How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2015 Ford Focus (Disc or Drum Guide)
Step-by-step rear brake service with required tools/parts, torque specs, safety tips, and post-repair checks for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2015 Ford Focus (Disc or Drum Guide)
Step-by-step rear brake service with required tools/parts, torque specs, safety tips, and post-repair checks for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018
Assumption (best-effort): Your Focus has rear disc brakes. If your Focus has rear drum brakes, use the “Rear Drum Brake Shoes” path in the steps below.
🔧 Focus - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Replacing rear brake pads restores stopping power and prevents rotor damage when pads get thin. You’ll remove the rear caliper, swap the pads/hardware, then reassemble and check brake pedal feel.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.0–2.0 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- 🛑 Work on level ground and support the car with jack stands before going under or removing wheels.
- 🧤 Brake dust is harmful—wear a mask and avoid blowing dust with compressed air; use brake cleaner.
- 🔥 Brakes can be hot after driving—let everything cool before starting.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off the rotor.
- 🔒 Release the parking brake before removing rear calipers (rear brakes are linked to it).
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
- Breaker bar (1/2")
- Torque wrench (20–200 Nm range)
- 19mm socket
- 7mm hex bit socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm wrench
- Flat trim/pry tool
- C-clamp (6")
- Wire hook or bungee cord
- Brake cleaner spray
- Small wire brush
- Small turkey baster or fluid syringe
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake pad hardware/abutment clip kit - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant (silicone or synthetic caliper grease) - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1
- Brake fluid (DOT 4) - Qty: 1 (as needed)
📋 Before You Begin
- Park on level ground, put the transmission in gear, and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
- Release the parking brake fully (rear brakes won’t come apart correctly if it’s on).
- Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir; if it’s near “MAX,” remove a little fluid using a turkey baster (a suction tool) so it doesn’t overflow when you compress the caliper piston.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen lug nuts and raise the rear
- Use a 19mm socket and breaker bar to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while the car is on the ground.
- Lift the rear with a floor jack at the approved lift point and support with jack stands.
- Remove the wheels with the 19mm socket.
Step 2: Confirm rear brake type (disc vs drum)
- If you see a caliper squeezing a rotor (disc), continue to Step 3.
- If you see a closed “drum” with no caliper, skip to Step 10 (drum shoes path).
Step 3: Remove the caliper (disc brakes)
- Turn the steering wheel is not needed; you’re working at the rear.
- Use a 7mm hex bit socket to remove the two caliper slide pin bolts.
- Carefully lift the caliper off the bracket.
- Support the caliper with a wire hook or bungee cord—do not let it hang by the brake hose.
Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer pads out by hand; use a flat trim/pry tool if they’re stuck.
- Remove the stainless abutment clips (hardware) from the bracket using the flat trim/pry tool.
- Clean the pad contact surfaces on the bracket with brake cleaner spray and a small wire brush.
Step 5: Check slide pins
- Pull each slide pin out of the bracket by hand.
- Wipe off old grease, then apply a thin coat of brake lubricant and reinstall.
- Slide pins must move smoothly.
Step 6: Compress the caliper piston
- Place an old pad against the piston face.
- Use a C-clamp (6") to slowly press the piston back into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing; remove fluid with the turkey baster if it rises too high.
- Go slow to avoid damaging seals.
Step 7: Install new hardware and pads
- Install the new abutment clips onto the bracket by hand (they should snap in).
- Apply a very thin film of brake lubricant where the pad “ears” touch the clips (avoid pad friction material and rotor).
- Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
Step 8: Reinstall caliper and tighten bolts
- Lower the caliper over the new pads.
- Install the slide pin bolts using the 7mm hex bit socket.
- Torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
Step 9: Reinstall wheels
- Reinstall wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the car from the jack stands using the floor jack.
- Torque lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench: Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Rear Drum Brake Shoes path (only if your Focus has drums)
- Remove the drum. If stuck, use a flat trim/pry tool to remove the rubber access plug and back off the adjuster, then pull the drum off.
- Clean with brake cleaner spray; do not inhale dust.
- Important: Drum brakes use shoes (not pads). Replace shoes and the spring/hardware kit as a set.
- This job is more complex; take a photo before disassembly so you can match spring locations during reassembly.
✅ After Repair
- With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm (this seats the pistons).
- Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 4 if needed.
- Do a careful test drive: first at low speed, then moderate speed. Listen for grinding or pulling.
- Avoid hard stops for 200 miles.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250–$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $40–$120 (parts only)
You Save: $130–$410 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0–2.0 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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