How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2016 Kia Optima (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools/parts list, EPB service mode tips, and key torque specs for 2016
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2016 Kia Optima (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools/parts list, EPB service mode tips, and key torque specs for 2016
🔧 Optima - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the brakes. Doing this correctly prevents noise, vibration, and uneven braking.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Assumption: Torque specs listed match common Optima rear brake hardware; if your fasteners differ, use the spec for your exact rear caliper/bracket.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the car on jack stands before removing wheels.
- ⚠️ Hybrid safety: keep the car OFF, key/fob away, and do not work near orange high-voltage cables.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed (it can pop the piston out).
- ⚠️ If your Optima has an Electronic Parking Brake (EPB), it must be put in service mode before pushing pistons back.
- ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm socket
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-150 ft-lbs range)
- Ratchet 3/8" drive
- 14mm socket
- 17mm socket
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Bungee cord
- Brake piston rewind tool kit (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Micrometer or vernier caliper (specialty)
- Rubber mallet
- Phillips screwdriver #2
- Brake cleaner spray
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- OBD2 scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty)
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease (high-temp silicone) - Qty: 1
- Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Leave the cap sitting loose (don’t remove it fully). This helps fluid return when you compress pistons.
- If equipped with EPB: use your OBD2 scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) to retract the rear parking brake motors before touching the calipers. A scan tool puts the EPB in “service mode,” which safely backs the motors off.
- Break the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn before lifting the car.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Use wheel chocks at the front tires.
- Use a breaker bar 1/2" with a 19mm socket to loosen rear lug nuts.
- Lift the rear with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support with jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Remove the wheels using a 19mm socket.
Step 2: Remove the rear caliper
- Turn the steering wheel straight (rear work is easier with the car stable).
- Locate the two caliper slide bolts (usually the smaller bolts on the back of the caliper).
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8" drive to remove the caliper slide bolts.
- Lift the caliper off and hang it from the suspension with a bungee cord. Never let it hang by the hose.
Step 3: Remove the pads and hardware
- Remove the old pads by hand (use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if stuck).
- Remove the pad clips/abutment hardware from the bracket.
- Clean the bracket pad “tracks” with brake cleaner spray and a wire brush.
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket
- Use a 17mm socket and breaker bar 1/2" to remove the two caliper bracket bolts.
- Set the bracket aside.
- On reassembly: Torque to 98-118 Nm (72-87 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the old rotor
- If your rotor has a retaining screw, remove it with a Phillips screwdriver #2.
- Pull the rotor off the hub. If it’s stuck, tap the hat (center area) with a rubber mallet while spraying brake cleaner spray around the hub/rotor seam.
- Clean the hub face using brake cleaner spray and a wire brush. A clean hub helps prevent brake shake.
Step 6: Install the new rotor
- Clean both faces of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray (new rotors ship with protective oil).
- Install the rotor onto the hub. If it uses a retaining screw, reinstall it using a Phillips screwdriver #2.
Step 7: Service the slide pins (important for even wear)
- Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket by hand.
- Wipe them clean and apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (high-temp silicone).
- Reinstall the pins and make sure they move smoothly.
Step 8: Compress (retract) the rear caliper piston
- Rear calipers often require a “push-and-turn” retraction because the parking brake mechanism is inside the piston.
- Use a brake piston rewind tool kit (specialty) to rotate and press the piston back in slowly until it bottoms out.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; if it gets too full, remove a little fluid (do not overflow).
- If equipped with EPB: do not force the piston without EPB service mode active.
Step 9: Install new hardware and pads
- Install the new pad clips from the rear brake hardware kit (clips/shims) onto the bracket.
- Install the new pads into the bracket. Make sure they slide freely in the clips.
Step 10: Reinstall bracket and caliper
- Reinstall the caliper bracket using a 17mm socket and ratchet 3/8" drive.
- Torque to 98-118 Nm (72-87 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-150 ft-lbs range).
- Set the caliper over the new pads and install the slide bolts using a 14mm socket.
- Torque to 22-32 Nm (16-24 ft-lbs) using a torque wrench 3/8" drive (10-100 ft-lbs range).
Step 11: Reinstall wheels
- Put the wheels back on and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the car enough that the tires touch the ground and won’t spin.
- Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench 1/2" drive (50-150 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).
Step 12: If equipped with EPB, exit service mode
- Use the OBD2 scan tool with EPB service mode (specialty) to close/apply the EPB and exit service mode.
✅ After Repair
- With the car still in Park, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
- Check the brake fluid level and top off with brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) if needed.
- Test at low speed first. Confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
- Bed-in the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from 30 mph down to 5 mph, with cooling time between stops. Avoid hard stops for 200 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)
You Save: $270-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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