How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2011 Ford F-150 (Parking Brake Adjust)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, torque specs, and drum-in-hat parking brake adjustment tips for 2010, 2011
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads & Rotors on a 2011 Ford F-150 (Parking Brake Adjust)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts list, torque specs, and drum-in-hat parking brake adjustment tips for 2010, 2011
🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement
You’ll remove the rear wheels, take off the rear calipers and brackets, replace the pads and rotors, then set the parking brake shoe adjustment (your F-150 uses a small “drum-in-hat” parking brake inside the rear rotor).
Doing this correctly restores braking power, prevents vibration, and avoids uneven pad wear.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Support the truck with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🧱 Chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- 🔥 Brakes can be extremely hot; let everything cool before touching.
- 🧴 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner and wear a dust mask.
- 🧷 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a bungee cord.
- 🔧 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces; clean with brake cleaner if contaminated.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 1/2" drive breaker bar
- 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range)
- 13mm socket
- 18mm socket
- 3/8" drive ratchet
- 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 ft-lbs range)
- Flathead screwdriver
- Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
- Bungee cord
- Wire brush
- Rubber mallet
- Pick tool
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Dust mask
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Replace in pairs - Qty: 2
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans
- High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 quart
- Rear parking brake hardware kit - Optional (recommended if springs are rusty) - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, shift to P, and release the parking brake fully.
- Chock both front wheels using wheel chocks.
- Break the rear lug nuts loose 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar (before lifting).
- Open the hood and remove the brake master cylinder cap (leave it resting on top) so fluid can rise when compressing pistons.
- Tip: Put rags under the reservoir in case of spill.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear axle center.
- Place jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair) under the axle tubes and lower the truck onto them.
- Remove the rear wheels using a 21mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
Step 2: Remove the rear caliper
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed (rear), just get good access and lighting.
- Remove the caliper slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive ratchet.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it from the leaf spring/axle using a bungee cord.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs) when reinstalling caliper slide pin bolts.
- Tip: If it’s tight, wiggle—don’t pry the hose.
Step 3: Remove the pads and caliper bracket
- Pull the brake pads out of the bracket by hand; use a flathead screwdriver gently if needed.
- Remove the caliper bracket (anchor) bolts using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive breaker bar.
- Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs) when reinstalling caliper bracket bolts.
Step 4: Remove the rear rotor (and back off the parking brake if stuck)
- If the rotor pulls off, remove it by hand. If it’s stuck, tap around the rotor hat using a rubber mallet.
- If the rotor will not come off, the parking brake shoes are likely holding it.
- Remove the access plug on the backing plate using a pick tool.
- Insert a flathead screwdriver to turn the star-wheel adjuster and back the shoes off until the rotor frees up.
- Remove the rotor and set it aside.
Step 5: Inspect and service the parking brake shoes (inside the rotor)
- Inspect the parking brake shoes and hardware for broken springs, missing lining, or heavy rust.
- Clean loose rust with a wire brush (don’t blow dust into the air).
- If hardware is heavily corroded, replace it using a rear parking brake hardware kit.
Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor
- Clean the hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
- Spray the new rotor braking surfaces with brake cleaner to remove shipping oil.
- Install the new rotor onto the hub.
Step 7: Adjust the parking brake shoes to the new rotor
- Through the backing plate access hole, turn the star-wheel with a flathead screwdriver until you feel a light, even drag when rotating the rotor by hand.
- Back the adjuster off slightly until the rotor spins freely with just a faint rub.
- Reinstall the access plug using your fingers (or a pick tool gently).
- Tip: Too tight causes overheating and poor MPG.
Step 8: Install the bracket and new pads
- Reinstall the caliper bracket using an 18mm socket and 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
- Clean and lubricate the pad contact points (abutment areas) with high-temperature brake lubricant (a thin film only).
- Install the new pads into the bracket by hand.
Step 9: Compress the caliper piston and reinstall the caliper
- Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- A piston compressor is a tool that pushes the piston straight back without cocking it.
- Slide the caliper over the new pads and install the slide pin bolts using a 13mm socket and 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-60 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and lower the truck
- Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts using a 21mm socket.
- Lower the truck off the jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum, pair) using the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
- Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern using a 1/2" drive torque wrench (50-250 ft-lbs range).
- Torque to 203 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Restore pedal feel and fluid level
- With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal 10–15 times until it feels firm.
- Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
- Reinstall the brake master cylinder cap by hand.
✅ After Repair
- Start the truck and confirm the brake pedal stays firm.
- Test the parking brake: set it, try to roll slowly, then release it.
- Do a careful road test and listen for grinding or pulling.
- Bed-in the pads (break-in): make 8–10 moderate stops from 40 to 10 mph, allowing 30–60 seconds between stops for cooling.
- Recheck for brake fluid leaks around both rear calipers.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $550-$950 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $180-$420 (parts only)
You Save: $370-$530 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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