🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This is a solid intermediate DIY job, and careful setup matters more than brute force. Replace the pads on both rear wheels, inspect both rotors, lubricate the caliper slide points, and compress each piston slowly. The rear brake parts aisle is open beside this guide.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

Assumption: This procedure covers the standard factory rear disc brakes on your Explorer.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Explorer with jack stands.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing the rear calipers.
• ⚠️ Chock both front wheels because the parking brake must remain released.
• ⚠️ Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
• ⚠️ Never press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Hang the caliper securely. Never let it dangle from its rubber brake hose.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it away with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid damages paint. Clean spills immediately.
• ⚠️ A battery disconnect is not required for this pad-only repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 19mm lug-nut socket
• 13mm socket
• 15mm open-end wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-100 ft-lbs
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 50-150 ft-lbs
• Rear brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
• Medium flat-blade screwdriver
• Small nylon cleaning brush
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Rubber wheel chocks
• Caliper hanger hook
• Brake-pad thickness gauge
• Nitrile mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1 axle set
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Silicone ceramic brake lubricant - Qty: 1 packet or tube
• Aerosol brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
• DOT 4 low-viscosity brake fluid - Qty: 1 small sealed bottle, only if topping up is necessary

Replace rear pads as a complete axle set, never one wheel at a time. Ford specifies brake fluid meeting WSS-M6C65-A2 when fluid is needed. fordservicecontent.com

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📋 Park your Explorer on level pavement and shift the transmission into Park.
• 📋 Switch off the engine, release the parking brake, and keep the key away from the vehicle.
• 📋 Place wheel chocks firmly ahead of and behind both front tires.
• 📋 Open the hood and inspect the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is near MAX, remove a small amount before compressing the pistons.
• 📋 Loosen each rear lug nut about one-quarter turn while both tires remain on the ground.
• 📋 Compare the new pads and hardware with the removed parts before installation.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Raise and support the rear

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum at an approved rear lifting point.
• Place the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum beneath the approved support points.
• Lower your Explorer gently onto the stands and give the body a cautious stability check.
• Leave the floor jack lightly touching its lifting point as backup support.

Step 2: Remove both rear wheels

• Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and breaker bar to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and slide them underneath the rocker-panel area as additional protection.
• Keep each wheel's lug nuts together.

Step 3: Inspect the brakes before disassembly

• Use the brake-pad thickness gauge to compare the inner and outer pads on both sides.
• Check each rotor for deep grooves, cracks, heavy rust, blue heat spots, or a pronounced outer lip.
• Check the calipers and rubber hoses for wet brake-fluid leakage.
• If one pad is considerably thinner than its partner, investigate seized slide pins or a sticking piston before fitting new pads.

Step 4: Remove the first rear caliper

• Work on one side at a time so the assembled side remains a reference.
• Use the 13mm socket to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
• If a guide pin turns, hold its flats with the 15mm open-end wrench.
• Lift the caliper away from the rotor without pulling or twisting the brake hose.
• Support it with the caliper hanger hook.
• Brake hoses make terrible caliper hangers.

Step 5: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Use the medium flat-blade screwdriver to ease the inner and outer pads from the bracket.
• Note the position of any wear indicator before removing the pads.
• Remove the stainless abutment clips from the bracket. Abutment clips are the small metal tracks supporting the pad ends.
• Do not remove the caliper bracket unless the rotors are also being replaced.

Step 6: Clean the bracket and inspect the slide pins

• Wear safety glasses and nitrile mechanic gloves.
• Use the aerosol brake cleaner and small nylon cleaning brush to clean the pad contact areas.
• Pull each guide pin carefully from its rubber boot by hand.
• Clean the pin and confirm it is straight, smooth, and free of heavy corrosion.
• Apply a thin coating of silicone ceramic brake lubricant to the guide-pin surface, then reinstall it without trapping air in the boot.
• Replace torn boots or badly corroded pins before continuing.

Step 7: Compress the caliper piston

• Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
• Use the rear brake caliper piston compression tool to push the piston slowly and evenly into the caliper.
• Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston so it does not overflow.
• Stop if the piston cocks sideways, binds, or requires extreme force.
• Keep fingers clear of the piston and caliper body.

Step 8: Install the new hardware and pads

• Press the new abutment clips fully into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Apply an extremely thin film of silicone ceramic brake lubricant where each pad ear contacts its metal clip.
• Keep all lubricant away from the rotor and pad friction surfaces.
• Install the new inner and outer pads in the same orientation as the originals.
• Confirm the pads slide in the bracket without binding.

Step 9: Reinstall the caliper

• Swing the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
• Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent crossed threads.
• Use the 13mm socket and 15mm open-end wrench as needed.
• Use the 3/8-inch drive torque wrench and tighten the guide-pin bolts to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).
• Confirm both guide-pin boots remain seated and are not pinched.

Step 10: Repeat on the opposite side

• Repeat Steps 3 through 9 on the other rear wheel.
• Compare all removed pads. Uneven wear can expose a caliper or slide-pin problem.
• Confirm every bolt is installed and torqued before fitting either wheel.

Step 11: Reinstall the rear wheels

• Clean loose rust and debris from the wheel and hub mating surfaces with the small nylon cleaning brush.
• Install each wheel and start every lug nut by hand.
• Use the 19mm lug-nut socket to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum and remove the jack stands.
• Lower the tires onto the ground.
• Use the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs). Ford's printed 2019 owner manual specifies this wheel torque. fordservicecontent.com

Step 12: Restore brake pressure

• Sit in the driver's seat with the transmission in Park.
• Press the brake pedal slowly several times until it becomes firm.
• Do not move your Explorer until the pedal feels normal and firm.
• Check the brake-fluid level and keep it between MIN and MAX.
• Install the reservoir cap securely.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Inspect both rear calipers for leaks and confirm the brake hoses are not twisted.
• ✅ Apply and release the parking brake several times after the brake pedal is firm.
• ✅ Start the engine and verify that the red brake and ABS warning lamps switch off normally.
• ✅ With your foot firmly on the brake, shift into Drive and Reverse briefly to confirm holding force.
• ✅ Test at walking speed before entering normal traffic.
• ✅ Bed the pads using several smooth moderate stops from approximately 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
• ✅ Avoid panic stops or holding the hot brakes firmly at a standstill during the initial break-in period.
• ✅ Recheck the brake-fluid level and inspect for leaks after the road test.
• ✅ Recheck wheel torque after approximately 100 miles or 160 kilometers, as directed by Ford after wheel removal. fordservicecontent.com

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$350 equivalent (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$175 equivalent (parts only)

You Save: $100-$250 by doing it yourself!

Local labor and imported-parts pricing around Sonīpat can vary considerably. This repair normally takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.

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