How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Trim: XLT)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2011-2019 Ford Explorer (Trim: XLT)
Step-by-step DIY instructions with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019
🔧 Explorer - Rear Brake Pad Replacement
Replacing the rear brake pads on your Explorer involves removing both rear calipers, compressing their pistons, and installing new pads and hardware. The parking brake uses a separate drum-style mechanism, so the caliper pistons press straight inward without being rotated.
Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours
⚠️ Safety & Precautions
- ⚠️ Work on level, solid ground and support your Explorer with jack stands. Never rely only on a floor jack.
- ⚠️ Release the parking brake before removing the rear calipers. Secure the front wheels with wheel chocks.
- ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not use compressed air or inhale the dust.
- ⚠️ Never press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
- ⚠️ Do not allow a caliper to hang from its rubber brake hose.
- ⚠️ Brake fluid damages paint. Clean spills immediately and keep the reservoir from overflowing.
- Battery disconnection is not required for this repair.
🔧 Required Tools
You'll need the following tools for this repair:
- 2-ton floor jack
- 2-ton jack stands
- Wheel chocks
- 19mm deep socket
- 11mm socket
- 3/8-inch drive ratchet
- 1/2-inch drive breaker bar
- 3/8-inch drive torque wrench rated 10-80 ft-lbs
- 1/2-inch drive torque wrench rated 30-150 ft-lbs
- Disc brake piston compression tool (specialty)
- Small flat-blade screwdriver
- Nylon brake-cleaning brush
- Brake fluid syringe
- Caliper hanger
- Nitrile mechanic gloves
- Safety glasses
🔩 Required Parts
HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:
- Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
- Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
- High-temperature silicone brake lubricant - Qty: 1
- Non-chlorinated brake cleaner - Qty: 1 can
- DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle if needed
📋 Before You Begin
- Park your Explorer on level, solid ground and place the transmission in Park.
- Switch off the engine, remove the key, and release the parking brake completely.
- Place wheel chocks tightly against both sides of one front tire.
- Let the brakes cool completely before working.
- Check the brake-fluid level under the hood. If it is at the MAX line, use a brake fluid syringe to remove a small amount before compressing the pistons.
- No infotainment setting, scan tool, electronic parking-brake service mode, or battery disconnect is required.
🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps in order:
Step 1: Loosen the rear wheel nuts
- Use a 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to loosen each rear wheel nut about one-half turn.
- Do not remove the nuts while your Explorer is still on the ground.
Step 2: Raise and support the rear
- Position the 2-ton floor jack beneath the reinforced rear lifting point and raise one side at a time.
- Place 2-ton jack stands beneath the marked rear pinch-weld support points.
- Lower your Explorer gently onto the stands, then give it a careful stability check.
- Keep the floor jack nearby as backup support.
Step 3: Remove both rear wheels
- Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar to remove the wheel nuts.
- Remove both rear wheels and place them flat away from the work area.
Step 4: Inspect the brakes
- Use a flashlight and inspect both rear rotors for deep grooves, blue heat spots, cracks, or heavy rust.
- Check the rubber brake hoses for cracks, wetness, or bulges.
- Compare inner and outer pad wear. A large difference may indicate a seized slide pin or caliper.
- Replace or machine the rotors if they are damaged or below the minimum thickness stamped on each rotor.
Step 5: Remove the first rear caliper
- Use an 11mm socket and 3/8-inch drive ratchet to remove the upper and lower caliper guide-pin bolts.
- A guide pin allows the caliper to slide sideways as the brakes apply.
- Lift the caliper from the bracket. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver only if gentle assistance is needed.
- Support the caliper with a caliper hanger. Do not twist or stretch its brake hose.
Step 6: Remove the old pads and hardware
- Pull the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket by hand.
- Use a small flat-blade screwdriver to remove the stainless-steel pad clips from the bracket.
- Note the position of any wear indicator before discarding the old pads.
Step 7: Clean and lubricate the bracket
- Spray non-chlorinated brake cleaner onto the bracket and use a nylon brake-cleaning brush to remove brake dust and rust from the clip seating areas.
- Install the new rear brake pad hardware by hand. Make sure every clip sits completely flat.
- Apply a very thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant where the pad tabs contact the hardware.
- Do not put lubricant on the pad friction material or rotor surface.
Step 8: Check the caliper guide pins
- Pull each guide pin from its rubber boot by hand and confirm that it moves smoothly.
- Wipe the pins clean and apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone brake lubricant.
- Reinsert each pin by hand without tearing or twisting its rubber boot.
- Replace the caliper or damaged guide-pin components if a pin is rusted, seized, or loose.
Step 9: Compress the caliper piston
- Place an old brake pad against the piston face.
- Use the disc brake piston compression tool to press the piston slowly and straight into the caliper bore.
- Watch the brake-fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Use the brake fluid syringe if the level approaches the top.
- Stop if the piston binds, tilts, or requires excessive force. Do not rotate the piston.
- Compress slowly to avoid damaging the hydraulic seals.
Step 10: Install the new pads
- Fit the new inner and outer pads into the hardware by hand.
- Make sure the pad tabs slide freely without excessive looseness.
- If equipped, place the pad with the wear indicator in the same position as the original pad.
- Keep all friction surfaces clean and dry.
Step 11: Reinstall the caliper
- Place the caliper over the new pads without twisting the brake hose.
- Start both guide-pin bolts by hand to prevent crossed threads.
- Use an 11mm socket and 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to tighten both guide-pin bolts to 32 Nm (24 ft-lbs).
- Confirm that both guide-pin boots are seated and undamaged.
Step 12: Repeat on the opposite side
- Use the same tools and procedure to replace the pads and hardware on the other rear wheel.
- Always replace rear brake pads as a complete axle set.
Step 13: Reinstall the rear wheels
- Install each wheel and start all wheel nuts by hand.
- Use a 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to snug the nuts in a star pattern while the wheels are raised.
- Use the 2-ton floor jack to lift your Explorer slightly, remove the jack stands, and lower it to the ground.
- Use the 19mm deep socket and 1/2-inch drive torque wrench to tighten the wheel nuts in a star pattern to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs).
Step 14: Restore brake pressure
- Before starting the engine, press and release the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
- Do not move your Explorer until the pedal is firm and holds steady.
- Check the reservoir and add fresh DOT 3 brake fluid only if the level is below the correct range.
✅ After Repair
- Start the engine and hold firm pressure on the brake pedal for 30 seconds. The pedal should not slowly sink.
- Inspect both rear calipers and hoses for brake-fluid leaks.
- Apply and release the parking brake to confirm normal operation.
- Drive slowly in a safe area and verify that your Explorer stops straight without scraping, pulling, or warning lights.
- Bed in the pads with approximately 8-10 moderate stops from 50 km/h to 15 km/h. Allow about 30 seconds of cooling between stops.
- Avoid emergency stops and holding the brake pedal firmly while stationary immediately after bedding.
- Recheck wheel-nut torque to 135 Nm (100 ft-lbs) after approximately 80-160 km.
💰 DIY vs Shop Cost
Shop Cost: ₹7,000-₹15,000 (parts + labor)
DIY Cost: ₹3,500-₹8,000 (parts only)
You Save: ₹3,500-₹7,000 by doing it yourself!
Local labor and imported-parts prices vary. This repair takes a shop approximately 1-1.5 hours.
🎯 Ready to get started?
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