How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2013 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Rear Shock Absorbers on a 2013 Nissan Altima
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, safety tips, and cost savings for 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Altima - Rear Shock Absorber Replacement
On your Altima, the rear shock absorbers control bounce and help keep the tires planted over bumps. Replacing worn rear shocks is a good beginner-friendly suspension repair because the rear shocks are separate from the coil springs.
Assumption: This guide covers the rear shock absorbers, not the front strut assemblies.
Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a floor jack alone.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands; jack stands are fixed supports that safely hold the vehicle after lifting.
- ⚠️ Chock the front wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
- ⚠️ Rear shocks do not hold the coil spring in place on your Altima, but keep the rear suspension supported while removing shock bolts.
- ⚠️ Do not loosen or remove any front strut center nut; front struts contain a compressed spring and require a different procedure.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for rear shock replacement.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm lug nut socket
- Ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive
- Ratchet wrench 1/2-inch drive
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 14mm combination wrench
- 17mm combination wrench
- 18mm combination wrench
- Flathead screwdriver
- Trim clip removal tool
- Needle-nose pliers
- Penetrating oil spray
- Rubber mallet
- Paint marker
- Safety glasses
- Mechanic gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear shock absorbers - Qty: 2
- Rear upper shock mount nuts - Qty: 4
- Rear lower shock bolt and nut kit - Qty: 2
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Altima on level ground.
- Shift to Park and set the parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
- Open the trunk and remove items from the cargo area.
- Spray the rear lower shock bolts with penetrating oil and let it soak for 10-15 minutes.
- No infotainment menu, scan tool command, EPB service mode, ADAS calibration, or battery registration is required for this repair.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Lug Nuts
- Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each rear wheel lug nut about 1/2 turn.
- Do this while the tires are still on the ground so the wheels do not spin.
- Loosen only; do not remove yet.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear of the Vehicle
- Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the rear center jacking point or approved rear pinch-weld lift points.
- Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the approved rear side support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath.
Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet wrench 1/2-inch drive to remove the rear lug nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Access the Upper Shock Mounts in the Trunk
- Use a trim clip removal tool to remove the trunk liner clips near the left and right rear shock tower areas.
- Use a flathead screwdriver only if needed to gently start stubborn plastic clips.
- Pull the trunk side trim back enough to see the two upper shock mount nuts on each side.
- A shock tower is the body area where the top of the shock absorber bolts to the vehicle.
- Work slowly; trunk clips break easily.
Step 5: Support the Rear Suspension Arm
- Place the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) under the rear lower suspension arm near the shock.
- Raise the jack just enough to support the arm, not enough to lift the vehicle off the jack stand.
- This keeps the suspension from dropping suddenly when the shock is unbolted.
Step 6: Mark the Old Shock Position
- Use a paint marker to mark the orientation of the lower shock mount before removal.
- This helps you install the new shock in the same direction.
Step 7: Remove the Lower Shock Bolt
- Use a 17mm socket or 18mm socket with the breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the lower shock bolt, depending on the installed hardware size.
- Hold the nut with a matching 17mm combination wrench or 18mm combination wrench.
- If the bolt is stuck, spray more penetrating oil spray and let it soak for a few minutes.
- Use a rubber mallet to tap the bolt out if needed.
- Do not use a steel hammer directly on the threads.
Step 8: Remove the Upper Shock Mount Nuts
- From inside the trunk, use a 14mm socket with a ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to remove the two upper shock mount nuts.
- If the stud spins, hold it gently with needle-nose pliers only on the old shock hardware.
- Keep one hand on the shock from outside the wheel well so it does not drop.
Step 9: Remove the Old Shock Absorber
- Pull the old shock absorber down and out through the wheel well by hand.
- Compare the old shock and new shock side by side.
- Make sure the mounting ends, length, and bushings match before installing.
- A bushing is a rubber cushion that reduces noise and vibration at the mount.
Step 10: Install the New Shock Absorber
- Position the new shock absorber into the wheel well by hand.
- Guide the upper studs into the body holes first.
- Install the new upper shock mount nuts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet wrench 3/8-inch drive to snug the upper nuts.
- Do not fully torque the lower bolt yet.
Step 11: Install the Lower Shock Bolt
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to raise or lower the suspension arm slightly until the lower shock hole lines up.
- Slide the lower shock bolt through by hand.
- Install the nut by hand first.
- Use a 17mm socket or 18mm socket with a matching 17mm combination wrench or 18mm combination wrench to snug the bolt and nut.
- Hand-start bolts to protect threads.
Step 12: Torque the Shock Fasteners
- Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with the correct socket to tighten the lower shock bolt.
- Torque the rear lower shock bolt to 93 Nm (69 ft-lbs).
- Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a 14mm socket to tighten the upper shock mount nuts.
- Torque the rear upper shock mount nuts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Repeat on the Other Side
- Repeat Steps 5 through 12 on the opposite rear shock absorber.
- Always replace rear shocks in pairs so the suspension reacts evenly side to side.
Step 14: Reinstall the Trunk Trim
- Use your hands to reposition the trunk side trim panels.
- Use the trim clip removal tool to align clips if needed.
- Press the clips back into place until fully seated.
Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Wheels
- Place each rear wheel back onto the hub by hand.
- Install all lug nuts by hand first.
- Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet wrench 1/2-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the vehicle slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
- Lower the vehicle fully to the ground.
- Use the torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque the rear wheel lug nuts to 113 Nm (83 ft-lbs).
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Bounce each rear corner by hand; the body should settle quickly without repeated bouncing.
- ✅ Test drive slowly over a smooth road first, then over small bumps.
- ✅ Listen for clunks, rattles, or squeaks from the rear suspension.
- ✅ Recheck that the rear shock lower bolts and upper nuts are tight after the first short drive.
- ✅ Recheck rear lug nut torque after 25-50 miles.
- ✅ Wheel alignment is usually not required for rear shock-only replacement, unless abnormal tire wear or pulling is present.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $350-$650 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $120-$280 (parts only)
You Save: $230-$370 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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