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2018 Hyundai Sonata
2015 - 2019 Hyundai Sonata
Eco Inline 4 1.6L
Compatible with more variants.

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  • Hyundai Sonata
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  • How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2015-2019 Hyundai Sonata (Trim: SE | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)
How to Replace Rear Brakes 2015-2019 Hyundai Sonata

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2015-2019 Hyundai Sonata

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

21mm
21mm
Deep Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
17mm
17mm
Combo Wrench
or (21/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
1/2
1/2
Breaker Bar
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2015-2019 Hyundai Sonata (Trim: SE | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2015-2019 Hyundai Sonata (Trim: SE | Engine: Inline 4 2.4L)

Step-by-step DIY instructions with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019

Orion
Orion

🔧 Sonata - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Sonata involves removing each rear caliper, compressing its piston, and installing new pads and hardware. The SE uses a conventional foot-operated parking brake, so no electronic parking-brake service mode or scan tool is required.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • Work on level, solid ground and support your Sonata with jack stands. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack.
  • Release the parking brake before removing the rear calipers. Chock both front wheels so the vehicle cannot move.
  • Replace rear brake pads on both sides, even if only one side appears worn.
  • Do not press the brake pedal while either caliper is removed.
  • Never let a caliper hang from its flexible brake hose.
  • Brake dust may be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
  • Battery disconnection is not required.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 21mm deep socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm combination wrench
  • 3/8-inch-drive ratchet
  • 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar
  • 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench rated 30-150 ft-lbs
  • 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench rated 10-50 ft-lbs
  • Disc brake piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Plastic trim pick
  • Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Rubber wheel chocks
  • Wire cleaning brush
  • Drain pan
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set for both sides
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 set
  • Silicone ceramic brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
  • Aerosol brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
  • DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle if needed

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Sonata on level pavement. Shift into Park, switch off the engine, and release the foot-operated parking brake completely.
  • Place rubber wheel chocks tightly against the front and rear of both front tires.
  • Open the hood and locate the brake-fluid reservoir. Clean around its cap with a shop towel before opening it.
  • If the fluid is near the MAX line, use a clean plastic trim pick only to lift the reservoir screen if necessary, then remove a small amount of fluid with the piston compression tool’s supplied syringe if equipped. Do not reuse removed fluid.
  • No infotainment menu, scan-tool command, battery disconnection, or electronic parking-brake service mode is required.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts

  • Keep the rear tires on the ground and use a 21mm deep socket with a 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-half turn.
  • Do not remove the wheel nuts yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear

  • Use the 2-ton floor jack at the approved rear-center lifting point, then place 2-ton jack stands beneath the reinforced rear side support points.
  • Lower your Sonata carefully onto the stands and gently verify that it is stable.
  • Keep the floor jack lightly touching the lift point.

Step 3: Remove Both Rear Wheels

  • Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and slide them underneath the side sills as an additional precaution.

Step 4: Inspect the Brake Assembly

  • Use a shop towel and aerosol brake cleaner over a drain pan to clean loose dirt from the caliper and pad area.
  • Inspect the flexible brake hose for cracks, wetness, swelling, or twisting.
  • Inspect both rotor faces. Deep grooves, blue heat spots, cracks, or a rotor below its stamped minimum thickness require rotor service before installing pads.

Step 5: Remove the First Rear Caliper

  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
  • If a guide pin turns with its bolt, hold the pin with a 17mm combination wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.
  • Lift the caliper from the bracket and support it with a brake caliper hanger. A caliper hanger is a hook that supports the caliper without stressing its hose.

Step 6: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware

  • Pull the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Use a plastic trim pick to remove the stainless-steel pad support clips without gouging the bracket.
  • Note the position of the pad wear indicator before discarding the old pads. Install the new indicator-equipped pad in the same position.
  • Check for uneven wear. One pad being much thinner usually indicates a sticking guide pin or pad support surface.

Step 7: Clean and Lubricate the Bracket

  • Use the wire cleaning brush and aerosol brake cleaner over the drain pan to clean the bracket surfaces beneath the support clips.
  • Install the new rear brake pad hardware by hand.
  • Apply a very thin film of silicone ceramic brake lubricant to the pad contact surfaces of the hardware.
  • Do not place lubricant on the rotor or pad friction material.

Step 8: Inspect the Caliper Guide Pins

  • Pull each guide pin from its rubber boot by hand, one at a time, so their positions are not mixed.
  • Wipe each pin with a shop towel. Replace damaged boots or corroded pins before continuing.
  • Apply a thin coating of silicone ceramic brake lubricant to each pin, then reinstall it by hand until the boot seats fully.
  • Confirm that both pins slide smoothly without binding.

Step 9: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place an old pad against the piston, then use the disc brake piston compression tool to push the piston straight and slowly into the caliper.
  • This piston presses straight inward; do not rotate it.
  • Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Stop if fluid approaches the top and remove the excess safely.
  • Inspect the piston dust boot and make sure it is not torn, twisted, or trapped.

Step 10: Install the New Pads

  • Install the new inner and outer pads into the bracket by hand, matching the original wear-indicator position.
  • Confirm that both pads move smoothly in the support clips without excessive looseness.
  • Do not force a tight pad into place. Remove it and clean corrosion beneath the hardware again.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Remove the brake caliper hanger and place the caliper over the new pads without twisting the hose.
  • Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
  • Hold the guide pin with the 17mm combination wrench if necessary, then use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch-drive torque wrench to tighten each guide-pin bolt to 21.6-31.4 Nm (16-23 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the Opposite Side

  • Use the same tools and repeat Steps 4 through 11 on the other rear brake assembly.
  • Compare the old pads from both sides. Significant uneven wear should be diagnosed before driving.

Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Clean the wheel-to-hub contact surfaces with the wire cleaning brush. Do not apply lubricant or anti-seize to the wheel studs.
  • Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
  • Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch-drive ratchet to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.

Step 14: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Wheels

  • Use the 2-ton floor jack to raise your Sonata slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tires contact the ground fully.
  • Use the 21mm deep socket and 1/2-inch-drive torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crisscross pattern to 108-127 Nm (80-94 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Restore Brake Pedal Pressure

  • Before starting the engine, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it becomes firm.
  • Use a shop towel to check the brake-fluid reservoir. Adjust the level between MIN and MAX using only fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid if required.
  • Install the reservoir cap securely by hand.

✅ After Repair

  • Start your Sonata while holding the brake pedal. Confirm that the pedal remains firm and no brake warning light stays illuminated.
  • Apply and release the parking brake several times to verify normal operation.
  • Check around both calipers and brake hoses for fluid leakage.
  • Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe, traffic-free area before normal driving.
  • Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 10 km/h. Allow about 30 seconds of driving between stops, and do not come to a complete stop with very hot brakes.
  • Drive for 10-15 minutes afterward without hard braking to let the brakes cool.
  • Recheck wheel-nut torque after approximately 80-100 km.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: ₹6,000-₹12,000 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: ₹2,500-₹6,000 (parts only)

You Save: ₹3,500-₹6,000 by doing it yourself!

Labor rates around Sonīpat vary by independent shop and dealership. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.


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