5: Mark the Front Lower Shock Position
- Use a paint marker to mark the lower shock bolt direction and washer position before removal.
- This helps you put the bolt back the same way.
- Photos help during reassembly.
Step 6: Remove the Front Lower Shock Bolt
- Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the lower shock bolt and nut.
- Use the floor jack under the lower control arm to slightly raise or lower the arm until the bolt slides out easily.
- If the bolt sticks, tap it gently with a rubber mallet.
- Do not hammer hard on the bolt threads.
Step 7: Remove the Front Upper Shock Mount Nuts
- Open the hood.
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the three upper shock mount nuts from the top of the shock tower.
- Do not remove the large center nut on the front strut assembly. That nut holds spring tension.
- Torque on installation: 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs)
Step 8: Remove the Front Shock Assembly
- Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully to guide the lower end of the assembly out of the lower control arm pocket.
- Lower the floor jack slightly if the control arm needs more room.
- Remove the front shock assembly from the wheel well.
- Repeat Steps 4-8 on the other front side.
Step 9: Install the New Front Shock Assembly
- Position the new loaded front strut assembly into the shock tower.
- Start the three upper nuts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 14mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the upper nuts to 64 Nm (47 ft-lbs).
- Guide the lower mount into place using a pry bar 18-inch only if needed.
Step 10: Install the Front Lower Shock Bolt
- Use the floor jack to raise or lower the lower control arm until the bolt hole lines up.
- Install the lower shock bolt by hand first.
- Use a 19mm socket, 19mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lower shock bolt to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
- Repeat Steps 9-10 on the other front side.
Step 11: Reattach Front Brake Hose and Wire Brackets
- Use a 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt.
- Tighten the bracket bolt snugly to 19 Nm (14 ft-lbs).
- Use needle-nose pliers to reinstall any plastic wire clips.
- Make sure the hose and wire do not rub the tire or suspension.
Step 12: Reinstall the Front Wheels
- Install the front wheels by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Raise your Tacoma slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Lift and Support the Rear
- Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels.
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear differential housing to raise the rear. The differential is the center gear housing between the rear wheels.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear frame rails.
- Keep the floor jack lightly supporting the rear axle so it does not drop when the shocks are removed.
Step 14: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to remove the rear lug nuts.
- Remove the rear wheels for better access.
Step 15: Remove the Rear Lower Shock Bolt
- Use a 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen and remove the lower rear shock bolt and nut.
- Use the floor jack to slightly raise or lower the axle if the bolt is tight.
- Tap the bolt gently with a rubber mallet if needed.
Step 16: Remove the Rear Upper Shock Nut
- Use a 17mm wrench on the upper shock nut.
- If the shock stem spins, hold the stem with a 6mm hex key socket while turning the nut with the 17mm wrench.
- Remove the upper washer and bushing. A bushing is a rubber cushion that reduces vibration.
- Remove the rear shock absorber.
Step 17: Install the New Rear Shock
- Install the new upper bushing and washer in the same order as the old parts.
- Guide the upper shock stem through the frame mount by hand.
- Start the upper nut by hand.
- Use a 17mm wrench and 6mm hex key socket if needed to tighten the upper nut until the rubber bushing slightly bulges.
- Do not crush the bushing flat.
Step 18: Install the Rear Lower Shock Bolt
- Line up the lower shock eye with the axle bracket by moving the axle slightly with the floor jack.
- Install the lower bolt by hand first.
- Use a 17mm socket, 17mm wrench, and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lower shock bolt to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs).
- Repeat Steps 15-18 on the other rear side.
Step 19: Reinstall the Rear Wheels
- Install the rear wheels by hand.
- Use a 21mm socket and ratchet 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Raise your Tacoma slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
Step 20: Bounce Check and Final Inspection
- Push down firmly on each corner of your Tacoma and release.
- The body should rise and settle quickly, not keep bouncing.
- Use a flashlight if available to check that all brake hoses, ABS wires, and shock mounts are secure.
- Listen for loose clunks during a short slow test drive.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Drive slowly around the block first and listen for knocking, rubbing, or clunking.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a 21mm socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
- ✅ If the front loaded struts were replaced, get a wheel alignment. Front suspension removal can affect steering angle and tire wear.
- ✅ If your Tacoma pulls, the steering wheel is off-center, or tires squeal, schedule alignment before normal driving.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $850-$1,500 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $300-$850 (parts only)
You Save: $500-$650 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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