How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016 Ford F-150
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2016 Ford F-150
Step-by-step instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
🔧 Rear Brake Pads - Replacement
Rear brake pad replacement on your F-150 means removing the rear caliper, swapping the pads, and making sure the caliper slides smoothly before reassembly. This is a good beginner job if you take your time and keep the brake parts clean.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- Work on level ground and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
- Use jack stands under the frame. Never rely on the jack alone.
- Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
- Keep grease and brake cleaner off the pad friction surface and rotor face.
- If the parking brake is hard to release, stop and verify it is fully released before disassembly.
- Let the brakes cool if the truck was driven recently.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated for truck weight)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm socket
- 13mm socket
- Ratchet
- Breaker bar
- Torque wrench
- C-clamp or brake piston compressor (specialty)
- Bungee cord or caliper hanger
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Wire brush
- Brake cleaner
- Microfiber towels
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper grease - Qty: 1 tube
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
- Break the rear lug nuts loose before lifting the truck.
- After lifting, support the axle or frame securely with jack stands.
- Replace brake pads in pairs on the same axle.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Remove the rear wheel
- Use the 21mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the lug nuts if needed, then remove them fully once the truck is supported.
- Take the wheel off and set it aside.
Step 2: Access the caliper
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver if needed to gently pry the caliper outboard for clearance.
- Inspect the rotor, pads, and caliper for leaks or damaged boots.
Step 3: Remove the caliper
- Use the 13mm socket and ratchet to remove the caliper slide pin bolts.
- Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord or caliper hanger.
- Do not let it hang by the hose.
Step 4: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Slide the old brake pads out of the bracket.
- Remove the old stainless hardware clips if your kit includes new ones.
- Use the wire brush to clean rust and debris from the pad lands.
Step 5: Compress the caliper piston
- Use a C-clamp or brake piston compressor (specialty) to push the caliper piston fully back into the bore.
- Move slowly and keep an eye on the brake fluid reservoir under the hood.
- If fluid is near the top, remove a little with a clean suction tool before compressing.
Step 6: Install the new pads and hardware
- Install the new pad clips from the rear brake pad hardware kit.
- Apply a thin layer of brake caliper grease to the pad ears and contact points only.
- Install the new pads into the bracket.
Step 7: Reinstall the caliper
- Place the caliper back over the new pads.
- Use the 13mm socket and ratchet to reinstall the slide pin bolts.
- Torque to 26 Nm (19 ft-lbs).
Step 8: Reinstall the wheel
- Put the wheel back on and hand-thread the lug nuts.
- Lower the truck enough for the tire to touch the ground, then use the 21mm socket and torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Repeat on the other side
- Replace the pads on the opposite rear wheel the same way.
- Always do both sides on the same axle.
✅ After Repair
- Before moving the truck, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
- Check the brake fluid level and top off if needed with the correct brake fluid.
- Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area first.
- Listen for rubbing or clunking and recheck your work if needed.
- Follow a gentle break-in for new pads with several moderate stops, not hard panic braking right away.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)
You Save: $190-$310 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.










