🔧 Outback - Shock Absorber Replacement

This job replaces the shock/strut assemblies that control bouncing and tire contact with the road. On your Outback, the front uses strut assemblies and the rear uses separate shock absorbers with coil springs mounted independently.

Assumption: This guide covers all four corners. If you are only replacing one end, follow the matching front or rear section.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 4-6 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Support your Outback with jack stands only. Never work under a vehicle held up by a jack.
• ⚠️ Replace shocks/struts in pairs: both front, both rear, or all four.
• ⚠️ Do not loosen the large center nut on a front strut unless the spring is safely compressed. The spring is under high pressure.
• ⚠️ If using complete front strut assemblies, no spring compressor is needed. This is safer for beginners.
• ⚠️ Mark the front strut-to-knuckle position before removal to help preserve alignment.
• ⚠️ A wheel alignment is required after front strut replacement.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 12mm socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 19mm socket
• 21mm socket
• 22mm socket
• 12mm wrench
• 14mm wrench
• 17mm wrench
• 19mm wrench
• 22mm wrench
• Flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Paint marker
• Rubber mallet
• Penetrating oil
• Spring compressor set (specialty)

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Front complete strut assemblies - Left: 1, Right: 1
• Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2
• Front strut mounting nuts - Qty: 6
• Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4 sets
• Rear shock mounting nuts and bolts - Qty: 4 sets
• Rear upper shock mount bushings - Qty: 2 sets

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Outback on level ground and set the parking brake.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks behind the wheels that stay on the ground.
• 🛞 Loosen the wheel lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• 🔎 Spray penetrating oil on the lower strut bolts, rear shock bolts, and sway bar link nuts.
• 📌 A spring compressor squeezes the coil spring so it cannot release suddenly. For a first-time DIYer, complete front strut assemblies are strongly recommended instead.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Wheel Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each lug nut about 1/2 turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Vehicle

• Use a floor jack to lift the front of your Outback at the front center jacking point.
• Place jack stands under the front side pinch welds or approved support points.
• Repeat for the rear if replacing all four shocks.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working.

Step 3: Remove the Wheels

• Use a 19mm socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove the wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Mark the Front Strut Position

• Use a paint marker to mark around the front strut where it bolts to the steering knuckle.
• The steering knuckle is the heavy metal part that holds the wheel hub and turns with the steering.
• This mark helps keep the alignment close enough to drive to an alignment shop.

Step 5: Disconnect the Front Brake Hose and ABS Wire Brackets

• Use a 12mm socket or 12mm wrench to remove the brake hose bracket bolt from the strut.
• Use a flathead screwdriver or needle-nose pliers to release the ABS wire clip from the strut bracket.
• Do not pull on the brake hose or ABS wire.

Step 6: Remove the Front Sway Bar Link from the Strut

• Use a 17mm wrench and 17mm socket to remove the sway bar link nut from the strut bracket.
• The sway bar link is a small vertical link that helps reduce body roll in turns.
• If the stud spins, hold the stud with the correct wrench while turning the nut with the 17mm wrench.

Step 7: Remove the Front Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts

• Support the steering knuckle with the floor jack so it does not drop suddenly.
• Use a 19mm socket, 22mm socket, 19mm wrench, or 22mm wrench as needed to remove the two large lower strut bolts and nuts.
• Use a rubber mallet to tap the bolts out if they are stuck.
• Do not let the axle shaft pull outward sharply.

Step 8: Remove the Front Upper Strut Nuts

• Open the hood.
• Use a 14mm socket to remove the three upper strut mount nuts.
• Hold the strut with one hand while removing the last nut so it does not fall.
• Do not remove the large center nut on the strut mount.

Step 9: Install the New Front Strut Assembly

• Guide the new complete front strut assembly into the strut tower by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket to install the three upper strut mount nuts finger-tight.
• Align the lower strut bracket with the steering knuckle using your paint marks.
• Use a 19mm socket, 22mm socket, 19mm wrench, or 22mm wrench to install the lower bolts and nuts.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the front strut-to-knuckle nuts to Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs).
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten the upper strut mount nuts to Torque to 20 Nm (15 ft-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect the Front Sway Bar Link, Brake Hose, and ABS Wire

• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to install the sway bar link nut.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the sway bar link nut to Torque to 45 Nm (33 ft-lbs).
• Use a 12mm socket to reinstall the brake hose bracket bolt.
• Use a 3/8-inch drive ratchet and 12mm socket to snug the bracket bolt securely.
• Use needle-nose pliers to clip the ABS wire back into its bracket.

Step 11: Repeat the Front Procedure on the Other Side

• Use the same tools and steps on the opposite front strut.
• Always replace front struts in pairs.

Step 12: Access the Rear Upper Shock Mounts

• Open the rear hatch.
• Use a flathead screwdriver to carefully lift the small trim covers near the rear shock tower area if equipped.
• Use a 14mm socket to loosen, but not fully remove, the rear upper shock mount nut.

Step 13: Remove the Rear Lower Shock Bolt

• Support the rear suspension arm with the floor jack.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the lower shock bolt and nut.
• Use a rubber mallet to tap the bolt out if needed.

Step 14: Remove the Rear Shock Absorber

• Use a 14mm socket to remove the upper shock mount nut fully.
• Remove the rear shock absorber from the vehicle by hand.
• Keep note of the bushing and washer order if reusing any hardware.

Step 15: Install the New Rear Shock Absorber

• Install the new upper bushings and washers on the rear shock in the same order as removed.
• Guide the shock into the upper mount by hand.
• Use a 14mm socket to install the upper nut finger-tight.
• Use the floor jack to raise the suspension arm until the lower shock eye lines up with the mount.
• Use a 17mm socket and 17mm wrench to install the lower shock bolt and nut.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the rear lower shock bolt to Torque to 80 Nm (59 ft-lbs).
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten the rear upper shock nut to Torque to 30 Nm (22 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Repeat the Rear Procedure on the Other Side

• Use the same tools and steps on the opposite rear shock absorber.
• Always replace rear shocks in pairs.

Step 17: Reinstall the Wheels

• Place each wheel back on the hub by hand.
• Use a 19mm socket to install the lug nuts finger-tight in a star pattern.
• The star pattern means tightening across the wheel, not around in a circle.

Step 18: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift your Outback slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle slowly.
• Use a 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten the lug nuts to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
• Recheck lug torque after driving.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Bounce each corner of your Outback by hand. It should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
• ✅ Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock and listen for rubbing or clunks.
• ✅ Take a slow test drive first. Listen for knocks, rattles, or pulling.
• ✅ Get a professional wheel alignment after replacing the front struts.
• ✅ Recheck all visible mounting nuts and bolts after the first short drive.
• ✅ Re-torque the wheel lug nuts to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs) after 50-100 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $900-$1,600 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $350-$850 (parts only)

You Save: $550-$750 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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