How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016 Kia Forte (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, caliper piston wind-back steps, and torque specs for a smooth install for 2014, 2015, 2016
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016 Kia Forte (Step-by-Step DIY Guide)
Tools, parts, safety tips, caliper piston wind-back steps, and torque specs for a smooth install for 2014, 2015, 2016
🔧 Forte - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Replacing the rear brake pads restores stopping power and prevents metal-to-metal damage that can ruin your rotors (the flat brake discs). You’ll remove the rear caliper (the clamp that squeezes the pads), install new pads/hardware, and retract the caliper piston so everything fits back together.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- 🛑 Release the parking brake before starting, or the rear calipers may not come off.
- 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a floor jack alone.
- 🛑 Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose; support it with a hanger.
- 🛑 Avoid breathing brake dust; use brake cleaner, not compressed air.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Lug nut socket 21mm
- Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
- Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive (10-80 ft-lbs range)
- Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive (50-150 ft-lbs range)
- Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
- Socket set metric 12mm-19mm
- Wrench set metric 12mm-19mm
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord
- Rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty)
- C-clamp 6-inch
- Needle-nose pliers
- Catch pan
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake pad hardware kit (clips/shims) - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic caliper grease) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Rear brake rotors - Qty: 2 Replace in pairs if worn
📋 Before You Begin
- 🧱 Park on level ground, put the shifter in Park, and chock the front wheels.
- 🧱 Make sure the parking brake is fully released.
- 🧱 Loosen rear lug nuts 1/2 turn before lifting.
- 🧱 Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir. Keep the cap sitting loosely on top. Helps prevent spills/pressure buildup
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Lift and secure the rear
- Use wheel chocks on both front wheels.
- Use a breaker bar 1/2-inch drive with a 21mm socket to loosen the rear lug nuts 1/2 turn.
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear, then place jack stands under solid rear lift points and lower onto the stands.
Step 2: Remove the rear wheels
- Remove lug nuts with a 21mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive (or breaker bar), then remove both rear wheels.
Step 3: Remove the caliper (not the bracket)
- Find the two caliper slide-pin bolts (small bolts on the back of the caliper).
- Use a ratchet 3/8-inch drive with the correct metric socket set to remove the slide-pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the pads and rotor.
- Support the caliper using a bungee cord so it does not pull on the hose.
- Slide pins are the guided bolts that let the caliper move.
Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand. Use a flat-blade screwdriver gently if they’re stuck.
- Remove the pad clips (hardware) from the caliper bracket using a flat-blade screwdriver or needle-nose pliers.
Step 5: Clean and prep the bracket
- Place a catch pan underneath.
- Spray the bracket and pad contact points with brake cleaner.
- Use a wire brush to remove rust where the pad clips sit.
- Install the new hardware clips by hand (they should snap/seat fully).
Step 6: Retract the rear caliper piston
- Look at the piston face (the round part that presses the inner pad).
- Most rear calipers on the Forte use a “push-and-turn” piston because the parking brake is built in.
- Path A (push-and-turn piston):
- Use a rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate and press the piston clockwise until it’s fully seated.
- Stop if it binds hard; re-check tool alignment.
- Path B (push-straight piston):
- Use a C-clamp 6-inch to slowly press the piston straight in.
- Watch the brake fluid level while compressing; if it rises too high, remove a little fluid carefully into the catch pan.
- Go slow to avoid seal damage.
Step 7: Lubricate the right places (not the friction)
- Apply a thin film of brake lubricant to the pad “ears” where they touch the clips.
- Apply a thin film of brake lubricant to the caliper slide pins if they are clean and move freely.
- Do not get grease on the pad friction surface or rotor face.
Step 8: Install the new pads
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand.
- If one pad has a wear indicator tab, install it in the same position as the old set (commonly the inner pad).
Step 9: Reinstall the caliper
- Lower the caliper back over the new pads.
- If it won’t fit, the piston is not fully retracted—use the wind-back tool (or C-clamp) again.
- Install the slide-pin bolts using a ratchet 3/8-inch drive and the correct metric socket set.
- Torque to 25 Nm (18 ft-lbs) for rear caliper slide-pin bolts.
- Torque wrench = tool that tightens to a set value.
Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts
- Install the wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the car off the stands using the floor jack.
- Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive with a 21mm socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 88-108 Nm (65-80 ft-lbs).
Step 11: Seat the pads before driving
- With the car on the ground, press the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it feels firm.
- Check brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
- Re-apply and release the parking brake a few times to confirm normal feel.
✅ After Repair
- 🔍 Test at low speed first: gentle braking in your driveway/parking lot.
- 🔍 Listen for scraping/grinding; stop and re-check work if heard.
- 🔍 Pad break-in: make 6-10 normal stops from ~30 mph, letting brakes cool a minute between stops. Avoid hard stops for 200 miles
- 🔍 Recheck lug nut torque after 25-50 miles using a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $50-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $110-$400 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.8 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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