How to Replace Rear Window Regulators on a 2013 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step rear door regulator guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Rear Window Regulators on a 2013 Hyundai Tucson
Step-by-step rear door regulator guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017
š§ Tucson - Rear Window Regulator Replacement
Replacing a rear window regulator on your Tucson means removing the rear door panel, supporting the door glass, and replacing the lift mechanism inside the door. The regulator is the track-and-cable assembly that moves the glass up and down; many replacements include the motor already attached.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours per rear door
ā ļø Safety & Precautions
- ā ļø Support the rear door glass before loosening the regulator bolts. The glass can drop suddenly.
- ā ļø Disconnect the negative battery cable before unplugging door wiring connectors.
- ā ļø Wear gloves and safety glasses. The inside of the door has sharp metal edges.
- ā ļø Keep fingers out from under the glass while loosening or aligning the regulator.
- ā ļø Do not rely on tape alone for long periods. Tape is temporary support only.
š§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 10mm socket
- Ratchet wrench
- 10mm wrench
- Phillips #2 screwdriver
- Flat-blade trim tool
- Plastic door panel removal tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Pick tool
- Painterās tape
- Suction cup glass holder (specialty)
- Magnetic parts tray
- Work light
- Gloves
- Safety glasses
š© Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear window regulator assembly - Qty: 1 per rear door
- Rear window regulator motor - Qty: 1 if not included with regulator
- Rear door panel retaining clips - Qty: 6-10 per rear door
- Butyl sealing tape - Qty: 1 roll
š Before You Begin
- š Park your Tucson on level ground, shift to Park, and set the parking brake.
- šŖ If the rear window still moves, lower it until the glass mounting bolts are visible through the rear door access openings.
- š Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable after positioning the glass.
- š§° A regulator is the lifting mechanism inside the door. A trim tool is a plastic pry tool that helps remove panels without scratching them.
- š Rear regulators are side-specific. Left rear and right rear regulators are different.
- š§² Use a magnetic parts tray so screws do not fall into the door or onto the ground.
šØ Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Position the Rear Window Glass
- If the window still operates, use the rear window switch to lower the glass about halfway.
- Look through the door access openings and stop when the glass-to-regulator bolts are reachable.
- If the window is stuck, continue carefully and support the glass before removing any regulator hardware.
Step 2: Disconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to loosen the negative battery terminal nut.
- Remove the negative cable from the battery post.
- Move the cable aside so it cannot touch the battery post while you work.
Step 3: Remove Rear Door Screw Covers
- Use a flat-blade trim tool to open the screw cover behind the inside rear door handle.
- Use a flat-blade trim tool to open the screw cover inside the rear door pull handle pocket.
- Tip: Pry at the small notch.
Step 4: Remove Rear Door Panel Screws
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove the screw behind the inside rear door handle.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to remove the screw inside the rear door pull handle pocket.
- Place both screws in a magnetic parts tray.
Step 5: Release the Rear Door Panel Clips
- Use a plastic door panel removal tool at the lower edge of the rear door panel.
- Pry outward gently until the first clip pops loose.
- Continue around the bottom, rear, and front edges with the plastic door panel removal tool.
- Tip: Work slowly to avoid breaking clips.
Step 6: Lift Off the Rear Door Panel
- Use both hands to lift the rear door panel upward off the window ledge.
- Hold the panel close to the door so the wiring is not stretched.
- Use a pick tool to release the lock tab on the rear window switch connector.
- Unplug the electrical connector by hand.
- Use needle-nose pliers to release the inside handle cable if it remains attached to the panel.
Step 7: Peel Back the Moisture Barrier
- The moisture barrier is the plastic sheet sealed to the door that keeps rainwater out of the cabin.
- Use a flat-blade trim tool to slowly lift the black butyl adhesive from the rear door.
- Peel the barrier back only as far as needed to access the regulator and glass bolts.
- Use painterās tape to hold the plastic barrier out of the way.
- Tip: Keep the sticky seal clean.
Step 8: Support the Rear Door Glass
- Use painterās tape to tape the glass to the upper rear door frame with several long strips over the top of the door.
- Use a suction cup glass holder on the outside of the glass for extra support if available.
- Press the painterās tape firmly so it holds well.
- Keep one hand on the glass when loosening the glass clamp bolts.
Step 9: Loosen the Glass-to-Regulator Bolts
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to loosen the two rear glass clamp bolts through the door access openings.
- Do not fully remove the bolts unless the replacement regulator requires it.
- Slide the glass upward by hand to the fully closed position.
- Add more painterās tape over the top of the door to hold the glass up.
- Reinstall torque for the glass bolts is Torque to 7-9 Nm (62-80 in-lbs).
Step 10: Disconnect the Rear Window Motor Connector
- Use a pick tool to press the lock tab on the rear window motor connector.
- Pull the connector straight off by hand.
- Do not pull on the wires.
Step 11: Remove the Rear Regulator Mounting Bolts
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to remove the regulator rail mounting bolts.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to remove the motor mounting bolts if the motor is attached to the regulator.
- Support the regulator with one hand while removing the final bolt.
- Factory-style reinstall torque for regulator bolts is Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
Step 12: Remove the Old Rear Regulator
- Use a work light to see the wiring and edges inside the rear door.
- Guide the regulator assembly out through the large door access opening.
- Rotate the assembly by hand as needed so the motor and tracks clear the opening.
- Do not bend the door metal or force the regulator out.
Step 13: Transfer the Motor if Needed
- If the replacement regulator does not include a motor, use a Phillips #2 screwdriver or 10mm socket, depending on fastener style, to remove the motor from the old regulator.
- Install the motor onto the new regulator in the same orientation.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver or 10mm socket to tighten the motor fasteners evenly.
- Torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 in-lbs).
Step 14: Install the New Rear Regulator
- Guide the new regulator assembly into the rear door through the large access opening.
- Line up the regulator rail and motor mounting holes with the door holes.
- Start all bolts by hand first so the threads do not cross.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to tighten the regulator and motor mounting bolts.
- Torque to 8-10 Nm (71-89 in-lbs).
Step 15: Line Up the Regulator Clamps
- Plug the rear window motor connector in by hand until it clicks.
- Use a 10mm socket to temporarily reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Temporarily plug in the rear window switch connector by hand.
- Use the rear window switch to move the regulator clamps until they align with the glass mounting points.
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable again before tightening the glass bolts.
Step 16: Attach the Rear Door Glass
- Remove enough painterās tape to carefully lower the glass by hand into the regulator clamps.
- Make sure the glass sits squarely and evenly in both clamps.
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to tighten both rear glass clamp bolts.
- Torque to 7-9 Nm (62-80 in-lbs).
Step 17: Test the Rear Window Before Reassembly
- Use a 10mm socket to temporarily reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Plug the rear window switch connector in by hand.
- Run the rear window fully down and up while watching the glass movement.
- If the glass binds, stops crooked, or makes noise, stop and loosen the glass bolts with a 10mm socket, realign the glass, and retighten.
- Confirm the glass fully seats into the upper weatherstrip.
Step 18: Reinstall the Moisture Barrier
- Use a 10mm socket to disconnect the negative battery cable again before final panel installation.
- Press the moisture barrier back onto the rear door by hand.
- Use fresh butyl sealing tape by hand anywhere the original adhesive is missing, dirty, or torn.
- Seal the lower edge carefully to prevent water leaks into the cabin.
Step 19: Reconnect Rear Door Panel Wiring and Cable
- Reconnect the rear window switch connector by hand until it clicks.
- Reconnect any lock switch connector by hand until it clicks.
- Reconnect the inside door handle cable by hand.
- Use needle-nose pliers only to guide the cable end if needed.
Step 20: Reinstall the Rear Door Panel
- Set the top edge of the rear door panel over the window ledge by hand.
- Align the plastic clips with the holes in the rear door.
- Press around the panel edges by hand until every clip snaps into place.
- Replace any broken rear door panel retaining clips.
Step 21: Reinstall Rear Door Screws and Covers
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to reinstall the screw behind the inside rear door handle.
- Use a Phillips #2 screwdriver to reinstall the screw inside the rear door pull handle pocket.
- Snap both screw covers closed by hand.
- Do not overtighten because the screws thread into plastic.
Step 22: Reconnect the Battery
- Use a 10mm socket and ratchet wrench to reconnect the negative battery cable.
- Tighten the terminal until it cannot rotate by hand.
- Torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 in-lbs).
ā After Repair
- ā Test the repaired rear window from the rear door switch.
- ā Test the same rear window from the driver master switch.
- ā Make sure the rear window lock switch does not prevent normal testing by accident.
- ā Listen for grinding, popping, or cable noises.
- ā Check the bottom of the door panel after a rain or wash for signs of water leakage.
- ā Reset the clock and radio presets if they changed after battery disconnect.
š° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $300-$525 per rear door (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $65-$210 per rear door (parts only)
You Save: $235-$315 per rear door by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours per rear door.
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