How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Dodge Challenger
Step-by-step DIY rear brake job with tools/parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2018 Dodge Challenger
Step-by-step DIY rear brake job with tools/parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014
🔧 Challenger - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, take the caliper and pads off, swap the rear rotors, then reinstall everything and bed-in the new pads. This restores braking performance and prevents vibration or pulsation caused by worn pads or warped rotors.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🧯 Work on flat ground and chock the front wheels before lifting.
- 🧤 Never rely on a jack alone; support the rear with jack stands under solid lift points.
- 🔥 Brakes can be extremely hot; let them cool before touching.
- 🧵 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hook/strap.
- 🛑 Keep the parking brake fully released while removing/installing rear rotors.
- 🧼 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 22mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-200 ft-lbs range)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- Socket set (metric 10mm-21mm)
- Hex bit socket set (metric 6mm-10mm)
- Torx bit set (T30-T50)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Pry bar
- Needle-nose pliers
- Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
- Brake caliper piston spreader (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Dead blow hammer
- M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair, 25-40mm long)
- Brake cleaner spray
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Brake hardware kit (rear) - Qty: 1
- High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Medium-strength threadlocker - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Put the car in gear, turn the engine off, and release the parking brake.
- 🧱 Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
- 🔩 Slightly loosen rear lug nuts using a 22mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- 🧰 A “piston spreader” pushes the caliper pistons back in so the new thicker pads will fit.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift the rear and remove the wheels
- Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum), then set the car on jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the rear lug nuts with a 22mm socket and take both rear wheels off.
Step 2: Identify which rear caliper you have (Brembo vs sliding)
- If your rear caliper is a big fixed caliper with no slider pins, follow the Brembo (fixed caliper) notes below.
- If your rear caliper slides on pins (you’ll see pin/bolt heads on the back side), follow the Sliding caliper notes below.
Step 3: Remove the caliper (do not open the brake hose)
- Brembo (fixed caliper): Remove the two caliper mounting bolts using the correctly-fitting socket from your socket set (metric 10mm-21mm).
- Sliding caliper: Remove the two guide pin bolts using the correctly-fitting socket/bit from your socket set (metric 10mm-21mm) or hex bit socket set (metric 6mm-10mm).
- Carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Use a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire to hang it from the suspension so the hose isn’t strained.
Step 4: Remove pads and hardware
- Use a flathead screwdriver to help lift any anti-rattle spring/clips as needed.
- Pull the pads out by hand; use needle-nose pliers if they’re tight.
- Remove any pad abutment clips/hardware from the bracket (if equipped).
Step 5: Remove the caliper bracket (sliding caliper setups)
- Sliding caliper only: Remove the caliper bracket bolts using a breaker bar and the correctly-fitting socket from your socket set (metric 10mm-21mm).
- Set the bracket aside.
- Bracket bolts are usually tight.
Step 6: Remove the rear rotor (watch the parking brake shoes)
- If there is a rotor retaining screw, remove it with the correctly-fitting bit from your Torx bit set (T30-T50).
- If the rotor is stuck, thread two M8 x 1.25 bolts (pair, 25-40mm long) into the rotor “push-off” holes and tighten evenly with your 3/8" drive ratchet until the rotor pops loose.
- If needed, tap the rotor hat with a dead blow hammer to break rust free.
- Slide the rotor off. If it won’t come off, make sure the parking brake is fully released.
Step 7: Clean the hub and prep the new rotor
- Clean rust off the hub face using a wire brush.
- Spray the new rotor braking surfaces with brake cleaner spray and wipe clean (removes protective oil).
Step 8: Install the new rotor
- Place the new rotor onto the hub.
- If equipped, reinstall the rotor retaining screw using the correctly-fitting bit from your Torx bit set (T30-T50) (snug only).
Step 9: Retract the caliper pistons
- Place an old pad against the pistons (to spread force evenly).
- Use a brake caliper piston spreader (specialty) to slowly push the piston(s) back until fully seated.
- Check the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; if it rises near the top, stop and remove a small amount (do not spill fluid on paint).
Step 10: Reinstall bracket (sliding caliper setups) and install new pads
- Sliding caliper only: Reinstall the bracket using your socket set (metric 10mm-21mm) and a 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-200 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to 169 Nm (125 ft-lbs) for rear caliper bracket bolts.
- Install new pad hardware/clips (if included) by hand.
- Apply a thin film of high-temperature brake lubricant where pads touch the clips/bracket (do not get lube on pad friction material or rotor).
- Install the new pads into the bracket/caliper.
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper
- Slide the caliper back over the new pads/rotor.
- Brembo (fixed caliper): Install caliper mounting bolts using your socket set (metric 10mm-21mm) and torque with a 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-200 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to 156 Nm (115 ft-lbs) for rear Brembo caliper mounting bolts.
- Sliding caliper: Install guide pin bolts using your socket set (metric 10mm-21mm) or hex bit socket set (metric 6mm-10mm), then torque using a 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-100 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) for rear caliper guide pin bolts.
- If bolts are not pre-coated, apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker to clean threads.
Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall wheels and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Lower the car enough that the tires just touch the ground so they don’t spin.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-200 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to 176 Nm (130 ft-lbs) for lug nuts.
✅ After Repair
- 🦶 Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- 🧪 With the engine on, test brakes at low speed in a safe area.
- 🛑 Test the parking brake hold on a gentle incline.
- 🧯 Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
- 🛣️ Brake pad bed-in: make 8-10 moderate stops from ~40 mph to ~10 mph, driving a bit between stops to cool; then avoid hard stops until fully cooled.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $650-$1,200 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $250-$650 (parts only)
You Save: $400-$550 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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