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2018 Honda CR-V
2020 - 2022 Honda CR-V
Hybrid EX Inline 4 2.0L
Compatible with more variants.

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  • Honda CR-V
  • 2018
  • How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2020-2025 Honda CR-V (Trim: LX | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
How to Replace Rear Brakes 2017-2022 Honda CR-V

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2017-2022 Honda CR-V

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

OBD2
OBD2
Scanner
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
12mm
12mm
Socket
or (7/16")
17mm
17mm
Wrench
or (21/32")
19mm
19mm
Deep Socket
or (23/32")
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2020-2025 Honda CR-V (Trim: LX | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step guide with electric parking brake service mode, tools, and torque specs for 2020, 2021, 2022

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2020-2025 Honda CR-V (Trim: LX | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step guide with electric parking brake service mode, tools, and torque specs for 2020, 2021, 2022

Orion
Orion

🔧 CR-V - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Your CR-V uses an electric parking brake built into each rear caliper. The parking-brake motors must be placed in maintenance mode with a compatible scan tool before the caliper pistons are compressed.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Do not compress or rotate a rear caliper piston before activating electric parking-brake maintenance mode. This can damage the caliper actuator.
  • ⚠️ Never work under your CR-V while it is supported only by a floor jack.
  • ⚠️ Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves. Brake dust and brake fluid can irritate skin and eyes.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Support each caliper with a hanger. Never let it hang from its brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Keep grease and brake cleaner away from pad friction material and rotor faces.
  • 🔋 Battery disconnection is not required. The battery must remain connected for scan-tool operation.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • OBD-II bidirectional scan tool with Honda electric parking-brake service function (specialty)
  • 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
  • 12mm socket
  • 17mm open-end wrench
  • 19mm deep socket
  • 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
  • 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench rated 10-80 Nm
  • 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench rated 40-150 Nm
  • Rear brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Plastic trim tool
  • Brake-pad spreader
  • Small nylon cleaning brush
  • Brake caliper hanger
  • Low-profile floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • DOT 3 brake-fluid tester strips
  • Safety glasses
  • Nitrile mechanic gloves

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set; replace both sides
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 set
  • Silicone-based brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
  • Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle, only if adjustment is required

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🚗 Park your CR-V on firm, level ground. Select Park and leave the electric parking brake released.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks securely in front of and behind both front wheels.
  • 🔋 Confirm that the 12-volt battery is adequately charged. Low voltage can interrupt parking-brake service mode.
  • 🧰 Connect the bidirectional scan tool to the OBD-II port beneath the driver-side dashboard. “Bidirectional” means the tool can command vehicle components, not merely read fault codes.
  • 💧 Open the hood and inspect the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is at the MAX line, remove a small amount with a clean brake-fluid tool before compressing the pistons.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Activate Electric Parking-Brake Maintenance Mode

  • Connect the OBD-II bidirectional scan tool with the ignition off.
  • Switch the ignition on without starting the engine by pressing the START button twice without pressing the brake pedal.
  • Use the scan tool and select Honda > CR-V > ABS/VSA > Electric Parking Brake > Maintenance Mode > Enter. Menu wording may vary by scan-tool brand.
  • Follow the tool prompts until both rear actuator motors finish retracting.
  • Switch the ignition off, but leave the scan tool connected.
  • Listen for both rear motors operating.

Step 2: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts

  • With your CR-V still on the ground, use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
  • Do not remove the wheel nuts yet.

Step 3: Raise and Support the Rear

  • Use the low-profile floor jack at the reinforced rear center lifting point beneath the rear differential area.
  • Position the jack stands beneath the reinforced rear side support points.
  • Lower your CR-V slowly onto both stands. Gently push the body to verify that it is stable.
  • Leave the floor jack touching the lifting point as a backup without carrying the vehicle’s weight.

Step 4: Remove Both Rear Wheels

  • Use the 19mm deep socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the rear wheel nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and place them flat away from the work area.
  • Complete one brake assembly at a time so the opposite side remains available as a reference.

Step 5: Inspect the Brakes

  • Use the non-chlorinated brake cleaner and small nylon cleaning brush to remove loose dust around the caliper and pad supports.
  • Inspect the rotor for deep grooves, cracks, severe rust, or blue heat spots. Measure or professionally inspect the rotors if their condition is questionable.
  • Inspect the caliper, brake hose, and parking-brake actuator for fluid leaks or physical damage.
  • Stop the repair if one old pad is dramatically thinner than the other. A seized slide pin or caliper may require additional repair.

Step 6: Remove the Caliper

  • Use the 12mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
  • If a guide pin rotates, hold its flat section with the 17mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt.
  • Lift the caliper away from the pads. Use the brake caliper hanger to suspend it from the suspension.
  • Do not disconnect the brake hose or electric parking-brake wiring.

Step 7: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use the plastic trim tool to remove the stainless-steel pad-retaining clips without gouging the bracket.
  • Note the original position of any wear indicator before discarding the old pads.

Step 8: Check the Guide Pins

  • Slide each guide pin in and out by hand. It should move smoothly and its rubber boot must be intact.
  • If a pin is dry, remove it by hand, wipe it clean, and apply a thin coating of silicone-based brake lubricant.
  • Do not use petroleum grease. It can swell the rubber boots.
  • Reinstall each pin into its original location and confirm that the boot seals around it.

Step 9: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Verify again that maintenance mode remains active.
  • Place an old pad against the piston, then use the rear brake caliper piston compression tool to press the piston slowly and straight into the caliper.
  • Do not rotate the piston and do not force it. Stop if resistance becomes excessive.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing both sides. Remove excess only with a clean brake-fluid tool if it approaches the top.
  • Inspect the piston dust boot and make sure it is not twisted or pinched.

Step 10: Install New Hardware and Pads

  • Use the small nylon cleaning brush and non-chlorinated brake cleaner to clean the bracket surfaces beneath the retaining clips.
  • Press the new rear brake pad hardware into the bracket by hand.
  • Apply a very thin film of silicone-based brake lubricant only where the pad tabs contact the hardware.
  • Install the inner and outer pads in the same orientation as the originals.
  • Keep lubricant off the rotor and pad friction surfaces.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand. Do not force it or twist the brake hose.
  • Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Use the 17mm open-end wrench to hold a guide pin if it rotates.
  • Use the 12mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench to tighten both guide-pin bolts to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the Opposite Side

  • Use the same listed tools and repeat Steps 5 through 11 on the other rear wheel.
  • Always replace rear brake pads as a complete axle set, never on only one side.

Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
  • Use the 19mm deep socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to tighten the nuts lightly in a crisscross pattern.
  • Use the low-profile floor jack to raise your CR-V slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Seat the Pads and Exit Maintenance Mode

  • With the ignition off, press the brake pedal repeatedly by foot until it becomes firm. Do not start the engine until the pedal is firm.
  • Switch the ignition on without starting the engine.
  • Use the OBD-II bidirectional scan tool and select Honda > CR-V > ABS/VSA > Electric Parking Brake > Maintenance Mode > Exit.
  • Follow the prompts until both parking-brake actuators finish operating.
  • Use the scan tool to read and clear any ABS or electric parking-brake codes created during service.

✅ After Repair

  • 🦶 Start the engine and verify that the brake pedal remains firm. Stop immediately if it sinks or feels unusually soft.
  • 🅿️ Apply and release the electric parking brake several times. Confirm that the warning indicator operates normally.
  • 💧 Check the brake-fluid level. Keep it between MIN and MAX using only fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed bottle.
  • 🔍 Inspect both calipers and hoses for leaks. Confirm that all tools have been removed from beneath your CR-V.
  • 🚗 Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe, traffic-free area before normal driving.
  • 🛑 Bed in the pads using 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 10 km/h. Avoid activating ABS and allow cooling time between stops.
  • 🔥 Avoid hard braking or holding the brake pedal after a hard stop for the first 300 km unless required for safety.
  • 🔧 Recheck the wheel-nut torque after approximately 50-100 km.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹12,000-₹24,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹4,500-₹10,000 (parts only; scan-tool purchase or rental not included)

You Save: ₹7,500-₹14,000 by doing it yourself!

Local labor and imported CR-V parts prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.


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