🔧 Rear Brake Pads - Pad Replacement

The rear pads on your Camry wear just like the fronts, and replacing them restores stopping power and quiet braking. This job also gives you a chance to inspect the rotors, caliper slide pins, and brake hardware for uneven wear or sticking.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on a flat surface and chock the front wheels before lifting the car.
• Support the car with jack stands; never rely on the jack alone.
• Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it off with compressed air.
• Your Camry uses a conventional rear parking brake, not an electronic parking brake, so no scan tool retraction is needed.
• Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• No battery disconnect is required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug wrench or socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• Ratchet
• Breaker bar
• Torque wrench
• C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Bungee cord or caliper hanger
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands
• Wheel chocks
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground.
• Set the parking brake before lifting, then release it before removing the rear calipers.
• Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts slightly before raising the car.
• Keep the ignition off while servicing the brakes.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the vehicle

• Use the 21mm lug wrench or socket to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn.
• Lift the rear of the car with a floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Place the car securely on jack stands.
• Remove both rear wheels.

Step 2: Remove the caliper

• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm wrench to remove the caliper slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket carefully.
• Hang the caliper with a bungee cord or caliper hanger.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the hose.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Remove the pad clips/hardware from the bracket.
• Use a flat-blade screwdriver if the clips are stuck.

Step 4: Inspect and clean the bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean rust and debris from the pad lands and slide areas.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner.
• Inspect the rotor surface for deep grooves or heavy rust.
• If the slide pins feel dry or stiff, clean and lubricate them.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool (specialty) to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid level in the reservoir while compressing the piston.
• Go slow to avoid seal damage.

Step 6: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips from the brake pad hardware kit.
• Apply a light coat of brake lubricant to the pad contact points and clip interfaces.
• Install the new rear pads into the bracket.
• Make sure the pads sit fully in the clips.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper

• Slide the caliper over the new pads.
• Install the slide bolts by hand first.
• Use a 14mm socket and 17mm wrench to tighten them.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
• Lower the car with the floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum).
• Use the 21mm lug wrench or socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other side

• Replace the rear pads on the opposite side using the same steps.

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✅ After Repair

• Press the brake pedal several times before moving the car. The pedal should become firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off if needed.
• Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
• Expect a short break-in period. Avoid hard stops for the first 200 miles if possible.
• Listen for rubbing, clicking, or squealing after the test drive.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $70-$160 (parts only)

You Save: $180-$290 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.