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2013 Toyota Highlander
2008 - 2013 Toyota Highlander
V6 3.5L
Compatible with more variants.

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REAR BRAKE REPLACEMENT 2008-2013 TOYOTA HIGHLANDER - JOETHEAUTOGUY

REAR BRAKE REPLACEMENT 2008-2013 TOYOTA HIGHLANDER - JOETHEAUTOGUY

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

21mm
21mm
Socket
or (13/16")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
3/8
3/8
Torque Wrench
Flathead
Flathead
Screwdriver
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2013 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2013 Toyota Highlander

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013

Orion
Orion

🔧 Highlander - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear disc brake pads on your Highlander. The rear parking brake uses a separate drum-style mechanism inside the rotor, so you do not need an electronic parking brake service mode.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface only. Never rely on a jack by itself.
  • ⚠️ Use jack stands before putting any part of your body near the wheel area.
  • ⚠️ Rear brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it off with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ The brake pedal will feel soft after installation until you pump it several times.
  • ⚠️ Brake cleaner is flammable. Keep it away from sparks, flames, and hot parts.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear brake pad replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 21mm lug nut socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • 3/8-inch torque wrench
  • Flat-head screwdriver
  • Brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
  • Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Wire brush

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake lubricant - Qty: 1
  • Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • Park your Highlander on level ground.
  • Place the transmission in Park.
  • Do not set the parking brake, because the rear brakes are being serviced.
  • Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
  • Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is completely full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper piston.
  • A caliper piston compressor tool slowly pushes the brake piston back into the caliper so the new thicker pads will fit.
  • A caliper hanger hook supports the caliper so the brake hose is not stretched.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear lug nuts

  • Use a 21mm lug nut socket and ratchet to loosen each rear wheel lug nut about half a turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
  • Loosen only; do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and support the rear of the Highlander

  • Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Highlander at a solid rear jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the rear support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before removing the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the rear caliper lower bolt

  • Look at the rear brake caliper. The caliper is the clamp-shaped part that holds the brake pads against the rotor.
  • Use a 14mm socket and ratchet to remove the lower caliper slide pin bolt.
  • If needed, use the 14mm socket to remove the upper caliper slide pin bolt too.
  • Factory-style rear caliper slide pin bolts are tightened to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs) during reassembly.

Step 5: Swing the caliper up or remove it

  • Use your hands to swing the caliper upward off the brake pads.
  • If the caliper will not swing freely, remove the upper bolt with the 14mm socket.
  • Hang the caliper from the suspension using a brake caliper hanger hook.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the old rear brake pads

  • Slide the old brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
  • If they are stuck, gently pry them out with a flat-head screwdriver.
  • Note the position of any wear indicator tab before removing the pads. The wear indicator is the small metal tab that squeals when pads are worn.

Step 7: Remove and clean the pad hardware

  • Remove the old stainless pad clips from the caliper bracket by hand or with a flat-head screwdriver.
  • Use a wire brush to clean the bracket where the clips sit.
  • Spray the area with brake cleaner spray and wipe it dry with shop towels.
  • Clean brackets help prevent brake noise.

Step 8: Install the new brake pad hardware

  • Install the new rear brake pad hardware clips by hand into the caliper bracket.
  • Make sure each clip sits flat and fully snapped into place.
  • Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant only where the pad ears touch the clips.
  • Do not get lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor surface.

Step 9: Compress the rear caliper piston

  • Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Use a brake caliper piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston fully back into the caliper.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. Stop if fluid gets close to overflowing.
  • This rear caliper piston presses straight in; it does not need to be rotated.

Step 10: Install the new rear brake pads

  • Slide the new rear brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Make sure the friction material faces the rotor.
  • The pads should move smoothly in the clips without being loose.
  • If a pad is tight, remove it and clean the bracket again with the wire brush.

Step 11: Reinstall the rear caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
  • Start the caliper slide pin bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 14mm socket to snug the bolts.
  • Use the 3/8-inch torque wrench and 14mm socket to tighten the caliper slide pin bolts to Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the other rear side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 11 on the other rear wheel.
  • Always replace rear brake pads in pairs so braking stays even.

Step 13: Reinstall the rear wheels

  • Place each wheel back on the hub by hand.
  • Install the lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 14: Lower the Highlander and torque the lug nuts

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to raise the rear slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower the vehicle until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use the 3/8-inch torque wrench and 21mm lug nut socket to tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 103 Nm (76 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Pump the brake pedal

  • Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
  • The pedal will travel low at first, then become firm.
  • Do not drive until the brake pedal feels firm.

✅ After Repair

  • Check the brake fluid reservoir and make sure the level is between MIN and MAX.
  • Start your Highlander and press the brake pedal again to confirm it feels firm.
  • Test drive slowly in a safe area first.
  • Make several gentle stops from low speed before normal driving.
  • For the first 100-200 miles, avoid hard braking unless needed for safety.
  • After the test drive, recheck for abnormal noise, burning smell, or uneven braking.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$260 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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