How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2016 GMC Terrain (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2016 GMC Terrain (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with required tools, parts list, safety tips, and torque specs for 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017
đź”§ Terrain - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
On your Terrain, the rear brake pads clamp the rotor to slow the vehicle. When pads get thin or rotors get grooved/rusted, you replace pads and rotors together to restore safe stopping and prevent noise and vibration.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and use jack stands—never rely on a jack alone.
- 🛑 Chock the front wheels; the rear wheels will be off the ground.
- 🛑 Release the parking brake before removing rear rotors (your parking brake is inside the rear rotor “hat”).
- 🛑 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner instead of compressed air.
- 🛑 Rotors and calipers can be hot if you just drove—let everything cool.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm lug socket
- Breaker bar 1/2"
- Ratchet 3/8"
- Torque wrench 3/8"
- Torque wrench 1/2"
- 13mm socket
- 18mm socket
- C-clamp 6"
- Flathead screwdriver
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord
- Brake cleaner
- High-temperature silicone brake grease
- Anti-seize compound
- Drain pan
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
- Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
- Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, turn the steering wheel straight, and put the shifter in P.
- Release the parking brake (important: the parking brake shoes are inside the rear rotor).
- Chock both front wheels.
- Loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn with a 19mm lug socket and breaker bar 1/2" before lifting.
- Plan to do one side at a time so you can use the other side as a reference.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Use a floor jack to lift at the rear jacking point, then support the vehicle with jack stands.
- Give the vehicle a gentle shake to confirm it’s stable before you work.
Step 2: Remove the rear wheel
- Remove the lug nuts using a 19mm lug socket and ratchet 3/8" (or breaker bar 1/2" if tight).
- Remove the wheel and set it under the rocker as an extra safety backup.
Step 3: Locate the caliper and caliper bracket
- The caliper squeezes the pads; the caliper bracket is the metal frame the pads slide in.
- Turn the rotor by hand and look for heavy grooves or rust lips—this confirms why rotor replacement helps.
Step 4: Remove the caliper (do not hang it by the hose)
- Place a drain pan under the brake area.
- Remove the caliper guide/slider bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
- Lift the caliper off the bracket. Support it with a bungee cord from the suspension spring.
- Never let the caliper dangle by the hose.
Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Slide the old pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver if they’re stuck.
- Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
Step 6: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar 1/2".
- Set the bracket aside.
Step 7: Remove the old rotor
- If the rotor is stuck, spray the hub area with brake cleaner and tap the rotor hat firmly (not the wheel studs) using the handle end of a breaker bar 1/2".
- If the rotor will not come off, double-check the parking brake is fully released. The parking brake shoes can hold the rotor.
Step 8: Clean and prep the hub
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush until it’s smooth and free of flaky rust.
- Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub face (avoid the wheel studs).
- Thin is in—too much can cause wobble.
Step 9: Install the new rotor
- Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil.
- Install the rotor onto the hub and hold it in place with 1-2 lug nuts hand-threaded (use the old lug nuts temporarily).
Step 10: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Reinstall the bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and ratchet 3/8" to start threads by hand.
- Tighten with a torque wrench 1/2": Torque to 129 Nm (95 ft-lbs).
- A torque wrench clicks when the correct tightness is reached.
Step 11: Install new pad hardware and pads
- Install new abutment clips into the bracket.
- Apply a thin layer of high-temperature silicone brake grease where the pad ears touch the clips (metal-to-metal sliding points only).
- Slide the new pads into the bracket.
Step 12: Compress the caliper piston
- Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood (this helps fluid move back). Keep it sitting on top to prevent splashes.
- Use a C-clamp 6" to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid level so it doesn’t overflow; catch any spill with the drain pan.
Step 13: Reinstall the caliper
- Place the caliper over the new pads.
- Reinstall the slider bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet 3/8".
- Tighten with a torque wrench 3/8": Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Reinstall the wheel
- Install the wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts.
- Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 19mm lug socket and ratchet 3/8".
- Lower the vehicle off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Final-tighten with a torque wrench 1/2" in a star pattern: Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Repeat on the other rear side
- Repeat Steps 1–14 for the other rear wheel.
âś… After Repair
- With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
- Check the brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap.
- Test at low speed first. Confirm no grinding, pulling, or warning lights.
- Brake pad break-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from 30–35 mph, with cool-down time between stops. Avoid hard panic stops for the first 200 miles.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$750 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$320 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$430 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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