🔧 Mustang - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads on your Mustang. The rear brakes use an electronic parking brake, so the parking brake system must be placed into service mode before the calipers are removed.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool brake system. Hot rotors and calipers can burn you.
• ⚠️ Your Mustang has an electronic parking brake. Do not force the rear caliper pistons back unless the parking brake is in service mode.
• ⚠️ Support the car with jack stands before working underneath or near the wheels. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air. Use brake cleaner and a drain pan.
• ⚠️ Keep brake fluid off paint. It can damage painted surfaces quickly.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 21mm socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• Torque wrench (10-150 ft-lbs)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper hanger hook
• Disc brake pad spreader tool
• Brake cleaner
• Drain pan
• Wire brush
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• DOT 4 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Mustang on level ground.
• Leave the transmission in 1st gear and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Do not set the parking brake before lifting the rear of the car.
• Place the electronic parking brake into service mode before removing the rear calipers.
• A caliper is the clamp-shaped brake part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.
• A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel.
• A torque wrench tightens bolts to the correct tightness so they are not loose or overtightened.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Put the Parking Brake in Service Mode

• Sit in the driver seat and make sure the parking brake is released.
• Turn the ignition on without starting the engine.
• Press and hold the accelerator pedal fully down.
• Push the electronic parking brake switch down and hold it.
• While holding both, turn the ignition off, then turn it back on.
• Keep holding until the instrument cluster shows the parking brake is in maintenance or service mode.
• Release the pedal and switch.
• Listen for the rear motors moving.

Step 2: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use the 21mm socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.

Step 3: Lift and Support the Rear of the Car

• Use the floor jack at the rear jacking point to raise the rear of your Mustang.
• Place jack stands under the approved rear support points.
• Lower the car gently onto the jack stands.
• Shake the car lightly by hand to confirm it is stable before removing the wheels.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 21mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 5: Inspect the Brake Fluid Level

• Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir.
• Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• If the reservoir is full, remove a small amount with a clean fluid-safe suction tool so it does not overflow when the caliper piston is pushed back.
• Keep the cap loosely installed to reduce contamination.

Step 6: Remove the Rear Caliper Bolts

• Work on one side at a time so the other side can be used as a reference.
• Use the 15mm wrench to hold the caliper slide pin steady.
• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower rear caliper bolts.
• A slide pin lets the caliper move side to side as the pads wear.

Step 7: Lift Off the Caliper

• Use the flathead screwdriver gently between the old pad and rotor if the caliper is snug.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor.
• Hang the caliper with the brake caliper hanger hook.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 8: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware

• Pull the old pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use the flathead screwdriver to remove the old stainless pad clips from the bracket.
• Use the wire brush to clean the bracket where the clips sit.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner and catch runoff in the drain pan.

Step 9: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Install the disc brake pad spreader tool inside the caliper.
• Slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper bore.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston.
• Stop if fluid approaches the top of the reservoir.
• Go slow to protect seals.

Step 10: Install New Hardware and Pads

• Install the new rear brake hardware clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad ears where they touch the clips.
• Do not put lubricant on the pad friction surface or rotor.
• Install the new rear brake pads into the bracket.
• The friction material must face the rotor.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
• Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to install the caliper bolts.
• Use the 15mm wrench to hold each slide pin while tightening.
• Use the torque wrench with the 13mm socket and tighten the rear caliper bolts to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 6 through 11 on the other rear brake.
• Use the same 13mm socket, 15mm wrench, flathead screwdriver, wire brush, and disc brake pad spreader tool.
• Replace rear brake pads in pairs only.

Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Place each rear wheel back onto the hub.
• Thread the lug nuts on by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 21mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 14: Lower the Car and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to raise the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Mustang to the ground.
• Use the torque wrench with the 21mm socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Exit Parking Brake Service Mode

• Turn the ignition on without starting the engine.
• Press and hold the brake pedal.
• Pull up and hold the electronic parking brake switch.
• Turn the ignition off, then back on while holding the switch and brake pedal.
• Keep holding until the cluster message clears and the parking brake motors finish moving.
• Release the switch and brake pedal.

Step 16: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before driving, press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
• This seats the caliper pistons against the new pads.
• Use safety glasses and check the brake fluid level.
• Add DOT 4 brake fluid if needed to bring it to the correct mark.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your Mustang and make sure the brake warning light is off.
• ✅ Test the brake pedal before moving. It should feel firm, not soft or sinking.
• ✅ Apply and release the electronic parking brake once to confirm normal operation.
• ✅ Perform a slow test drive in a safe area.
• ✅ Bed in the pads with several gentle stops from moderate speed. Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck the brake fluid level after the test drive.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after about 50 miles: Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$330 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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