How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2014-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL)
Step-by-step front strut and rear shock guide with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014
How to Replace Shock Absorbers on a 2014-2020 Ford F-150 (Trim: XL)
Step-by-step front strut and rear shock guide with tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2014
🔧 F-150 - Shock Absorber Replacement
This job replaces the rear shock absorbers and front shock/strut assemblies on your F-150. The rear shocks are beginner-friendly; the front assemblies are heavier and require careful lifting, but using complete loaded strut assemblies avoids compressing the coil springs.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Never work under your F-150 supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands.
- ⚠️ Front coil springs store a lot of energy. Do not disassemble the spring from the strut unless you have the correct professional spring compressor.
- ⚠️ For a first-time DIYer, use complete loaded front strut assemblies. A loaded strut is a preassembled shock, spring, and mount.
- ⚠️ Chock the wheels that stay on the ground so the truck cannot roll.
- ⚠️ Do not let the front knuckle hang by the brake hose or ABS wire.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
- Wheel chocks
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated to 250 ft-lbs
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive ratchet
- 21mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 21mm wrench
- 18mm wrench
- 15mm wrench
- 13mm wrench
- Pry bar 18-inch
- Rubber mallet
- Needle-nose pliers
- Paint marker
- Penetrating oil
- Mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Front loaded strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front lower strut mounting nuts - Qty: 4
- Front upper strut mounting nuts - Qty: 6
- Rear shock mounting bolts and nuts - Qty: 4 sets
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your F-150 on level, solid ground.
- Shift to Park and apply the parking brake.
- Chock the wheels that will stay on the ground.
- Loosen the wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
- Spray penetrating oil on the shock and strut fasteners 10-15 minutes before removal.
- Take a photo of each side before disassembly. This helps you remember how everything sits.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each lug nut about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
- Loosen before lifting.
Step 2: Lift and Support the Truck
- Use a floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the front or rear of your F-150.
- Place jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the frame rails.
- Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
- Shake the truck lightly by hand to confirm it is stable.
Step 3: Remove the Wheels
- Use a 21mm socket to remove the lug nuts fully.
- Remove the wheels and place them flat under the frame as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Replace the Rear Shock Absorbers
- Support the rear axle lightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum. Do not lift the truck off the jack stands.
- Use a 15mm socket and 15mm wrench to remove the lower rear shock bolt and nut.
- Use a 15mm socket and 15mm wrench to remove the upper rear shock bolt and nut.
- Remove the old rear shock absorber by hand.
- Install the new rear shock absorber in the same direction as the original.
- Start the upper and lower bolts by hand first so they do not cross-thread.
- Use a 15mm socket and 15mm wrench to snug the bolts.
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the rear upper shock bolt to Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).
- Use a torque wrench to tighten the rear lower shock bolt to Torque to 90 Nm (66 ft-lbs).
- Repeat the same steps on the other rear shock.
Step 5: Prepare the Front Strut Assembly Area
- Turn the steering wheel to give yourself more room on the side you are working on.
- Use a paint marker to mark the position of any brackets or clips you remove.
- Use needle-nose pliers to gently release any brake hose or ABS wire retaining clips attached near the strut.
- Do not pull on the ABS wire. The ABS wire is the small electrical wire going to the wheel-speed sensor.
Step 6: Disconnect the Front Sway Bar Link
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to remove the sway bar link nut from the control arm area if it blocks strut removal.
- The sway bar link connects the suspension to the anti-roll bar and may need to move for extra clearance.
- Move the link aside by hand.
Step 7: Remove the Front Lower Strut Nuts
- Support the lower control arm lightly with the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum.
- Use a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench to remove the two lower strut mounting nuts.
- If the bolts are tight, use the 1/2-inch drive breaker bar.
- Leave the lower bolts in place for now to help hold the strut.
Step 8: Remove the Front Upper Strut Nuts
- Open the hood.
- Locate the three upper strut mounting nuts at the top of the strut tower.
- Use a 13mm socket to remove the three upper strut nuts.
- Do not remove the large center nut on the strut assembly.
- Never remove the center nut.
Step 9: Remove the Front Strut Assembly
- Use a rubber mallet to tap the lower strut bolts out if needed.
- Use a pry bar 18-inch carefully to create space at the lower control arm.
- Lower the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum slightly under the control arm.
- Pull the complete strut assembly out through the wheel opening.
- Keep hands clear of pinch points between the control arm and strut.
Step 10: Install the New Front Loaded Strut Assembly
- Position the new loaded strut assembly in the same orientation as the old one.
- Guide the upper studs into the strut tower by hand.
- Install the three upper strut nuts by hand first.
- Use a 13mm socket to snug the upper nuts, but do not fully torque them yet.
- Align the lower strut mount with the lower control arm.
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to raise or lower the control arm until the holes line up.
- Slide the lower bolts through by hand.
- Install new lower strut mounting nuts by hand.
Step 11: Torque the Front Strut Fasteners
- Use a 13mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the three upper strut nuts to Torque to 55 Nm (41 ft-lbs).
- Use a 21mm socket, 21mm wrench, and torque wrench to tighten the lower strut mounting nuts to Torque to 350 Nm (258 ft-lbs).
- If your torque wrench does not reach 258 ft-lbs, have a shop final-torque the lower strut fasteners before driving normally.
Step 12: Reconnect the Front Sway Bar Link and Clips
- Use an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench to reinstall the sway bar link nut.
- Tighten the sway bar link nut to Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
- Use needle-nose pliers to reinstall any brake hose or ABS wire clips.
- Make sure no wire or hose is stretched, twisted, or rubbing the tire.
Step 13: Repeat on the Other Front Side
- Repeat Steps 5 through 12 on the other front strut assembly.
- Replace front strut assemblies in pairs so the truck handles evenly.
Step 14: Reinstall the Wheels
- Lift each wheel onto the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use a 21mm socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- A star pattern means tightening across the wheel, not around in a circle.
Step 15: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the truck slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
- Lower your F-150 fully to the ground.
- Use a 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce each corner of your F-150 by hand. It should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
- ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and check that no brake hose or ABS wire is pulling.
- ✅ Test drive slowly first. Listen for clunks, rattles, or rubbing noises.
- ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
- ✅ Get a wheel alignment after replacing front strut assemblies. This helps prevent tire wear and steering pull.
- ✅ If the steering wheel is off-center or the truck pulls, do not delay the alignment.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$1,700 for front and rear shock/strut replacement
DIY Cost: $350-$900 for parts only
You Save: $550-$800 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.











