How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2012-2020 Ford F-150
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and parking brake service mode tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2012-2020 Ford F-150
Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and parking brake service mode tips for 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, 2020
🔧 F-150 - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
This job replaces the rear brake pads on your F-150. The rear calipers must be moved out of the way, the old pads removed, and the caliper pistons compressed so the new pads fit correctly.
Difficulty Level: Beginner to Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on a cool vehicle. Brake parts can get very hot after driving.
- ⚠️ Support your F-150 with jack stands. Never work under or beside a vehicle held only by a jack.
- ⚠️ Chock the front wheels so the truck cannot roll.
- ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air. Use brake cleaner and a shop towel.
- ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a rear caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Your F-150 uses a rear electric parking brake on many 2019 models. The parking brake must be placed in service/maintenance mode before rear pad replacement.
- ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
- Wheel chocks
- 21mm lug nut socket
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 13mm socket
- 15mm wrench
- 18mm socket
- Disc brake caliper piston compressor tool (specialty)
- Flat-blade screwdriver
- Brake cleaner
- Shop towels
- Wire brush
- Bungee cord
- Nitrile gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
- Brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
📋 Before You Begin
- 🅿️ Park your F-150 on level ground.
- 🧱 Place wheel chocks in front of both front tires.
- 🔓 Make sure the parking brake is released before starting maintenance mode.
- 🛞 Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly before lifting the truck.
- 📘 A caliper is the clamp-like brake part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.
- 🔧 A torque wrench tightens bolts to a measured amount so they are not too loose or too tight.
- ⚙️ A scan tool is not usually required because Ford provides a pedal/switch sequence for rear parking brake service mode.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Put the Electric Parking Brake in Maintenance Mode
- Sit in your F-150 with the doors closed.
- Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine.
- Press and hold the accelerator pedal all the way down.
- Push and hold the electric parking brake switch downward in the release position.
- While holding both, turn the ignition OFF, then turn it back ON within about 5 seconds.
- Keep holding the accelerator pedal and parking brake switch until the parking brake system enters maintenance mode and the dash displays a parking brake maintenance/service message.
- Release the accelerator pedal and parking brake switch.
- Turn the ignition OFF.
- Do not skip this step.
Step 2: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts
- Use a 21mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
- Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
Step 3: Lift and Support the Rear of the Truck
- Use a floor jack to lift the rear of your F-150 at the rear axle area or approved rear jacking point.
- Place jack stands under solid rear axle support points.
- Lower the truck gently onto the jack stands.
- Lightly shake the truck by hand to confirm it is stable.
Step 4: Remove the Rear Wheels
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket to remove the rear lug nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
- Work on one side at a time.
Step 5: Remove the Rear Caliper
- Use a 13mm socket to remove the two rear caliper guide pin bolts.
- If the guide pin spins, hold it steady with a 15mm wrench while loosening the bolt with the 13mm socket.
- Slide the caliper off the bracket.
- Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the suspension.
- Do not let the caliper hang by the brake hose.
Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware
- Use your hands or a flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket.
- Use the flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old pad clips from the bracket.
- Pad clips are thin metal guides that help the pads slide smoothly.
Step 7: Clean the Caliper Bracket
- Use brake cleaner and shop towels to clean the caliper bracket.
- Use a wire brush to clean the areas where the pad clips sit.
- Keep brake cleaner away from painted surfaces.
- Clean clips prevent brake noise.
Step 8: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston
- Place the old brake pad against the caliper piston.
- Use a disc brake caliper piston compressor tool to slowly push the piston back into the caliper.
- Compress the piston straight and slowly.
- Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. If it gets close to overflowing, stop and remove a small amount with an appropriate fluid-safe method.
- Do not twist the piston unless your tool instructions require it for the caliper design.
Step 9: Install New Pad Hardware
- Install the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Apply a very thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease to the contact points where the pad ears touch the clips.
- Do not get grease on the rotor or pad friction material.
Step 10: Install the New Rear Brake Pads
- Slide the new inner and outer rear brake pads into the caliper bracket by hand.
- Make sure the pads move smoothly in the clips.
- If a pad is tight, remove it and clean the bracket again with the wire brush.
Step 11: Reinstall the Rear Caliper
- Position the caliper over the new pads.
- Start both caliper guide pin bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading.
- Use the 13mm socket and 15mm wrench as needed to tighten the guide pin bolts.
- Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).
Step 12: Repeat on the Other Rear Side
- Repeat Steps 5 through 11 on the other rear wheel.
- Use the same 13mm socket, 15mm wrench, brake cleaner, wire brush, and disc brake caliper piston compressor tool.
Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Wheels
- Place each wheel back onto the hub.
- Install the lug nuts by hand first.
- Use the 21mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
Step 14: Lower the Truck and Torque the Lug Nuts
- Use the floor jack to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
- Remove the jack stands.
- Lower your F-150 fully to the ground.
- Use the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 21mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
- Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
Step 15: Exit Electric Parking Brake Maintenance Mode
- Turn the ignition ON without starting the engine.
- Press and hold the accelerator pedal all the way down.
- Pull and hold the electric parking brake switch upward in the apply position.
- While holding both, turn the ignition OFF, then turn it back ON within about 5 seconds.
- Keep holding until the parking brake exits maintenance mode and the dash message clears.
- Release the pedal and switch.
Step 16: Pump the Brake Pedal
- With the truck still parked, press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
- This moves the caliper pistons back against the new pads.
- Do not drive until the pedal feels firm.
✅ After Repair
- ✅ Start your F-150 and confirm no brake warning messages remain on the dash.
- ✅ Test the electric parking brake. Apply it, then release it.
- ✅ Check around both rear calipers for brake fluid leaks.
- ✅ Drive slowly in a safe area and test the brakes gently.
- ✅ Bed in the new pads with several gentle stops from moderate speed. Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
- ✅ Recheck rear lug nut torque after a short drive: Torque to 204 Nm (150 ft-lbs).
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: $45-$120 (parts only)
You Save: $205-$330 by doing it yourself!
Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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