How to Replace Rear Shocks and Front Struts on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Rear Shocks and Front Struts on a 2016 Chevrolet Traverse
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, torque specs, safety tips, and alignment notes for 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Traverse - Shock Absorber Replacement
On your Traverse, the rear uses shock absorbers, and the front uses strut assemblies (a strut is a shock + spring unit). Replacing worn shocks/struts restores ride control, reduces bouncing, and improves braking/handling.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 3-6 hours
Assumption: Stock suspension; replacing rear shocks and/or front struts.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the Traverse with jack stands—never rely on a floor jack.
- 🛑 If doing front struts: the coil spring stores energy; use a spring compressor or install complete strut assemblies to avoid spring transfer.
- 🛑 Keep hands clear of pinch points when lowering/raising the suspension.
- 🛑 After front strut work, a 4-wheel alignment is required.
- 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug wrench or 19mm socket
- Socket set: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm, 24mm
- Wrench set: 13mm, 15mm, 18mm, 21mm
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (10–250 ft-lbs range)
- Pry bar
- Rubber mallet
- Penetrating oil
- Paint marker
- Trim clip tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Spring compressor (specialty)
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear shock absorbers - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front complete strut assemblies - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Front strut mount nuts - Qty: 6
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts and nuts - Qty: 4
- Rear shock mounting bolts/nuts - Qty: 4
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels if lifting the front (and vice-versa).
- Loosen lug nuts with a 19mm socket before lifting.
- Spray shock/strut fasteners with penetrating oil and wait 5–10 minutes.
- If installing complete strut assemblies, you do not need to compress the spring. (A complete assembly comes pre-built.)
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and remove wheels
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift at the proper jacking point.
- Set the Traverse on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair).
- Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Rear shock removal (one side at a time)
- Support the rear suspension arm lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) so it doesn’t drop when the shock is removed.
- Remove the lower shock bolt using an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
- Remove the upper shock fastener(s) using a 15mm socket (some setups use nut/bolt; use the matching 15mm wrench as needed).
- Work the shock out by hand; use a pry bar gently if it’s stuck.
Step 3: Rear shock installation
- Install the new shock in place by hand, starting with the upper mount.
- Install the lower bolt while adjusting height with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to align holes.
- Tighten fasteners with a torque wrench (10–250 ft-lbs range):
- Rear lower shock bolt: Torque to 100 Nm (74 ft-lbs)
- Rear upper shock fastener(s): Torque to 50 Nm (37 ft-lbs)
- Tip: Tighten with suspension near ride height.
Step 4: Front strut removal (repeat per side)
- Unclip any strut/knuckle mounted wiring brackets (ABS/brake hose routing) using a trim clip tool or needle-nose pliers. Do not stretch the brake hose.
- Mark the strut-to-knuckle relationship with a paint marker for a close starting point before alignment.
- Remove the stabilizer (sway) link from the strut using an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
- Support the knuckle lightly with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the two strut-to-knuckle bolts using a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench. Use a breaker bar (1/2") if tight.
- Under the hood, remove the strut mount nuts using a 13mm socket while holding the strut from below.
- Remove the strut assembly from the wheel well.
Step 5: Front strut installation (complete strut assembly recommended)
- Position the new strut in the tower and hand-thread the top nuts using a 13mm socket.
- Align the strut to the knuckle and install the two lower bolts using a 21mm socket and 21mm wrench.
- Reconnect the sway bar link using an 18mm socket and 18mm wrench.
- Reattach all brackets/clips using a trim clip tool or needle-nose pliers.
- Torque fasteners with a torque wrench (10–250 ft-lbs range):
- Front strut mount nuts: Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs)
- Front strut-to-knuckle bolts: Torque to 155 Nm (114 ft-lbs)
- Front stabilizer link nut: Torque to 65 Nm (48 ft-lbs)
- Tip: If holes won’t line up, raise the knuckle slightly.
Step 6: Reinstall wheels and lower
- Install wheels and snug lug nuts using a 19mm socket.
- Lower the Traverse and torque lug nuts with a torque wrench (10–250 ft-lbs range): Torque to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks and confirm steering feels normal.
- Re-check for any loose brackets or rubbing brake hoses.
- If you replaced front struts, schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately.
- After 50–100 miles, re-check lug nut torque using a torque wrench.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $900-$2,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$900 (parts only)
You Save: $650-$1,300 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 3-6 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.


















