🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads on your Outback. Rear pads wear down over time and should be replaced before they get thin enough to damage the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Your Outback uses an electronic parking brake, so the rear calipers must be placed into maintenance mode before pushing the pistons back.
• ⚠️ Do not force the rear caliper piston back without electronic parking brake service mode; this can damage the parking brake actuator.
• ⚠️ Work on level ground and support the vehicle with jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Wear safety glasses, gloves, and avoid blowing dust with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not normally required for this pad replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• OBD-II scan tool with electronic parking brake service mode (specialty)
• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 14mm socket
• 17mm open-end wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Small wire brush
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Outback on a flat, solid surface.
• Place the transmission in Park and do not apply the parking brake once service mode is started.
• Use wheel chocks in front of the front wheels.
• Connect an OBD-II scan tool with electronic parking brake service mode. An OBD-II scan tool plugs into the diagnostic port under the dashboard and can command vehicle systems safely.
• Use the scan tool to place the rear electronic parking brake into service or maintenance mode before removing the rear calipers.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is completely full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool to prevent overflow when compressing the calipers.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Put the Electronic Parking Brake in Service Mode

• Plug the OBD-II scan tool with electronic parking brake service mode into the diagnostic port under the driver-side dashboard.
• Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine.
• Use the scan tool menu and select Subaru > Parking Brake > Maintenance Mode / Pad Replacement Mode > Enter.
• Wait until the scan tool confirms the rear parking brake motors have retracted.
• Turn the ignition OFF after the scan tool confirms service mode is active.
• Listen for the motors stopping.

Step 2: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel lug nut about one turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.

Step 3: Raise and Support the Rear of the Vehicle

• Place the floor jack under the rear center jacking point.
• Lift the rear of your Outback high enough to install jack stands under the proper rear side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Give the vehicle a light push to make sure it is stable before working near the wheels.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 5: Remove the Rear Caliper Bolts

• Look at the back side of the rear caliper. The caliper is the part that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper slide pin bolts.
• If the slide pin turns with the bolt, hold the slide pin with a 17mm open-end wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.

Step 6: Lift Off the Caliper

• Carefully lift the caliper off the brake pads and rotor by hand.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
• Rest the caliper securely on the suspension arm, or support it with a safe hook if available.
• Never stretch the brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

• Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Remove the old metal pad clips from the bracket by hand or with the flathead screwdriver.
• The clips are small stainless guides that let the pads slide smoothly.

Step 8: Clean the Caliper Bracket

• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean dust and dirt from the caliper bracket.
• Use the small wire brush to clean the areas where the pad clips sit.
• Do not spray brake cleaner on painted body panels.

Step 9: Install the New Brake Hardware

• Press the new clips from the rear brake hardware kit into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Apply a very thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad contact points on the clips.
• Do not get lubricant on the rotor surface or brake pad friction material.
• Thin grease only, not globs.

Step 10: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

• Place the old brake pad against the caliper piston to spread pressure evenly.
• Use the brake caliper piston compression tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper bore.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. Stop if fluid is close to overflowing.
• Because the electronic parking brake is already in service mode, the piston should press back smoothly.

Step 11: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

• Slide the new rear brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure each pad sits flat in the new clips and can move slightly side to side.
• If a pad binds, remove it and check that the clip is seated correctly.

Step 12: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

• Set the caliper back over the new pads by hand.
• Install the upper and lower caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts.
• Hold the slide pin with the 17mm open-end wrench if it spins.
• Use the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench with the 14mm socket to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Repeat Steps 5 through 12 on the opposite rear wheel.
• Always replace rear brake pads in pairs so braking remains even.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Place each rear wheel back onto the hub by hand.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands and slowly lower the vehicle to the ground.
• Use the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Exit Electronic Parking Brake Service Mode

• Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine.
• Use the OBD-II scan tool with electronic parking brake service mode and select Subaru > Parking Brake > Maintenance Mode / Pad Replacement Mode > Exit.
• Wait for the scan tool to confirm normal parking brake operation has returned.
• Turn the ignition OFF, then unplug the scan tool.

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back out against the new pads.
• Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.

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✅ After Repair

• Check the brake fluid level and make sure it is between the MIN and MAX marks.
• Start your Outback and confirm the brake warning light and parking brake warning light turn off normally.
• Apply and release the electronic parking brake once to confirm it works correctly.
• Test drive slowly in a safe area and make several gentle stops.
• Bed in the new pads by making about 8-10 moderate stops from 30-40 mph, allowing short cooling time between stops.
• Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
• Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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