🔧 Rear Brake Pads - Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear pads means removing the rear caliper, swapping the pads, and compressing the piston before reassembly. On your Explorer, the big thing to watch is whether the rear parking brake is electronic or cable-driven, because that changes the prep and piston retraction method.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on a flat surface and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• Support the vehicle with jack stands before removing any wheels.
• Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• If equipped with an electronic parking brake, put it in service mode before starting. Service mode means the parking brake is retracted for maintenance.
• Brake dust can be harmful; wear safety glasses and gloves.
• After the repair, pump the brake pedal before moving the vehicle.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• 21mm socket
• Ratchet
• Torque wrench
• 14mm socket
• Breaker bar
• C-clamp or brake piston compressor
• Trim tool
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner
• Bungee cord or hook
• Gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake grease - Qty: 1
• Brake hardware kit - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the transmission to Park.
• Engage the parking brake unless your service procedure requires service mode first.
• If your Explorer has an electronic parking brake, use the vehicle menu or scan tool to retract it before removing the calipers.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts before lifting the vehicle.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Prepare the vehicle

• Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn while the vehicle is still on the ground.
• Chock the front wheels.
• Lift the rear with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum) and support it with jack stands.
• Remove the rear wheels.

Step 2: Retract the parking brake if equipped

• If your Explorer has an electronic parking brake, place it in service mode before touching the rear calipers. Use the vehicle’s brake service menu or a scan tool.
• Do not force the caliper piston if the EPB is still applied.

Step 3: Remove the caliper

• Use the 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the caliper slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and hang it with a bungee cord or hook. Do not let it hang by the brake hose.

Step 4: Remove the old pads

• Slide the old pads out of the bracket.
• Remove the pad clips and hardware if you are replacing them.
• Use the wire brush to clean rust and dirt from the caliper bracket contact points.
• Spray the bracket lightly with brake cleaner and let it dry.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a C-clamp or brake piston compressor to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• If the piston will not move, stop and confirm the parking brake is in service mode.
• Go slow to avoid damaging seals.

Step 6: Install the new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips and hardware from the brake hardware kit.
• Apply a thin layer of brake grease to the pad contact points and slide surfaces only. Do not get grease on the pad friction material or rotor.
• Install the new rear pads into the bracket.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper

• Reinstall the caliper over the new pads.
• Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the caliper slide bolts to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel

• Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts with the 21mm socket.
• Lower the vehicle and torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other side

• Replace the pads on the opposite rear wheel using the same steps.
• Replace pads in pairs for even braking.

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✅ After Repair

• Pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm before driving.
• If equipped with an electronic parking brake, exit service mode and confirm normal parking brake operation.
• Check brake fluid level and top off if needed.
• Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
• Listen for rubbing or clicking noises, and recheck lug nut torque after a short drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.0 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.