🔧 Forester - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

Replacing the rear brake pads on your Forester means removing the rear wheels, opening each rear caliper, swapping the pads, and safely compressing the caliper piston. This restores braking performance and prevents the pads from wearing down into the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

---

⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands under the vehicle before removing any wheel.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful; do not blow it with compressed air.
• ⚠️ The rear parking brake on your Forester uses separate drum-style parking brake shoes inside the rear rotor hat, so normal rear pad replacement does not require electronic parking brake service mode.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint. Keep the reservoir covered and wipe spills immediately.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

---

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm lug nut socket
• 14mm socket
• 14mm wrench
• 3/8-inch ratchet
• Torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs
• Flathead screwdriver
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
• Brake parts cleaning brush
• Wire brush
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

---

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake pad anti-squeal lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1

---

📋 Before You Begin

• 🚗 Park your Forester on level ground.
• 🚗 Put the manual transmission in 1st gear.
• 🚗 Chock both front wheels with wheel chocks so the vehicle cannot roll.
• 🚗 Release the parking brake before removing the rear calipers. The parking brake works inside the rear rotor, but releasing it prevents drag while you work.
• 🚗 Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting the vehicle.
• 🚗 Open the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood. Lay shop towels around it in case fluid rises when you compress the caliper pistons.
• 🚗 A caliper is the clamp-like part that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
• 🚗 A slide pin is a smooth pin that lets the caliper move side-to-side as the pads wear.

---

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the rear tires are still touching the ground.
• Do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Forester at the rear differential lift point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the rear side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching as a backup, but do not use it as the main support.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
• Slide one wheel under the side of the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Rear Brake Assembly

• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean loose dust from the caliper area.
• Look at the rotor surface. Deep grooves, heavy rust, or a pulsing brake pedal usually means the rotors should be replaced or resurfaced.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Bolt

• Use a 14mm wrench to hold the slide pin if it tries to spin.
• Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lower rear caliper bolt.
• Keep the bolt clean and set it aside.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

• Use your hand to rotate the caliper upward away from the brake pads.
• If it is stuck, use a flathead screwdriver gently between the caliper and pad to create a small gap.
• Do not pull hard on the rubber brake hose.
• Support the caliper gently.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Use your hands to slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• If the pads are stuck, use a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry them out.
• Notice how the wear indicator is positioned before removal. The wear indicator is the small metal tab that squeals when pads are worn low.

Step 8: Remove and Clean the Pad Hardware

• Use a flathead screwdriver to pop the old stainless pad clips out of the caliper bracket.
• Use a wire brush and brake parts cleaning brush to clean rust from the bracket where the clips sit.
• Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe it dry with shop towels.
• Clean metal contact points help the new pads slide freely.

Step 9: Install the New Hardware

• Use your hands to snap the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket.
• Make sure each clip sits fully flat in the bracket.
• Apply a very thin layer of brake pad anti-squeal lubricant to the pad ears only. The pad ears are the small tabs on each end of the brake pad backing plate.
• Do not get grease on the friction surface of the pads or rotor.

Step 10: Check and Grease the Slide Pins

• Use your hand to pull the slide pins out of the caliper bracket one at a time.
• Wipe each pin with shop towels.
• Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease to each pin.
• Push each pin back in and make sure it moves smoothly.
• If a rubber boot is torn or a pin is badly rusty, replace the damaged part before driving.

Step 11: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

• Use your hands to slide the new inner and outer brake pads into the caliper bracket.
• Make sure the pads move slightly by hand and are not jammed tight.
• Install the wear indicator in the same general position as the original pad.

Step 12: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a C-clamp 6-inch or brake caliper piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Remove excess fluid with clean shop towels only if it approaches the top.
• Compress slowly to avoid damaging the brake hydraulic system.

Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper

• Rotate the caliper back down over the new brake pads by hand.
• Make sure the rubber slide pin boots are not twisted.
• Use the 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to install the lower caliper bolt.
• Use the 14mm wrench to hold the slide pin if needed.
• Tighten the rear caliper slide bolt with a torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs: Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

• Use the same 14mm socket, 14mm wrench, flathead screwdriver, and cleaning tools on the other rear brake.
• Always replace rear brake pads in pairs, left and right.

Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Place each rear wheel back onto the hub by hand.
• Thread the lug nuts on by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower your Forester until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the torque wrench 10-100 ft-lbs and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before starting or driving, press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
• Check the brake fluid level and reinstall the reservoir cap by hand.
• Never skip this step.

---

✅ After Repair

• ✅ Start your Forester and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm, not sink to the floor.
• ✅ Check behind both rear wheels for brake fluid leaks.
• ✅ Test drive slowly in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Bed in the new pads with several gentle stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing a short cool-down between stops.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

---

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

---

🎯 Ready to get started?

HowToo makes it easy: same-day/2-day shipping on every part, plus all the tools and specialty tools you need! Check out the parts and tools sections below to add everything to your cart.