How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2014-2020 Chevrolet Impala (Trim: LT)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, safety tips, and torque specs for 2014
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2014-2020 Chevrolet Impala (Trim: LT)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, safety tips, and torque specs for 2014
🔧 Impala - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Replacing the rear brake pads requires removing each rear caliper, rotating the caliper piston inward, and installing new pads and hardware. Your Impala uses a cable-operated electronic parking-brake system, so the parking brake must remain released throughout the repair.
Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Support your Impala with jack stands. Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Release the electronic parking brake before raising the vehicle. Do not operate its switch while either caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Chock both front wheels because the parking brake cannot remain engaged.
- ⚠️ Replace rear brake pads on both sides to maintain balanced braking.
- ⚠️ Brake dust may be harmful. Do not use compressed air or inhale the dust.
- ⚠️ Do not let a caliper hang from its flexible brake hose.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnection and scan-tool parking-brake service mode are not required for this cable-operated system.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 22mm deep socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm open-end wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 20-150 ft-lbs
- Rear disc brake piston wind-back tool (specialty)
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Plastic trim tool
- Nylon brake-cleaning brush
- Drain pan
- Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
- Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
- Rubber wheel chocks
- Caliper hanger hook
- Safety glasses
- Nitrile gloves
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 set; replace both sides
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1 set
- High-temperature ceramic brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube
- Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
📋 Before You Begin
- 📋 Park your Impala on firm, level ground. Shift into Park and switch off the ignition.
- 📋 With your foot on the brake pedal, release the electronic parking brake using the center-console switch. Confirm the parking-brake warning light turns off.
- 📋 Place rubber wheel chocks firmly in front of and behind both front tires.
- 📋 Open the hood and check the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is at the MAX line, remove a small amount before retracting the pistons to prevent overflow.
- 📋 Do not disconnect the battery or activate the parking-brake switch during this repair.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Nuts
- Use a 22mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut approximately one-quarter turn.
- Do not completely remove the wheel nuts while your Impala is on the ground.
Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear
- Use the floor jack at the specified rear lifting point, then position the jack stands beneath the reinforced rear side support points.
- Lower your Impala carefully onto the jack stands and leave the floor jack lightly touching the lifting point as a backup.
- Gently push the body to confirm it is stable before continuing.
Step 3: Remove Both Rear Wheels
- Use the 22mm deep socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the wheel nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and place them flat away from the work area.
Step 4: Inspect the Brakes
- Use the safety glasses and nitrile gloves while checking both rear rotors for deep grooves, heat cracks, heavy rust, or a pronounced outer lip.
- Check the calipers, flexible hoses, and bleeder areas for wet brake-fluid leakage.
- If a rotor is below its stamped minimum thickness or damaged, replace both rear rotors before installing new pads.
Step 5: Remove the First Caliper
- Use the 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
- If a guide pin turns with the bolt, hold its flats with the 15mm open-end wrench while using the 13mm socket.
- Lift the caliper from the bracket. Use the caliper hanger hook to support it from the suspension.
- Do not pull, twist, or place weight on the flexible brake hose.
Step 6: Remove the Old Pads and Hardware
- Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to slide the inner and outer pads from the caliper bracket.
- Use the plastic trim tool to remove the stainless-steel pad abutment clips. These clips support the pad ends inside the bracket.
- Place the drain pan beneath the brake assembly.
- Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner and the nylon brake-cleaning brush to clean the bracket’s clip seats and surrounding brake dust.
- Do not spray lubricant onto the rotor or pad friction surfaces.
Step 7: Retract the Caliper Piston
- Use the rear disc brake piston wind-back tool to press and rotate the piston clockwise until it is fully seated. A wind-back tool turns the threaded parking-brake piston while pushing it inward.
- Work slowly and monitor the brake-fluid reservoir so it does not overflow.
- Stop if the piston binds, the dust boot twists, or fluid leaks from the caliper.
- Align the piston face so the new inner pad’s locating feature seats correctly against it.
- Rotate slowly to protect the piston boot.
Step 8: Install New Hardware and Pads
- Use the plastic trim tool to press the new abutment clips fully into the cleaned caliper bracket.
- Use a gloved fingertip to apply a thin film of high-temperature ceramic brake lubricant where the pad ears contact the clips.
- Install the inner and outer pads by hand with their friction material facing the rotor.
- Do not place lubricant on the rotor, friction material, or caliper piston boot.
- Confirm both pads slide freely without excessive looseness.
Step 9: Reinstall the Caliper
- Remove the caliper hanger hook and lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
- Do not force the caliper into position. Confirm the piston is fully retracted if clearance is insufficient.
- Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent cross-threading.
- Hold the guide-pin flats with the 15mm open-end wrench if necessary, then tighten the bolts using the 13mm socket and torque wrench.
- Torque the rear caliper guide-pin bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft-lbs).
Step 10: Repeat on the Opposite Side
- Use the same listed tools and repeat Steps 5 through 9 on the other rear brake assembly.
- Compare the old pads. Strongly uneven wear may indicate a seized guide pin or sticking caliper that must be repaired before driving.
Step 11: Clean the Rotors
- Use non-chlorinated brake cleaner and the nylon brake-cleaning brush to clean both sides of each rotor where accessible.
- Allow the cleaner to evaporate completely before installing the wheels.
Step 12: Reinstall the Wheels
- Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
- Use the 22mm deep socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the nuts in a crossing pattern.
- Use the floor jack to raise your Impala slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it until the tires touch the ground.
- Use the 22mm deep socket and torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a crossing pattern.
- Torque the wheel nuts to 140 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 13: Restore Brake Pedal Pressure
- With the engine off, press and release the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
- Do not move your Impala until the brake pedal is firm.
- Check the reservoir and adjust the brake-fluid level to the MAX mark if necessary.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start the engine and hold firm pressure on the brake pedal. Confirm the pedal does not sink steadily.
- ✅ Apply and release the electronic parking brake once. Confirm the warning light operates normally.
- ✅ Check around both rear calipers and hoses for brake-fluid leaks.
- ✅ Test the brakes at walking speed in a safe, traffic-free area before normal driving.
- ✅ Bed in the pads with 8-10 moderate stops from approximately 50 km/h to 10 km/h. Allow about 30 seconds between stops and avoid holding the hot brakes at a complete stop.
- ✅ Avoid panic stops and heavy braking for the first 300 km unless needed for safety.
- ✅ Recheck wheel-nut torque after approximately 80-160 km.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹12,000-₹25,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹4,500-₹10,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹7,500-₹15,000 by doing it yourself!
Local labor and imported-part prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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