🔧 Kicks - Rear Window Regulator Replacement

This repair replaces a failed rear door window regulator, which is the scissor/cable lift mechanism that moves the glass up and down inside the door. On your Kicks, the rear door regulator is serviced from behind the interior door trim panel and usually requires supporting the glass while the regulator is removed.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours per door

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging door electrical connectors to reduce the chance of short circuits.
• ⚠️ Wear gloves because the inside of the door shell has sharp stamped-metal edges.
• ⚠️ Support the window glass before removing the regulator bolts. The glass can drop suddenly and break.
• ⚠️ Do not slam the door while the trim panel or regulator is removed.
• ⚠️ Keep fingers away from the regulator tracks and cable drum when testing the motor.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 10mm socket
• Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
• 6-inch extension 3/8-inch drive
• Phillips #2 screwdriver
• Plastic trim removal tool set
• Small flathead screwdriver
• Needle-nose pliers
• Painter’s tape 2-inch wide
• Torque wrench inch-pound range
• Work light
• Safety glasses
• Mechanic gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 1 per door
• Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 if not included with regulator
• Rear door trim panel clips - Qty: 4-8 recommended
• Butyl sealing tape - Qty: 1 roll if moisture barrier seal is damaged

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Kicks on level ground and turn the ignition off.
• Lower or raise the rear window until the glass mounting bolts are accessible through the door openings. If the motor/regulator is dead, you may need to carefully move the glass by hand after loosening the regulator.
• Open the rear door fully and place a towel over the painted rocker area to prevent scratches.
• Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable. Wait at least 3 minutes before unplugging door connectors.
• A trim removal tool is a plastic pry tool used to pop panels loose without scratching the door trim.
• Butyl tape is a sticky black sealing strip used to reseal the plastic moisture barrier inside the door.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the Rear Door Switch Trim

• Use a plastic trim removal tool to gently lift the rear power window switch trim from the armrest area.
• Use a small flathead screwdriver to press the connector lock tab, then unplug the window switch connector.
• Set the switch trim somewhere safe so it does not get stepped on.
• Work slowly to avoid broken clips.

Step 2: Remove Hidden Door Panel Screws

• Use a small flathead screwdriver to remove any small screw cover caps in the pull handle or door handle pocket.
• Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove the exposed door trim screws.
• If equipped with 10mm fasteners in the pull handle area, use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to remove them.

Step 3: Release the Rear Door Trim Panel

• Start at the lower rear corner of the door panel.
• Use a plastic trim removal tool to pop the plastic trim clips loose from the metal door shell.
• Work around the bottom and sides of the panel until all clips are released.
• Lift the door panel straight upward to unhook it from the window ledge.
• Use needle-nose pliers or your fingers to disconnect the interior door handle cable if it blocks panel removal.
• Place the panel face-up on a clean towel.

Step 4: Peel Back the Moisture Barrier

• Use your hands and a plastic trim removal tool to carefully peel back the plastic moisture barrier.
• Do not tear it if possible. This barrier keeps rainwater away from the interior trim.
• If the butyl seal stretches, use a small flathead screwdriver to guide it away from the door shell.
• Leave the barrier attached at one edge if possible, like opening a flap.

Step 5: Support the Rear Window Glass

• Use painter’s tape 2-inch wide to tape the glass to the upper door frame.
• Run at least two long strips of tape from the outside glass, over the top of the door frame, and onto the inside glass.
• Press the tape firmly so the glass cannot slide down.
• Use extra tape if unsure.

Step 6: Separate the Glass from the Regulator

• Use a work light to find the glass clamp or mounting bolts through the door access holes.
• Use a 10mm socket, 6-inch extension, and ratchet wrench to loosen the glass-to-regulator bolts.
• Do not fully remove the bolts unless the replacement regulator design requires it.
• Carefully slide the glass upward by hand until it is fully seated in the top run channel.
• Add more painter’s tape 2-inch wide to hold the glass securely at the top.

Step 7: Unplug the Window Motor Connector

• Use a small flathead screwdriver to press the lock tab on the window motor electrical connector.
• Pull the connector straight off the motor.
• Do not pull on the wires. Pull only on the connector body.

Step 8: Remove the Old Regulator Assembly

• Use a 10mm socket, 6-inch extension, and ratchet wrench to remove the regulator mounting bolts from the door shell.
• Support the regulator with one hand as you remove the final bolt.
• Fold or rotate the regulator assembly as needed and remove it through the large door opening.
• If the motor is being reused, use a Phillips #2 screwdriver or 10mm socket to remove it from the old regulator, depending on fastener style.

Step 9: Install the New Regulator Assembly

• Guide the new rear window regulator assembly into the door through the access opening.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to start all regulator mounting bolts by hand first.
• Make sure the regulator sits flat against the door shell and is not pinching any wiring.
• Use a torque wrench inch-pound range and 10mm socket to tighten the regulator bolts to Torque to 8 Nm (71 in-lbs).
• If transferring the motor, install it on the regulator and tighten its fasteners to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).

Step 10: Reconnect the Motor and Attach the Glass

• Plug the window motor connector into the motor until the lock clicks.
• Temporarily reconnect the negative battery cable using a 10mm socket.
• Plug the rear window switch connector back in by hand.
• Turn the ignition on and use the window switch to move the regulator until the glass clamps align with the glass.
• Turn the ignition off before tightening the glass bolts.
• Carefully remove enough painter’s tape to lower the glass into the regulator clamps by hand.
• Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to tighten the glass-to-regulator bolts.
• Use a torque wrench inch-pound range and 10mm socket to tighten the glass bolts to Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).

Step 11: Test Window Operation Before Reassembly

• Make sure hands and tools are clear of the regulator.
• Turn the ignition on and use the rear window switch to run the glass fully down and fully up.
• Listen for binding, popping, or cable noise.
• If the glass tilts, stop and use a 10mm socket to slightly loosen the glass bolts, square the glass in the run channel, and retighten to Torque to 6 Nm (53 in-lbs).
• Turn the ignition off after testing.

Step 12: Reseal the Moisture Barrier

• Use your fingers to press the plastic moisture barrier back into the original butyl seal.
• If the seal no longer sticks, apply fresh butyl sealing tape around the edge of the barrier.
• Make sure all wiring passes through the correct openings and is not trapped behind the barrier.

Step 13: Reinstall the Door Trim Panel

• Reconnect the interior door handle cable by hand if it was removed.
• Hang the door panel over the top window ledge first.
• Line up the plastic clips with the holes in the door shell.
• Press around the edges of the panel by hand until each clip snaps into place.
• Use replacement rear door trim panel clips if any clips broke during removal.

Step 14: Reinstall Screws and Switch Trim

• Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to reinstall the door trim screws.
• If 10mm fasteners were removed, use a 10mm socket and torque wrench inch-pound range to tighten them snugly to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Plug in the rear window switch connector by hand.
• Press the switch trim down until it clicks into place.

Step 15: Reconnect the Battery

• Use a 10mm socket to reconnect the negative battery cable.
• Tighten the terminal nut securely to Torque to 5 Nm (44 in-lbs).
• Start the vehicle and confirm no warning lights remain on from the battery disconnect.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Run the repaired rear window fully up and down at least five times.
• ✅ Check that the glass seals evenly at the top and does not rattle inside the door.
• ✅ Test the rear window switch and the driver’s master switch.
• ✅ Spray a light amount of water on the outside glass area and check inside the door trim for water leaks.
• ✅ If the auto-up/down function needs relearning, hold the switch up for 3-5 seconds after the window reaches fully closed, then hold down for 3-5 seconds after it reaches fully open.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $300-$550 per rear door (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $80-$220 per rear door (parts only)

You Save: $220-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.

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