How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2015 Ford Fusion (EPB Service Mode)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for electronic parking brake calipers for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2015 Ford Fusion (EPB Service Mode)
Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts list, torque specs, and safety tips for electronic parking brake calipers for 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
đź”§ Fusion - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the brake calipers, replace the pads and rotors, then reassemble and bed-in the new brakes. On your Fusion, the rear brakes may use an Electronic Parking Brake (EPB), which must be put into service/maintenance mode before compressing the caliper piston.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
Assumption: Common Fusion rear brake/rotor setup; verify torque specs for your exact brake package if they differ.
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Never work under a car supported only by a jack; use jack stands on solid, level ground.
- 🧤 Brake dust and cleaner are irritants; wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
- 🔥 Brakes can be hot; let everything cool before starting.
- ⚡ Hybrid note: you are not servicing high-voltage parts, but keep tools away from orange HV cables and do not probe HV connectors.
- 🅿️ If equipped with EPB, you must retract/disable it before pushing the piston in, or you can damage the caliper/EPB motor.
- 🔋 Battery disconnect is not required for this job.
đź”§ Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-200 ft-lbs range)
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 18mm socket
- Torx T30 bit
- Flathead screwdriver
- Needle-nose pliers
- Brake caliper hanger hook
- C-clamp (6")
- Rear caliper wind-back tool (specialty)
- Bidirectional scan tool with EPB service function (specialty)
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Turkey baster
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop rags
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs
- Rear brake hardware kit (abutment clips) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin boots (if damaged) - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant (silicone/ceramic) - Qty: 1
- Blue threadlocker - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4) - Qty: 1 quart
đź“‹ Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, turn the car OFF, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. If it’s near “MAX,” remove a little fluid with a turkey baster so it won’t overflow when pistons are pushed back.
- If your Fusion has EPB: plan to put it in service mode before compressing pistons. A bidirectional scan tool is the most reliable way; the EPB is the electric motor that applies the parking brake.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at the approved rear jacking point.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) under solid rear support points and lower the car onto them.
- Remove both rear wheels using a 21mm socket.
Step 2: Put the EPB into service/maintenance mode (if equipped)
- Preferred method (recommended): Use a bidirectional scan tool with EPB service function (specialty) and run the “EPB Service Mode/Rear Brake Pad Replacement” command.
- If you do not have a scan tool: If your Fusion supports an in-car EPB maintenance mode, follow the on-screen/cluster prompts while using the EPB switch and brake pedal sequence. If no prompts appear, stop and use a scan tool.
Step 3: Remove the rear caliper
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed for the rear; just work straight-on.
- Remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts using a 13mm socket (hold the slide pin with a 15mm wrench if it spins).
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a brake caliper hanger hook. Do not let it hang by the hose.
Step 4: Remove pads and bracket
- Remove the old pads from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver if they’re stuck.
- Remove the caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket.
- Set the bracket aside on a rag.
- Torque on install: Torque bracket bolts to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
Step 5: Remove the rear rotor
- If equipped with a rotor retaining screw, remove it using a Torx T30 bit.
- Pull the rotor off. If it’s rust-stuck, tap the rotor “hat” area with a rubber mallet to free it.
Step 6: Clean and prep the hub and bracket
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat. Flat hub = no brake pulsation.
- Clean the caliper bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.
- Install new abutment clips from the rear brake hardware kit.
Step 7: Install the new rotor
- Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop rags (removes shipping oil).
- Slide the rotor onto the hub.
- If you have a retaining screw, reinstall it with a Torx T30 bit and Torque to 9 Nm (80 in-lbs).
Step 8: Reinstall the bracket
- Apply a small amount of blue threadlocker to the clean bracket bolt threads.
- Install the bracket using an 18mm socket.
- Torque to 115 Nm (85 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Compress (retract) the caliper piston
- Check the brake fluid level again before compressing.
- If EPB motor calipers: after EPB service mode is active, use a C-clamp (6") to slowly push the piston straight in.
- If screw-in style piston: use a rear caliper wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate and press the piston in at the same time. A wind-back tool is a cube/plate tool that turns the piston while pushing it back.
- Go slow so you don’t damage seals.
Step 10: Install new pads
- Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant (silicone/ceramic) to pad ears (where they touch clips) and to the caliper contact points. Do not get lube on pad friction material or rotor.
- Install the inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper
- Slide the caliper over the new pads.
- Install slide bolts using a 13mm socket (hold the pin with a 15mm wrench if needed).
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side
- Do the same steps on the other rear wheel. Use the same tools and torque specs.
Step 13: Reinstall wheels
- Reinstall wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
- Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern using a torque wrench.
Step 14: Exit EPB service mode (if used)
- Use the bidirectional scan tool (specialty) to command EPB to “Close/Exit Service Mode.”
- Apply and release the parking brake using the EPB switch to confirm normal operation.
âś… After Repair
- With the car still in Park, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm. This seats the pads against the rotors.
- Check brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 or DOT 4 if needed.
- Test the EPB: apply/release and confirm no warnings.
- Road test at low speed first. Listen for scraping or grinding.
- Pad bed-in (typical): make 6-10 moderate stops from ~30 mph to 5 mph, with cool-down driving between stops. Avoid hard stops for 200 miles.
đź’° DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $450-$900 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $160-$420 (parts only)
You Save: $290-$480 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
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