🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Highlander means removing the rear calipers, swapping the worn pads, cleaning and lubricating the slide hardware, then reinstalling everything safely. Your Highlander uses a foot-operated parking brake with a small drum brake inside the rear rotor, so the rear caliper piston presses straight in and does not need to be twisted.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Work on a flat, solid surface only.
• 🛑 Do not rely on a jack alone. Always support your Highlander with jack stands.
• 🛑 Keep the parking brake released while servicing the rear brakes.
• 🛑 Chock the front wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air; use brake cleaner.
• 🛑 Brake fluid can overflow when compressing the caliper piston. Check the brake fluid reservoir first.
• 🛑 Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 21mm lug nut socket
• 14mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• Torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
• Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
• Floor jack rated 3-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 3-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Brake parts cleaning brush
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
• High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1 tube

---

📋 Before You Begin

• ✅ Park your Highlander on level ground.
• ✅ Put the transmission in Park.
• ✅ Release the foot-operated parking brake.
• ✅ Place wheel chocks tightly in front of and behind the front tires.
• ✅ Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is very full, remove a small amount with a clean syringe or turkey baster before pushing the caliper pistons in.
• ✅ A caliper piston is the round metal piece inside the brake caliper that pushes the brake pad against the rotor.
• ✅ Replace rear brake pads as a full axle set, meaning both rear wheels get new pads at the same time.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
• Do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Highlander at the rear center jacking point.
• Place the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum under the proper rear support points.
• Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands.
• Gently shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working near the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
• Slide one wheel under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Rear Brake Setup

• Look at the brake caliper, brake pads, rotor, and rubber brake hose.
• Use safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean heavy dust around the caliper area.
• Do not spray brake cleaner on painted surfaces.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Slide Pin Bolt

• A slide pin lets the caliper move slightly so both brake pads apply evenly.
• Use the 17mm wrench to hold the slide pin steady.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt.
• If the pin spins, keep holding it with the 17mm wrench while loosening the bolt.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

• Use your hand to swing the caliper upward from the bottom.
• If it sticks, use the flathead screwdriver gently between the old pad and rotor to create a little space.
• Do not pull, kink, or stretch the rubber brake hose.
• Use the brake caliper hanger hook to support the caliper from the suspension spring or nearby bracket.

Step 7: Remove the Old Rear Brake Pads

• Use your hands to slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• If a pad is stuck, use the flathead screwdriver to gently pry it loose.
• Take note of pad position before removal.
• The wear indicator tab, if equipped, should match the position of the old pad.

Step 8: Remove and Replace the Pad Hardware

• Pad hardware means the small stainless clips that the brake pads slide on.
• Use the flathead screwdriver to pop the old hardware clips out of the caliper bracket.
• Use the brake parts cleaning brush and brake cleaner to clean the bracket contact areas.
• Install the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips by pressing them fully into place by hand.
• Clean clips help prevent squeaks.

Step 9: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use the brake caliper compression tool to slowly press the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this. Stop if fluid rises near the top.
• Do not twist the piston. On your Highlander, it presses straight in.

Step 10: Lubricate the Contact Points

• Use high-temperature brake lubricant on the pad ears where they touch the new hardware clips.
• Use only a thin film of lubricant.
• Do not get lubricant on the brake pad friction surface or rotor face.
• If lubricant touches the rotor, clean it with brake cleaner and shop towels.

Step 11: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

• Slide the new inner and outer rear brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads move smoothly in the hardware clips.
• If they bind, remove them and check that the hardware clips are fully seated.
• Pads should slide, not rattle.

Step 12: Lower the Caliper Over the New Pads

• Remove the brake caliper hanger hook.
• Carefully swing the caliper down over the new pads.
• If the caliper will not fit, use the brake caliper compression tool to press the piston in a little farther.

Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper Slide Pin Bolt

• Start the lower slide pin bolt by hand to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 17mm wrench to hold the slide pin steady.
• Use the 14mm socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the slide pin bolt.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Move to the other rear wheel.
• Use the same tools and repeat Steps 4 through 13.
• Always replace both rear sides together for even braking.

Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Place each rear wheel back onto the hub.
• Thread the lug nuts on by hand first.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• A star pattern means tightening across the wheel instead of going around in a circle.

Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 3-ton minimum to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 3-ton minimum.
• Lower your Highlander until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 21mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated 10-150 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before moving the vehicle, sit in the driver seat.
• Press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
• Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and make sure it is between the MIN and MAX marks.
• ✅ Start your Highlander and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm and normal.
• ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area first.
• ✅ Listen for grinding, scraping, or clunking. Stop and inspect if anything sounds wrong.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads with 8-10 gentle stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph. Do not slam on the brakes.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless it is an emergency.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.