🔧 Rear Brake Pads - Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Equinox means removing the rear caliper, swapping the old pads for new ones, and making sure the caliper piston is pushed back smoothly before reassembly. This is a good time to inspect the rotors, slide pins, and pad hardware for wear or sticking.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• Work on a flat surface and chock the front wheels before lifting the rear.
• Support the vehicle with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• Let the brakes cool before starting. Hot brakes can burn you.
• Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
• If your brake fluid reservoir is full, watch for overflow when compressing the caliper piston.
• No battery disconnect is required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (pair)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug wrench or socket
• 15mm socket
• 13mm socket
• Ratchet
• Torque wrench
• Bungee cord or caliper hanger
• C-clamp
• Brake pad spreader or piston compression tool (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner
• Shop towels
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
• Brake grease - Qty: 1 packet

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and set the parking brake.
• Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• Lift the rear and support both sides with jack stands.
• Remove both rear wheels for easier access and to keep pad wear even.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Remove the rear wheel

• Use a 19mm lug wrench or socket to remove the lug nuts and take off the rear wheel.
• Set the wheel aside flat so it does not roll away.

Step 2: Remove the caliper bolts

• Use a 15mm socket and ratchet to remove the lower and upper caliper slide bolts.
• Lift the caliper off the rotor carefully.
• Hang the caliper with a bungee cord or caliper hanger so the brake hose is not stretched.

Step 3: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Slide the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket.
• Remove the pad clips and hardware with a flat-blade screwdriver if they are being replaced.
• Check the rotor surface for deep grooves, cracks, or heavy rust.

Step 4: Inspect and clean the bracket

• Use a wire brush to clean rust and scale from the pad lands and bracket contact points.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner and wipe it dry with shop towels.
• Apply a thin film of brake grease to the pad contact points and slide-pin contact areas only.

Step 5: Compress the caliper piston

• Use a brake pad spreader or piston compression tool (specialty) to push the caliper piston fully back into the bore.
• If needed, use a C-clamp with an old pad to apply steady pressure.
• Go slow to keep the piston straight.

Step 6: Install the new pads and hardware

• Install the new pad hardware clips into the bracket.
• Place the new inner and outer pads into position.
• Make sure the pads sit fully and move freely in the bracket.

Step 7: Reinstall the caliper

• Lower the caliper over the new pads and rotor.
• Use a 13mm socket or the original caliper bolt tool size on your caliper guide pins if equipped differently on your vehicle.
• Torque to 31 Nm (23 ft-lbs) for the rear caliper guide pin bolts.

Step 8: Reinstall the wheel

• Put the wheel back on and hand-start all lug nuts.
• Use a 19mm lug wrench or socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 140 Nm (103 ft-lbs) for the wheel lug nuts.

Step 9: Repeat on the other side

• Replace rear pads in pairs so braking stays balanced.
• Use the same steps on the opposite side.

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✅ After Repair

• Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
• Check the brake fluid level and top off only if needed.
• Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area.
• Listen for rubbing or clicking that could mean a pad is not seated correctly.
• For the first 200-300 miles, avoid hard stops so the new pads can bed in properly.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $60-$140 (parts only)

You Save: $190-$310 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.