🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads on your Outback. Rear pads wear down over time and should be replaced before the friction material gets too thin or starts grinding into the rotors.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and never rely on a jack alone.
• ⚠️ Always support your Outback with jack stands before removing wheels.
• ⚠️ Brake dust can be harmful. Do not blow it with compressed air.
• ⚠️ The rear parking brake on your Outback uses drum-style shoes inside the rear rotor “hat,” separate from the disc brake pads. Do not drive with the parking brake engaged during this repair.
• ⚠️ Brake fluid may rise in the reservoir when compressing caliper pistons. Remove excess fluid if it gets near the top.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear pad replacement.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
• Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• 14mm socket
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• 14mm combination wrench
• Disc brake pad spreader tool
• C-clamp 6-inch
• Flathead screwdriver medium
• Brake cleaner spray
• Shop towels
• Nitrile gloves
• Safety glasses
• Small wire brush

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
• Brake pad anti-squeal lubricant - Qty: 1
• DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle

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📋 Before You Begin

• 🅿️ Park your Outback on level ground.
• 🛑 Put the transmission in Park.
• 🧱 Place wheel chocks in front of the front wheels.
• ⚠️ Release the parking brake fully before lifting the rear of the vehicle.
• 🔍 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is full, remove a little fluid with a clean suction tool before compressing the calipers.
• 📘 A caliper is the brake part that squeezes the pads against the rotor to stop the vehicle.
• 📘 Slide pins are small greased pins that let the caliper move smoothly as the pads wear.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen each rear lug nut about half a turn.
• Do this while the tires are still touching the ground.
• Do not remove them yet.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear

• Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Outback at the rear center jacking point.
• Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the rear side support points.
• Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
• Use your hands to lightly shake the vehicle. It should feel stable before you work near the brakes.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels.
• Place the wheels flat under the vehicle as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Inspect the Rear Brake Assembly

• Put on safety glasses and nitrile gloves.
• Use brake cleaner spray and shop towels to clean loose dust from the caliper area.
• Look at the rotor surface. If it is deeply grooved, cracked, or badly rusted, the rotor should be replaced or professionally serviced.
• Check that the parking brake cable and rubber brake hose are not stretched or damaged.

Step 5: Remove the Lower Caliper Bolt

• Use a 14mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to loosen the lower rear caliper bolt.
• If the slide pin turns with the bolt, hold the slide pin with a 14mm combination wrench.
• Remove the lower caliper bolt and set it aside.

Step 6: Swing the Caliper Up

• Use your hand to swing the caliper upward on the upper slide pin.
• If it is stuck, use a flathead screwdriver medium gently between the caliper and pad to help move it.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
• If needed, support the caliper with a safe nearby suspension point using a bungee cord or similar support.

Step 7: Remove the Old Brake Pads

• Pull the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket by hand.
• Use a flathead screwdriver medium only if the pads are stuck.
• Note the position of any wear indicator tab before removing the pads.
• The wear indicator is a small metal tab that squeals when the pad is worn low.

Step 8: Remove and Clean the Pad Hardware

• Use a flathead screwdriver medium to remove the old stainless pad clips from the caliper bracket.
• Use a small wire brush to clean the areas where the clips sit.
• Spray the bracket lightly with brake cleaner spray and wipe it with shop towels.
• Clean brackets help prevent brake noise.

Step 9: Install New Pad Hardware

• Press the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure each clip sits flat and fully seated.
• Apply a very thin layer of brake pad anti-squeal lubricant to the pad contact areas on the clips.
• Do not get lubricant on the brake pad friction material or rotor face.

Step 10: Compress the Caliper Piston

• Place one old brake pad against the caliper piston.
• Use a disc brake pad spreader tool or C-clamp 6-inch to slowly push the piston straight back into the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir under the hood while compressing the piston.
• If brake fluid gets close to overflowing, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool.
• Go slowly to protect brake components.

Step 11: Check and Grease the Slide Pins

• Pull each caliper slide pin out by hand, one at a time.
• Wipe the old grease off with shop towels.
• Apply a light coat of brake caliper slide pin grease.
• Reinstall each slide pin by hand and make sure it moves smoothly.
• Do not use regular grease. Brake slide pin grease handles heat and protects rubber parts.

Step 12: Install the New Brake Pads

• Install the new rear brake pad set into the caliper bracket by hand.
• Make sure the pads slide easily in the new clips.
• If a pad is tight, remove it and clean the bracket again with the small wire brush.
• Apply a thin layer of brake pad anti-squeal lubricant to the back side of each pad where it contacts the caliper.
• Do not put lubricant on the pad friction surface.

Step 13: Reinstall the Caliper

• Swing the caliper down over the new pads by hand.
• If it does not fit, use the disc brake pad spreader tool or C-clamp 6-inch to compress the piston a little more.
• Install the lower caliper bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 14mm socket, ratchet 3/8-inch drive, and 14mm combination wrench if needed to tighten the caliper bolt.
• Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Repeat on the Other Side

• Repeat Steps 4 through 13 on the opposite rear brake.
• Rear brake pads must be replaced in pairs.
• One side at a time prevents mix-ups.

Step 15: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

• Place each rear wheel back onto the hub by hand.
• Install the lug nuts by hand first.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 16: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
• Lower your Outback until the tires touch the ground.
• Use a torque wrench 1/2-inch drive and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 17: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat.
• Press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
• This moves the caliper pistons back out against the new pads.
• Do not drive until the brake pedal is firm.

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✅ After Repair

• ✅ Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.
• ✅ Start the engine and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm and consistent.
• ✅ Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
• ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 200 miles unless needed for safety.
• ✅ Recheck rear lug nut torque after 25-50 miles: 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).
• ✅ If you hear grinding, feel a soft pedal, or the vehicle pulls to one side, stop driving and inspect the repair.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$100 (parts only)

You Save: $120-$280 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.

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