How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, drum-in-hat parking brake tips, and torque specs for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee (DIY Guide)
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts list, drum-in-hat parking brake tips, and torque specs for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 Grand Cherokee - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll be removing the rear wheels, swapping the rear brake pads, and replacing the rear rotors. On your Grand Cherokee, the parking brake uses small “drum-in-hat” shoes inside the rear rotor, so rotor removal sometimes needs a quick parking-brake adjuster step.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2.0-3.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- 🧯 Brake dust is harmful—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
- 🔥 Brakes can be hot—let everything cool before touching parts.
- 🧱 Support the SUV with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🧪 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose—support it with a hanger.
- 🔓 Keep the parking brake fully released before removing rear rotors.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
- Wheel chocks (pair)
- 21mm socket
- Breaker bar (1/2" drive)
- Torque wrench (20–200 ft-lbs range)
- Ratchet (3/8" drive)
- Socket set (metric)
- Wrench set (metric)
- C-clamp brake piston tool
- Flathead screwdriver (medium)
- Rubber mallet
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord or mechanics wire
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease (silicone-based) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- Anti-seize compound - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧭 Park on level ground, shift to P, and fully release the parking brake.
- 🧱 Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
- 🛞 Crack the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn with a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
- 🧪 Open the brake fluid reservoir cap (under the hood) and set it loosely on top. This helps the rear caliper piston compress easier. Do not overfill afterward.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Use a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) to lift the rear at a proper lift point, then set the vehicle onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair).
- Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and ratchet.
Step 2: Remove the rear caliper (pads still inside)
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed for rear work—just position yourself for access.
- Locate the two rear caliper slide/guide bolts on the back of the caliper.
- Remove the slide/guide bolts using a ratchet (3/8" drive) with the correct metric socket (commonly 13mm) and hold the slide pin with a metric wrench if it spins.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket, then hang it from the suspension using a bungee cord or mechanics wire.
Step 3: Remove old pads and hardware
- Pull the old brake pads out of the bracket by hand. Use a flathead screwdriver (medium) gently if they’re stuck.
- Remove the old pad hardware clips from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver (medium).
Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket
- Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using a breaker bar (1/2" drive) and the correct metric socket (commonly 18mm or 21mm depending on build).
- Set the bracket aside on a towel.
Step 5: Remove the rear rotor (parking brake “drum-in-hat” inside)
- If the rotor slides off, remove it by hand.
- If the rotor is stuck to the hub, spray the hub center with brake cleaner spray, then tap the rotor hat with a rubber mallet to break rust loose.
- If the rotor won’t come off because the parking brake shoes are holding it, back off the adjuster:
- Use a flathead screwdriver (medium) to pop out the small rubber access plug in the rotor hat (if equipped).
- Rotate the rotor until the access hole lines up with the star-wheel adjuster.
- Use the flathead screwdriver (medium) to turn the star wheel to retract (loosen) the parking brake shoes until the rotor comes off.
Step 6: Clean and prep the hub and bracket
- Use a wire brush to clean rust off the hub face (where the rotor sits).
- Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.
- Apply a very thin film of anti-seize compound to the hub center (not on the wheel studs).
Step 7: Install the new rotor
- Clean the new rotor surfaces using brake cleaner spray and shop towels (this removes shipping oil).
- Slide the new rotor onto the hub.
- If the rotor drags hard and won’t sit flush, the parking brake shoes are still too tight—repeat Step 5 adjuster retraction using a flathead screwdriver (medium).
Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket
- Reinstall the bracket over the new rotor using the original bracket bolts with a ratchet to start them by hand.
- Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 125 Nm (92 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Install new pad hardware and pads
- Install the new hardware clips into the bracket by hand (they should snap in). Use a flathead screwdriver (medium) if needed.
- Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease (silicone-based) on the pad ears where they touch the clips. Grease only metal-to-metal contact points.
- Slide the new pads into the bracket.
Step 10: Compress the rear caliper piston
- Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston, then use a C-clamp brake piston tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- A C-clamp brake piston tool is a screw clamp that presses the piston straight in.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing—if it starts to overflow, stop and remove some fluid (do not spill on paint).
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper
- Set the caliper back over the new pads.
- Reinstall the slide/guide bolts using a ratchet (3/8" drive) and correct metric socket.
- Tighten with a torque wrench: Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the SUV off the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Set the parking brake (only if rotor was tight)
- If you loosened the parking brake adjuster in Step 5, you may need to re-adjust it so it holds properly.
- With the rotor installed, use a flathead screwdriver (medium) through the access hole to tighten the star wheel until you feel light drag, then back off slightly so the rotor turns freely with minimal contact.
✅ After Repair
- 🦶 Pump the brake pedal 10–15 times before driving until it feels firm (this seats the pistons against the new pads).
- 🧪 Check brake fluid level and top off if needed (do not overfill).
- 🛞 Test at low speed first: confirm normal stopping and no pulling/noise.
- 🔥 Bed-in (break-in) the pads: do 6–8 medium stops from ~40 km/h to 10 km/h, letting brakes cool 30–60 seconds between stops. Avoid hard stops at first.
- 🔍 Recheck lug nut torque after 50–100 km using a torque wrench.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹18,000-₹35,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹10,000-₹22,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹8,000-₹13,000 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run ₹1,200-₹2,500/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2.0-3.0 hours.
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