How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2013 Toyota Highlander
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2013 Toyota Highlander
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013
🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
This repair replaces the rear disc brake pads on your Highlander. The rear parking brake uses a separate drum-style mechanism inside the rotor, so you do not need an electronic parking brake service mode.
Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
- ⚠️ Use jack stands before putting any part of your body near the wheel area.
- ⚠️ Rear brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it off with compressed air.
- ⚠️ The brake pedal will feel soft after installation until you pump it several times.
- ⚠️ Brake cleaner is flammable. Keep it away from sparks, flames, and hot parts.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear brake pad replacement.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 21mm lug nut socket
- 14mm socket
- 3/8-inch ratchet
- 3/8-inch torque wrench
- Flat-head screwdriver
- Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
- Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
- Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
- Brake cleaner spray
- Shop towels
- Wire brush
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Highlander on level ground.
- Place the transmission in Park.
- Do not set the parking brake, because the rear brakes are being serviced.
- Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
- Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is completely full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper piston.
- A caliper piston compressor tool slowly pushes the brake piston back into the caliper so the new thicker pads will fit.
- A caliper hanger hook supports the caliper so the brake hose is not stretched.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the rear lug nuts
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet to loosen each rear wheel lug nut about half a turn.
- Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
- Loosen only; do not remove yet.
Step 2: Raise and support the rear of the Highlander
- Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Highlander at a solid rear jacking point.
- Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the rear support points.
- Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
- Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before removing the wheels.
Step 3: Remove the rear wheels
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.
Step 4: Remove the rear caliper lower bolt
- Look at the rear brake caliper. The caliper is the clamp-shaped part that holds the brake pads against the rotor.
- Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt.
- If needed, use the 14mm socket to remove the upper caliper slide pin bolt too.
- Factory-style rear caliper slide pin bolts are tightened to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) during reassembly.
Step 5: Swing the caliper up or remove it
- Use your hands to swing the caliper upward off the brake pads.
- If the caliper will not swing freely, remove the upper bolt with the 14mm socket.
- Hang the caliper from the suspension using a brake caliper hanger hook.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
Step 6: Remove the old rear brake pads
- Slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
- If they are stuck, gently pry them out with a flat-head screwdriver.
- Note the position of any wear indicator tab before removing the pads. The wear indicator is the small metal tab that squeals when pads are worn.
Step 7: Remove and clean the pad hardware
- Remove the old stainless pad clips from the caliper bracket by hand or with a flat-head screwdriver.
- Use a wire brush to clean the bracket where the clips sit.
- Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe it dry with shop towels.
- Clean brackets help prevent brake noise.
Step 8: Install the new brake pad hardware
- Install the new rear brake pad hardware clips by hand into the caliper bracket.
- Make sure each clip sits flat and fully snapped into place.
- Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant only where the pad ears touch the clips.
- Do not get lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor surface.
Step 9: Compress the rear caliper piston
- Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
- Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. Stop if fluid gets close to overflowing.
- This rear caliper piston presses straight in; it does not need to be rotated.
Step 10: Install the new rear brake pads
- Slide the new rear brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure the friction material faces the rotor.
- The pads should move smoothly in the clips without being loose.
- If a pad is tight, remove it and clean the bracket again with the wire brush.
Step 11: Reinstall the rear caliper
- Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
- Start the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the 14mm socket to snug the bolts.
- Use the 3/8-inch torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side
- Repeat Steps 4 through 11 on the other rear wheel.
- Always replace rear brake pads in pairs so braking stays even.
Step 13: Reinstall the rear wheels
- Place each wheel back on the hub by hand.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 14: Lower the Highlander and torque the lug nuts
- Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the rear slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
- Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
- Use the 3/8-inch torque wrench and 21mm lug nut socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Pump the brake pedal
- Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
- The pedal will travel low at first, then become firm.
- Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.
✅ After Repair
- Check the brake fluid reservoir and make sure the level is between MIN and MAX.
- Start your Highlander and press the brake pedal again to confirm it feels firm.
- Test drive slowly in a safe area first.
- Make several gentle stops from low speed before normal driving.
- For the first 100-200 miles, avoid hard braking unless needed for safety.
- After the test drive, recheck for abnormal noise, burning smell, or uneven braking.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $175-$260 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
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