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2019 Ford Escape
2017 - 2019 Ford Escape
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How to Replace Rear Brakes 2013-2019 Ford Escape

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2013-2019 Ford Escape

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19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
7mm
7mm
Allen Socket
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
3/8
3/8
Torque Wrench
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2017-2019 Ford Escape (Trim: SE)

Step-by-step guide with electronic parking brake service mode, tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2017-2019 Ford Escape (Trim: SE)

Step-by-step guide with electronic parking brake service mode, tools, torque specs, and safety tips for 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Escape - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This is an intermediate job, mainly because your Escape has an electronic parking brake. Put it into maintenance mode before touching either rear caliper, then replace the pads on both sides. The brake piston retracts straight inward once maintenance mode is active.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 2-3 hours

Assumption: The rear rotors and calipers are reusable and undamaged.


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Support your Escape with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • ⚠️ Enter parking-brake maintenance mode before compressing either rear piston.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Do not let a caliper hang from its rubber brake hose.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can irritate your lungs. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Brake cleaner and brake fluid can damage paint and plastics.
  • ⚠️ Do not disconnect the battery. Stable battery voltage is needed to operate maintenance mode.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 19mm lug-nut socket
  • Rear caliper guide-pin socket or hex bit set
  • 3/8-inch drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
  • 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
  • 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
  • Rear brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Small flat-blade screwdriver
  • Brake-pad thickness gauge or metric ruler
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Caliper hanger or strong mechanics wire
  • Small nylon detailing brush
  • Drain pan
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set for both rear wheels
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 if not included with the pads
  • Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • Silicone-based brake lubricant - Qty: 1 packet or tube
  • DOT 4 LV brake fluid meeting Ford WSS-M6C65-A2 - Qty: 1 small sealed container if topping up is necessary

Rear ceramic pad sets currently shown in the parts aisle start around $20-$40. Replace the rear pads as a complete axle set, never one wheel at a time.


📋 Before You Begin

  • 📋 Park on solid, level ground and shift the transmission into Park.
  • 📋 Keep the front wheels on the ground and place wheel chocks firmly around them.
  • 📋 Check the brake-fluid reservoir. Remove a little fluid first if it is filled to the very top.
  • 📋 Release the electronic parking brake before entering maintenance mode.
  • 📋 Leave the driver’s door closed while performing the maintenance-mode sequence.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Enter Parking-Brake Maintenance Mode

  • Switch the ignition on without starting the engine.
  • Fully release the electronic parking brake.
  • Press and hold the accelerator pedal fully down.
  • Push and hold the electronic parking-brake switch downward in the release position.
  • While holding both, switch the ignition off and back on within five seconds.
  • Continue holding until the message center displays Park Brake Maintenance Mode and the yellow parking-brake indicator illuminates.
  • Switch the ignition off, then release the pedal and switch.
  • If maintenance mode does not appear, stop and repeat the sequence. Do not proceed until it is confirmed.

Step 2: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts

  • Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and 1/2-inch breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-quarter turn.
  • Keep both rear tires on the ground while loosening them.

Step 3: Raise and Support the Vehicle

  • Use the 2-ton floor jack at the approved rear lifting point.
  • Place the 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced rear support points.
  • Lower your Escape onto the stands and gently test that it is stable.
  • Leave the floor jack lightly touching its lift point as a backup, without carrying the vehicle’s weight.

Step 4: Remove Both Rear Wheels

  • Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and slide them partly beneath the vehicle as an additional safety barrier.

Step 5: Inspect the Brakes Before Disassembly

  • Use the brake-pad thickness gauge or metric ruler to compare the inner and outer pads.
  • Ford’s minimum rear friction-material thickness is approximately 3mm. Replace all four rear pads regardless of which one is worn most.
  • Inspect each rotor for deep grooves, blue heat spots, cracks, heavy rust or a pronounced outer lip.
  • Check for wet brake fluid around the caliper and hose. Stop the repair if you find a leak.
  • Severely uneven pad wear usually means a seized guide pin or sticking caliper. New pads won’t cure bad hardware.

Step 6: Remove the First Caliper

  • Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to remove any protective guide-pin caps.
  • Use the matching rear caliper guide-pin socket or hex bit and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove both guide pins.
  • Lift the caliper away from the rotor without pulling or twisting its brake hose.
  • Support it with the caliper hanger or mechanics wire.
  • Brake hoses make terrible caliper hangers.

Step 7: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old stainless abutment clips if replacement clips are supplied.
  • Note the position of any wear indicator, spring or pad shim before removal.

Step 8: Clean the Pad Contact Areas

  • Place the drain pan under the brake assembly.
  • Apply brake cleaner to the bracket and use the small nylon brush to remove loose rust and brake dust.
  • Install the new hardware clips by hand.
  • Apply a very thin layer of silicone-based brake lubricant where the pad ears touch the hardware.
  • Keep all lubricant off the rotor and pad friction surfaces.

Step 9: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Confirm that Park Brake Maintenance Mode was displayed before disassembly.
  • Place an old pad against the piston, then use the rear brake caliper piston compression tool to press the piston slowly and evenly into the housing.
  • In Ford maintenance mode, press the piston straight inward. Do not forcefully rotate it.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Remove excess fluid if it approaches the top.
  • Stop if the piston tilts, binds or requires extreme force. That points to a damaged or seized caliper.

Step 10: Install the New Pads

  • Install the inner and outer pads by hand in the same orientation as the originals.
  • Make sure the pad ears sit fully inside the hardware clips and slide without binding.
  • Fit any supplied wear indicator or spring in the position matching the old pad.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Swing the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
  • Start both guide pins by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Use the matching rear caliper guide-pin socket or hex bit and 3/8-inch torque wrench.
  • Torque the rear caliper guide-pin bolts to 28Nm (21 ft-lbs).
  • Reinstall the guide-pin protective caps by hand.

Step 12: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 5 through 11 on the opposite rear wheel using the same tools.
  • Compare the old pads from both sides. Major thickness differences require further caliper and guide-pin inspection.

Step 13: Reinstall the Wheels

  • Clean dirt and loose rust from the wheel and hub contact surfaces using the small nylon brush.
  • Install each wheel and start every wheel nut by hand.
  • Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and ratchet to snug the nuts in a star pattern.
  • Use the 2-ton floor jack to raise your Escape, remove the jack stands and lower it carefully.
  • Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench.
  • Torque the wheel nuts to 135Nm (100 ft-lbs) in a star pattern. Ford specifies clean, dry threads. fordservicecontent.com

Step 14: Exit Parking-Brake Maintenance Mode

  • Switch the ignition on without starting the engine.
  • Press and hold the accelerator pedal fully down.
  • Pull and hold the electronic parking-brake switch upward in the apply position.
  • While holding both, switch the ignition off and back on within five seconds.
  • Release the accelerator pedal and switch after the parking brake cycles.
  • Confirm that the maintenance-mode message and yellow warning indicator turn off. The parking brake may apply and release during this process. fordescape4.com

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ With the engine off, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it becomes firm.
  • ✅ Do not move your Escape if the pedal remains soft or sinks toward the floor.
  • ✅ Check the brake-fluid level and correct it only with the specified DOT 4 LV fluid.
  • ✅ Start the engine and verify that the brake and parking-brake warnings turn off.
  • ✅ Apply and release the electronic parking brake twice while stationary.
  • ✅ Test the brakes at walking speed before entering traffic.
  • ✅ Bed the pads using 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing brief cooling between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard emergency-style stops and holding the pedal firmly while stationary immediately after bedding.
  • ✅ Recheck wheel-nut torque after approximately 100 miles (160km). fordservicecontent.com

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 equivalent, depending on local labor and whether the rotors need replacement

DIY Cost: $20-$85 equivalent for pads and basic consumables

You Save: Approximately $150-$350 by doing it yourself!

Labor rates vary considerably by region. This repair normally takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.


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