How to Replace Rear Brakes and Rotors on a 2014 Chevrolet Equinox
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Rear Brakes and Rotors on a 2014 Chevrolet Equinox
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
🔧 Rear Brakes & Rotors - Replacement
Your rear pads and rotors wear together, so replacing both at the same time gives better braking and a smoother pedal. On your Equinox, the rear caliper and bracket must come off before the rotor can be removed.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on a level surface and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
- Brake parts and rotors can be hot after driving.
- Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
- Use brake cleaner only in a well-ventilated area.
- Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated for vehicle weight)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 18mm socket
- Torque wrench
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- C-clamp or disc brake caliper tool
- Bungee cord or mechanic's wire
- Flat blade screwdriver
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Torque angle gauge (optional)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Brake hardware kit - Qty: 1 set
- Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Loosen the rear lug nuts before lifting.
- Put the transmission in Park.
- Chock the front wheels securely.
- If your wheel uses locking lugs, remove them first.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the vehicle
- Use a floor jack to raise the rear of the vehicle at the proper lift point.
- Place jack stands under the rear support points and lower the vehicle onto them.
- Remove both rear wheels with a 19mm socket.
- Keep the lug nuts in a tray.
Step 2: Remove the caliper
- Use a 13mm socket to remove the caliper guide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord or mechanic's wire.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
Step 3: Remove the caliper bracket and rotor
- Use an 18mm socket and breaker bar to remove the caliper bracket bolts.
- Remove the bracket from the knuckle.
- If the rotor is stuck, use a flat blade screwdriver and tap around the hub face with a rubber mallet if needed.
- Remove any rotor retaining screw if equipped, using a flat blade screwdriver.
- Remove the rotor.
Step 4: Prepare the mounting surfaces
- Use a wire brush to clean rust from the hub face and caliper bracket contact points.
- Spray the new rotor with brake cleaner and wipe it dry.
- Clean hubs help prevent rotor wobble.
Step 5: Install the new rotor and bracket
- Install the new rotor on the hub.
- Reinstall the caliper bracket with the 18mm socket.
- Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 175 Nm (129 ft-lbs).
Step 6: Compress the caliper piston and install new pads
- Use a C-clamp or disc brake caliper tool to push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- Install the new pad hardware and apply a thin coat of brake lubricant where the pads contact the bracket.
- Install the new pads in the bracket.
- Reinstall the caliper over the pads.
- Torque the caliper guide pin bolts to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).
Step 7: Reinstall wheels and lower the vehicle
- Install the rear wheels by hand first.
- Lower the vehicle with the floor jack.
- Use a torque wrench and 19mm socket to tighten the lug nuts.
- Torque the lug nuts to 190 Nm (140 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Final pedal check
- Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal slowly until it feels firm.
- Check the brake fluid level under the hood and top off if needed.
✅ After Repair
- Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
- Listen for noise and feel for vibration.
- Verify the parking brake still holds the vehicle.
- For the first 200 miles, avoid hard stops to help the pads bed in.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$530 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.

















