🔧 Wrangler - Rear Brake Pads & Rotor Replacement

You’ll be replacing the rear brake pads and rotors on your Wrangler (both sides). This restores braking power and fixes common issues like pulsation (warped rotors), grinding, or thin pads.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-4 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level ground and chock the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Support the rear axle with jack stands; never rely on a jack.
• ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released during rotor removal (the parking brake shoes sit inside the rotor “hat”).
• ⚠️ Don’t let the brake caliper hang by the hose—support it with a hanger.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is nasty—use brake cleaner, not compressed air.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• Torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 13mm socket
• 18mm socket
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp (6" minimum)
• Wire brush
• Bungee cord or mechanic’s wire
• Brake parts cleaner spray
• Small rubber mallet
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2
• Brake caliper hardware kit (rear) - Qty: 1
• High-temp brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 2 cans

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on flat ground, leave the transmission in 1st gear, and release the parking brake.
• Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks.
• Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 21mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.
• Open the brake fluid reservoir cap (under the hood) to prevent pressure buildup when you compress the pistons.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear

• Lift the rear using a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) under the rear axle center.
• Set the axle down onto jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum) placed under the axle tubes.
• Remove the rear wheels with a 21mm socket and ratchet.

Step 2: Remove the rear caliper

• Turn the steering wheel is not applicable—just make sure you have good access and lighting.
• Remove the two caliper slide-pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket, then hang it from the suspension with a bungee cord or mechanic’s wire.
• Tip: Don’t twist the brake hose.

Step 3: Remove pads and inspect

• Pull the old pads out of the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if they’re stuck).
• Check the caliper slide pins for smooth movement (they should slide in/out by hand). If sticky, clean and re-lube later.

Step 4: Remove the caliper bracket (adapter)

• Remove the two caliper bracket bolts using an 18mm socket and breaker bar.
• Set the bracket aside.
• When reinstalling later: Torque to 136 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 5: Remove the rotor

• Spray around the rotor hub area with brake parts cleaner spray.
• Pull the rotor straight off. If it’s seized, tap the rotor hat with a small rubber mallet while pulling.
• If the rotor won’t come off, the parking brake shoes may be adjusted too tight—use a flathead screwdriver through the access slot to back off the star wheel (small toothed adjuster inside). A “star wheel” is a toothed adjuster that expands/shrinks the parking brake shoes.

Step 6: Prep the hub and install the new rotor

• Clean the wheel hub face with a wire brush so the new rotor sits flat.
• Spray both sides of the new rotor with brake parts cleaner spray to remove packing oil, then wipe clean with a shop towel (use your nitrile gloves).
• Install the new rotor onto the hub.

Step 7: Service the bracket and install new hardware

• Pop off the old pad abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket using a flathead screwdriver.
• Clean the bracket pad lands with a wire brush.
• Install the new clips from the rear brake caliper hardware kit.
• Apply a thin film of high-temp brake lubricant where the pad ears slide on the clips (do not get lube on the pad friction surface).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper bracket

• Position the bracket over the rotor and start the bolts by hand.
• Tighten with an 18mm socket and ratchet, then finish with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 136 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old pad against the piston face, then use a C-clamp (6" minimum) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Go slow and watch the brake fluid reservoir level so it doesn’t overflow.
• Tip: Slow compression helps protect seals.

Step 10: Install new pads and reinstall the caliper

• Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Slide the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide-pin bolts using a 13mm socket and ratchet, then torque with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Reinstall wheels

• Reinstall the wheels and hand-thread the lug nuts.
• Lower the Wrangler off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other side

• Repeat the same steps for the other rear wheel.

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, pump the brake pedal 10-15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
• Check brake fluid level and top off if needed (don’t overfill).
• Test at low speed first. Make sure braking is smooth and straight.
• Bed-in (break-in) the pads: make 6-10 moderate stops from ~40 mph down to ~10 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.
• Recheck for leaks, unusual smells, or pulling after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $450-$850 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $160-$350 (parts only)

You Save: $290-$500 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 2-3 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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