🔧 Focus - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads on your Focus. Rear pads wear down over time and should be replaced before the friction material gets too thin, which can damage the rotors and reduce braking performance.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a jack alone. Jack stands hold the vehicle safely while you work.
• ⚠️ Your Focus uses rear calipers with a screw-in piston. The piston must be rotated and pushed in at the same time using a rear caliper wind-back tool.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air; use brake cleaner instead.
• ⚠️ If your brake fluid reservoir is very full, fluid may rise when the caliper pistons are pushed back. Protect painted surfaces because brake fluid damages paint.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear brake pad replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
• 1/2-inch drive torque wrench
• 13mm socket
• 15mm wrench
• 3/8-inch drive ratchet
• Rear brake caliper wind-back tool (specialty)
• Flat-blade screwdriver
• Small wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Bungee cord
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Focus on level ground.
• Leave the transmission in 1st gear.
• Chock the front wheels using wheel chocks so the car cannot roll.
• Release the parking brake before removing the rear calipers. The parking brake clamps the rear brake pads, so it must be off for this job.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is at the MAX line, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before pushing the caliper pistons back.
• A caliper piston is the round part inside the brake caliper that pushes the pads against the rotor.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
• Loosen only, do not remove yet.

Step 2: Raise and Support the Rear of the Vehicle

• Use the floor jack at the rear jacking point to lift the rear of your Focus.
• Place jack stands under the approved rear support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Give the car a light shake by hand to confirm it is stable before working underneath or near the wheels.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.
• Keep the lug nuts in a safe place.

Step 4: Inspect the Rear Brake Assembly

• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Look at the caliper, rotor, brake hose, and pad thickness before taking anything apart.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean loose brake dust.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 5: Remove the Rear Caliper Bolts

• Use a 15mm wrench to hold the caliper slide pin steady.
• Use a 13mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower rear caliper guide bolts.
• A slide pin lets the caliper move side-to-side so both brake pads wear evenly.
• Set the bolts aside where they will stay clean.

Step 6: Lift Off and Support the Caliper

• Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently wiggle the caliper loose if it is stuck.
• Lift the caliper off the brake pads and rotor.
• Use a bungee cord to hang the caliper from the suspension spring or another solid suspension point.
• Make sure the brake hose is not stretched, twisted, or kinked.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

• Use your hands or a flat-blade screwdriver to slide the old pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Use the flat-blade screwdriver to remove the old stainless pad clips from the caliper bracket.
• Pad clips are thin metal guides that help the brake pads slide smoothly.
• Compare the old pads to the new pads to make sure the shapes match before installing.

Step 8: Clean the Caliper Bracket

• Use a small wire brush to clean the areas where the pad clips sit.
• Spray the bracket with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.
• The new clips must sit flat. Rust under the clips can make the pads bind.
• Clean metal helps quiet braking.

Step 9: Install New Pad Hardware

• Use your hands to press the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket.
• Make sure each clip is fully seated and matches the shape of the bracket.
• Apply a very thin layer of brake caliper slide pin grease to the pad contact points on the clips.
• Do not get grease on the rotor face or brake pad friction material.

Step 10: Retract the Rear Caliper Piston

• Use the rear brake caliper wind-back tool to rotate and push the caliper piston back into the caliper.
• A wind-back tool turns the rear caliper piston while pressing it inward, which is required because the parking brake mechanism is built into the rear caliper.
• Turn the piston slowly until it is fully seated.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this. Stop if the fluid gets close to overflowing.
• Line up the piston face so the notches match the locating pins or shape on the inner brake pad, if equipped.

Step 11: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

• Use your hands to slide the new rear brake pad set into the caliper bracket.
• Install the inner and outer pads in the same orientation as the old pads.
• Make sure the pads move smoothly in the clips without being loose.
• If a pad has a wear indicator tab, place it in the same position as the original pad.

Step 12: Reinstall the Rear Caliper

• Remove the bungee cord and carefully lower the caliper over the new pads.
• If the caliper does not fit, use the rear brake caliper wind-back tool to retract the piston a little more.
• Install the caliper guide bolts by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use the 15mm wrench to hold the slide pin and the 13mm socket with 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the bolts.
• Use the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench with the 13mm socket to tighten the rear caliper guide bolts to Torque to 35 Nm (26 ft-lbs).

Step 13: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 12 on the other rear brake.
• Rear brake pads should be replaced in pairs so braking stays even side-to-side.

Step 14: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Put each rear wheel back onto the hub by hand.
• Thread the lug nuts on by hand first.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Do not fully torque the lug nuts while the car is still in the air.

Step 15: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack to slightly lift the rear of the vehicle off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands.
• Lower your Focus until the tires touch the ground.
• Use the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).

Step 16: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Before driving, sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
• The pedal will feel soft at first, then firm up as the caliper pistons move back into position.
• Do not move the car until the brake pedal feels firm.

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✅ After Repair

• Check the brake fluid level and make sure it is between MIN and MAX.
• Reinstall the brake fluid reservoir cap securely.
• Apply and release the parking brake several times to let the rear calipers settle.
• Start with a slow test drive in a safe area. Confirm the car stops straight and there are no grinding noises.
• Bed in the new pads by making several gentle stops from moderate speed. Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
• After the test drive, check both rear wheels for unusual heat, smells, or brake fluid leaks.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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