🔧 Accord - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

You’ll remove the rear wheels, swing the rear brake calipers out of the way, and swap the old pads for new ones. On your Accord, the rear caliper piston must be turned while being pushed back because it’s tied into the parking brake mechanism.

Difficulty Level: Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-3 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• 🛑 Support the car with jack stands; never rely on a jack alone.
• 🛑 Brake dust is harmful—avoid blowing it; use brake cleaner.
• 🛑 Do not press the brake pedal with a caliper removed.
• 🛑 Keep grease off pad/rotor friction surfaces.
• 🛑 Watch brake fluid level—pushing pistons back can overflow the reservoir.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 3-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm socket
• 1/2" drive breaker bar
• 1/2" drive torque wrench (20-150 ft-lbs range)
• 14mm socket
• 17mm socket
• 3/8" drive ratchet
• 3/8" drive torque wrench (10-80 ft-lbs range)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• Wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Bungee cord
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) - Qty: 1
• Brake parts cleaner - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park on level ground and place wheel chocks at the front wheels.
• Release the parking brake fully (rear calipers won’t retract correctly if it’s applied).
• Pop the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir level; remove a little fluid if it’s near MAX.
• Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn using a 19mm socket and breaker bar before lifting.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Lift and secure the rear of the car

• Use a floor jack to lift the rear and set the car on jack stands at proper rear support points.
• Remove both rear wheels using a 19mm socket.

Step 2: Locate the rear caliper and inspect

• Turn the steering wheel is not needed on the rear; just position yourself to see the caliper, pads, and rotor.
• Check for torn caliper boots, leaking fluid, or badly grooved rotors before you continue.

Step 3: Remove the rear caliper (do not let it hang)

• Remove the lower and upper caliper slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Lift the caliper off the bracket and support it with a bungee cord.
• Tip: Hook caliper to the spring/arm.

Step 4: Remove old pads and hardware

• Pull the old inner and outer pads out of the bracket by hand (use a flathead screwdriver gently if stuck).
• Remove the stainless pad clips (hardware) from the bracket.
• Clean the bracket pad lands (where clips sit) using a wire brush and brake cleaner spray.

Step 5: Retract the rear caliper piston (turn while pushing)

• Use a brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate the piston while pushing it in.
• Turn slowly and keep the tool square so you don’t tear the dust boot.
• Stop when the piston is fully seated and the new pads will fit.
• Wind-back tool = turns + presses the piston.

Step 6: Service the slide pins

• Pull the slide pins out of the bracket (they slide out by hand once the caliper is off).
• Clean them with brake cleaner spray and wipe dry.
• Apply a thin coat of brake caliper slide pin grease (silicone) and reinstall them so they move smoothly.

Step 7: Install new hardware and pads

• Install the new pad clips/hardware into the bracket.
• Install the new pads into the bracket (match inner vs outer if your pad set is different).
• Make sure pads slide freely in the clips (no binding).

Step 8: Reinstall the caliper and torque bolts

• Swing the caliper back over the new pads.
• Install the caliper slide-pin bolts using a 14mm socket.
• Torque to 34 Nm (25 ft-lbs).

Step 9: Repeat on the other rear wheel

• Repeat Steps 2–8 on the opposite rear side.

Step 10: Reinstall wheels and torque lug nuts

• Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
• Lower the car off the jack stands using the floor jack.
• Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench.
• Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

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✅ After Repair

• With the engine OFF, pump the brake pedal slowly 10–15 times until it feels firm.
• Check brake fluid level and top off if needed.
• Test at low speed first; confirm normal stopping and no pulling/noise.
• Pad break-in: make 6–10 moderate stops from ~30–40 mph, letting brakes cool a bit between stops.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $250-$450 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $40-$120 (parts only)

You Save: $130-$410 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.5-2.5 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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