🔧 Escape - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This is a manageable first brake job if you work carefully. The important twist is that each rear caliper piston must be rotated while being pressed inward. A normal C-clamp alone can damage it.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

Assumption: The rear rotors and calipers pass inspection and don't require replacement.

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Escape with jack stands.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing either rear caliper because its cable operates the rear brakes. Ford confirms this model uses a hand-operated mechanical parking brake. fordservicecontent.com
• ⚠️ Chock both front wheels securely because the parking brake must remain released.
• ⚠️ Never work beneath a vehicle supported only by a jack.
• ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Don't blow it away with compressed air.
• ⚠️ Don't press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Don't let the caliper hang from its rubber brake hose.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnection and electronic parking-brake service mode are not required.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• 19mm lug-nut socket
• 7mm hex-bit socket
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• 3/8-inch drive torque wrench
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• Rear caliper piston wind-back kit (specialty)
• Small flat-blade screwdriver
• Brake caliper hanger (specialty)
• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• Stiff nylon cleaning brush
• Plastic drain pan
• Safety glasses
• Nitrile gloves

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1, replaces both sides
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1 can
• Shop towels - Qty: 1 pack

Replace the pads on both rear wheels. Never replace brake pads on only one side.

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📋 Before You Begin

• 📋 Park on level concrete, shift into Park, switch off the engine, and remove the key.
• 📋 Release the parking brake completely and place wheel chocks firmly against both sides of the front tires.
• 📋 Open the hood and inspect the brake-fluid reservoir. If it is completely full, remove a small amount with a clean fluid transfer tool before retracting the pistons.
• 📋 Leave the reservoir cap resting loosely in place to prevent contamination.
• 📋 Take a photograph of each assembled brake before removing the pads.
• 📋 Service one side at a time so the other side remains available as a reference.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the rear wheel nuts

• Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and breaker action from the ratchet to loosen each rear lug nut about one-quarter turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.

Step 2: Raise and support the rear

• Use the floor jack at an approved rear lifting point.
• Position the jack stands beneath the reinforced rear support points.
• Lower your Escape slowly onto the stands and gently shake the body to verify stability.
• A jack lifts. Jack stands hold.

Step 3: Remove the rear wheels

• Use the 19mm lug-nut socket to remove the lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and slide them beneath the body as an additional precaution.

Step 4: Inspect the brakes

• Use the safety glasses and inspect both rotor faces for deep grooves, heavy rust, cracks, blue heat marks, or a pronounced outer lip.
• Compare inner and outer pad thickness. A large difference can indicate seized slide pins or a sticking caliper.
• Stop if a brake hose is cracked, wet, twisted, or swollen.

Step 5: Remove the caliper guide-pin caps

• Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to carefully remove the protective caps from the rear of the caliper guide pins.
• Don't puncture or tear the rubber boots.

Step 6: Remove the caliper

• Use the 7mm hex-bit socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the upper and lower guide pins.
• Lift the caliper away from the pads and rotor.
• Support it with the brake caliper hanger. Don't pull on the parking-brake cable or brake hose.

Step 7: Remove the old pads and hardware

• Use the small flat-blade screwdriver to release the old pads from the carrier.
• Note the position of any spring clips, wear indicators, and backing plates.
• Remove the old stainless pad-support hardware if replacement hardware is supplied.

Step 8: Clean the pad contact points

• Place the plastic drain pan beneath the brake assembly.
• Apply brake parts cleaner and scrub the carrier's pad-contact surfaces with the stiff nylon cleaning brush.
• Clean until the new pads can move freely without being loose.
• Don't apply lubricant to the rotor or friction material.

Step 9: Check and lubricate the guide pins

• Pull each guide pin from its rubber boot by hand.
• Wipe it clean with a shop towel and inspect for rust, pitting, or bending.
• Apply a thin film of silicone brake lubricant before reinstalling it.
• Replace damaged boots or seized pins before continuing.

Step 10: Retract the rear caliper piston

• Fit the correct adapter from the rear caliper piston wind-back kit into the piston face.
• Slowly rotate the piston clockwise while applying inward pressure. The wind-back tool rotates and presses the piston simultaneously.
• Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while retracting the piston. Stop if the fluid approaches the top.
• Don't force the piston. If it won't turn smoothly, the parking brake may still be applied or the caliper may be seized.
• Finish with the piston-face slots positioned to match the locating feature on the new inner pad.
• Slow pressure beats an expensive caliper.

Step 11: Install the new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad-support hardware by hand in the same positions as the old pieces.
• Apply a very thin layer of silicone brake lubricant only where the pad tabs contact the hardware.
• Install the inner and outer pads in their correct positions.
• Keep all lubricant off the pad faces and rotor.

Step 12: Reinstall the caliper

• Place the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
• Start both guide pins by hand to prevent cross-threading.
• Use the 7mm hex-bit socket and 3/8-inch torque wrench to tighten the guide pins evenly.
• Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
• Reinstall the guide-pin protective caps by hand.

Step 13: Repeat on the opposite side

• Use the same tools and procedure on the other rear brake.
• Compare the finished assembly with your reference photographs before installing the wheels.

Step 14: Reinstall the wheels

• Install each wheel and start every lug nut by hand.
• Use the 19mm lug-nut socket to snug the nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Raise your Escape slightly with the floor jack, remove the stands, and lower the tires to the ground.
• Use the 19mm lug-nut socket and 1/2-inch torque wrench to tighten the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern.
• Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Before starting the engine, press the brake pedal repeatedly until it becomes firm. The first several strokes may travel close to the floor.
• ✅ Check the brake-fluid level and adjust it to the MAX line only if necessary. Use the fluid specification printed on the reservoir cap.
• ✅ Apply and release the parking brake several times. Confirm both rear wheels release normally.
• ✅ Check around both calipers for leaks and verify the brake warning light switches off.
• ✅ Test the brakes at walking speed before entering traffic.
• ✅ Follow the pad manufacturer's bedding procedure. If none is supplied, make several moderate stops with cooling time between them.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking and holding the pedal down after a hard stop during the first 200 miles unless an emergency requires it.
• ✅ Recheck lug-nut torque after approximately 50 miles.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 equivalent, depending on local labor and rotor condition

DIY Cost: $35-$110 equivalent for pads, hardware, cleaner, and lubricant

You Save: Approximately $140-$340 by doing it yourself!

Labor prices vary by area. This repair generally occupies a shop for approximately 1-1.5 hours.

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