🔧 Fit - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear disc brake pads on your Fit. Worn rear pads can cause squealing, grinding, longer stopping distance, or uneven braking.

Difficulty Level: Beginner-Intermediate | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours

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⚠️ Safety & Precautions

• ⚠️ Work on a cool brake system. Brake parts can get very hot after driving.
• ⚠️ Use jack stands every time. A jack lifts the car, but jack stands safely hold it up.
• ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a caliper is removed.
• ⚠️ The rear caliper piston must be turned and pushed in at the same time. Do not force it straight in with a standard C-clamp.
• ⚠️ Replace rear pads as a complete axle set. Do both rear wheels together.
• ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this repair.

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🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

• Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
• Wheel chocks
• 19mm lug nut socket
• Breaker bar 1/2-inch drive
• Ratchet 3/8-inch drive
• 12mm socket
• 17mm wrench
• Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
• Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
• Rear brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty)
• Flathead screwdriver
• Small wire brush
• Brake cleaner spray
• Drain pan
• Mechanic gloves
• Safety glasses

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🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

• Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
• Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
• High-temperature brake lubricant - Qty: 1
• Brake cleaner spray - Qty: 1

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📋 Before You Begin

• Park your Fit on a flat, solid surface.
• Put the transmission in 1st gear and leave the parking brake released before lifting the rear of the car.
• Chock the front wheels with wheel chocks so the car cannot roll.
• Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is full, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before pushing the caliper pistons back.
• A caliper is the clamp-shaped brake part that squeezes the pads against the rotor.
• A rotor is the round metal disc behind the wheel.

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🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and breaker bar 1/2-inch drive to loosen the rear wheel lug nuts about 1/2 turn.
• Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
• Loosen wheels before lifting.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Car

• Use a floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) at the rear center jacking point or approved side jacking point.
• Place jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum) under the approved rear support points.
• Lower the car gently onto the jack stands.
• Keep the floor jack lightly touching as backup, but do not rely on it alone.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

• Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
• Remove both rear wheels and set them flat under the car as an extra safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Rear Caliper Lower Bolt

• Look at the rear brake caliper. The small bolts at the top and bottom are the caliper slide pin bolts.
• Use a 17mm wrench to hold the slide pin if it spins.
• Use a 12mm socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to remove the lower caliper bolt.
• If the caliper does not swing up easily, remove the upper bolt the same way.

Step 5: Lift the Caliper Away from the Pads

• Use your hands to swing the caliper upward and away from the brake pads.
• If needed, use a flathead screwdriver gently between the old pad and rotor to create a little space.
• Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.
• Rest the caliper carefully on the suspension, or support it so the hose is not stretched.

Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

• Use your hands to slide the old inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
• Use a flathead screwdriver to remove the old stainless pad clips if replacing the hardware.
• Use a small wire brush to clean the bracket where the clips sit.
• Use brake cleaner spray with a drain pan underneath to wash away brake dust.
• Do not breathe brake dust. Wear safety glasses and mechanic gloves.

Step 7: Wind Back the Rear Caliper Piston

• The rear piston has slots because it connects to the parking brake mechanism.
• Use the rear brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) to rotate the piston clockwise while pushing inward.
• Turn and press slowly until the piston is fully seated in the caliper.
• Watch the brake fluid reservoir while doing this. If fluid rises too high, stop and remove a small amount.
• Line up the piston slots so they match the raised pin or tab on the inner brake pad.
• Do not force the piston.

Step 8: Install New Pad Hardware

• Use your hands to snap the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket.
• Make sure each clip sits flat and fully locked in place.
• Apply a thin film of high-temperature brake lubricant only to the pad contact points on the hardware.
• Do not get lubricant on the rotor or pad friction surface.

Step 9: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

• Use your hands to slide the new inner and outer pads into the bracket.
• Make sure the pads move smoothly in the clips.
• If a pad has a wear indicator tab, install it in the same position as the old pad.
• Apply a very thin layer of high-temperature brake lubricant to the pad backing plates where the caliper touches.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper

• Use your hands to lower the caliper over the new pads.
• If it will not fit, use the rear brake caliper piston wind-back tool (specialty) to seat the piston farther.
• Install the caliper bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
• Use a 17mm wrench to hold the slide pin if needed.
• Use a 12mm socket and torque wrench 3/8-inch drive to tighten the caliper slide pin bolt to Torque to 23 Nm (17 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

• Use the same tools and steps on the opposite rear wheel.
• Always replace rear brake pads in pairs so braking stays even.

Step 12: Reinstall the Wheels

• Use your hands to install the wheels and start all lug nuts by hand.
• Use the 19mm lug nut socket and ratchet 3/8-inch drive to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
• Do not fully torque the lug nuts while the wheels are off the ground.

Step 13: Lower the Car and Torque the Lug Nuts

• Use the floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum) to lift the car slightly off the jack stands.
• Remove the jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum).
• Lower the car fully to the ground.
• Use a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Pump the Brake Pedal

• Sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times.
• The pedal may go low at first. Keep pumping until it feels firm.
• This moves the rear caliper pistons back against the new pads.
• Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off only if needed.

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✅ After Repair

• Before driving, make sure the brake pedal feels firm.
• Test the parking brake operation on level ground first.
• Drive slowly in a safe area and make a few gentle stops.
• Listen for scraping, grinding, or clunking noises.
• Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive using a 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench 1/2-inch drive: Torque to 108 Nm (80 ft-lbs).
• Bed in the new pads with 8-10 moderate stops from about 30 mph to 5 mph, allowing time between stops for cooling.
• Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.

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💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $180-$320 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $35-$90 (parts only)

You Save: $145-$230 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 0.8-1.2 hours.

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🎯 Ready to get started?

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