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2012 Subaru Outback
2006 - 2014 Subaru Outback
2.5i
Compatible with more variants.

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How to Replace Rear Brakes 2010-2014 Subaru Outback

How to Replace Rear Brakes 2010-2014 Subaru Outback

Suggested Parts

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Tools & Fluids

2 Ton
2 Ton
Floor Jack
2 Ton
2 Ton
Jack Stands
Wheel Chocks
Wheel Chocks
19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
3/8
3/8
Ratchet
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2006-2014 Subaru Outback (Trim: 2.5i)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2006-2014 Subaru Outback (Trim: 2.5i)

Step-by-step DIY guide with required tools, parts, torque specs, and safety tips for 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear disc brake pads on your Outback. The rear caliper is removed from its bracket, the old pads and hardware are replaced, and the caliper piston is compressed so the new pads fit.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on a flat, solid surface and support your Outback with jack stands. Never rely on a floor jack alone.
  • ⚠️ Keep the parking brake released while replacing rear pads, but chock the front wheels so the vehicle cannot roll.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust is harmful. Wear safety glasses and gloves, and do not blow dust with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Brake fluid can damage paint. Cover nearby painted surfaces and wipe spills immediately.
  • ⚠️ Do not press the brake pedal while a rear caliper is removed.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear pad replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • Floor jack (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Jack stands (rated 2-ton minimum)
  • Wheel chocks
  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • Ratchet handle 3/8-inch drive
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm wrench
  • Torque wrench 1/2-inch drive
  • Torque wrench 3/8-inch drive
  • Brake caliper compression tool (specialty)
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • Wire brush
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Drain pan
  • Bungee cord
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake caliper slide pin grease - Qty: 1
  • Brake pad anti-squeal grease - Qty: 1
  • DOT 3 brake fluid - Qty: 1 small bottle

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Outback on level ground, shift to Park, and leave the parking brake released.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks tightly in front of and behind the front tires.
  • 🧰 A caliper is the clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor to stop the wheel.
  • 🧰 A caliper compression tool slowly pushes the piston back into the caliper so thicker new pads fit.
  • 🧴 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is near MAX, remove a small amount with a clean turkey baster or suction tool before compressing the calipers.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Wheel Lug Nuts

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 1/2-inch drive breaker bar or torque wrench handle to loosen each rear lug nut about 1/2 turn while the tires are still on the ground.
  • Do not remove the lug nuts yet.
  • Tip: Loosen first, lift second.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear of the Vehicle

  • Use the floor jack at the rear center jacking point to raise the rear of your Outback.
  • Place jack stands under the rear side support points.
  • Slowly lower the vehicle onto the jack stands and gently shake the vehicle to confirm it is stable.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and place them flat under the sides of the vehicle as an added safety backup.

Step 4: Remove the Lower Caliper Bolt

  • Work on one side at a time so the other side remains available as a visual reference.
  • Use the 14mm socket and ratchet handle to remove the lower rear caliper slide bolt.
  • If the slide pin spins, hold the slide pin with a 17mm wrench while turning the bolt with the 14mm socket.

Step 5: Swing the Caliper Up

  • Use your hand to swing the caliper upward away from the brake pads.
  • Support the caliper with a bungee cord so the brake hose is not stretched.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

  • Use your hands or a small flathead screwdriver to slide the old inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket.
  • Use the small flathead screwdriver to remove the stainless pad hardware clips from the bracket.
  • Place the old pads in a drain pan to keep brake dust contained.

Step 7: Clean the Caliper Bracket

  • Use the wire brush to clean the pad contact areas on the caliper bracket.
  • Use brake cleaner spray over the drain pan to rinse away dust and grime.
  • Let the parts dry before applying grease.
  • Tip: Clean metal helps pads slide smoothly.

Step 8: Install the New Pad Hardware

  • Use your hands to snap the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket.
  • Make sure each clip sits flat and fully locked into the bracket.
  • Apply a very thin layer of brake pad anti-squeal grease to the pad ears where they touch the hardware clips.
  • Do not get grease on the pad friction surface or rotor face.

Step 9: Compress the Caliper Piston

  • Place an old brake pad against the caliper piston.
  • Use the brake caliper compression tool to slowly press the piston straight back into the caliper bore.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing. If fluid approaches the top, remove a small amount using a clean suction tool.
  • A piston is the round metal part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad when you press the brake pedal.

Step 10: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

  • Use your hands to slide the new inner and outer rear brake pads into the caliper bracket.
  • Make sure the pad ears sit inside the new hardware clips and the pads can move slightly by hand.
  • If the pads are tight, remove them and re-check the hardware clip position.

Step 11: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Lower the caliper over the new pads by hand.
  • Use the 14mm socket to install the lower caliper slide bolt.
  • If needed, hold the slide pin with the 17mm wrench.
  • Tighten the rear caliper slide bolt with the 3/8-inch drive torque wrench to Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 12: Repeat on the Other Rear Side

  • Use the same tools and steps on the opposite rear brake.
  • Replace rear brake pads in pairs only. Do not replace just one side.

Step 13: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Use your hands to start each lug nut by threading it clockwise.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Do not fully torque the lug nuts while the wheels are still in the air.

Step 14: Lower the Vehicle and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack to raise the rear slightly and remove the jack stands.
  • Lower your Outback until the tires touch the ground and cannot spin.
  • Use the 1/2-inch drive torque wrench and 19mm lug nut socket to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 15: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Before driving, sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal slowly several times until it feels firm.
  • This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
  • Check the brake fluid level and top off with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Start your Outback and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm, not spongy.
  • ✅ Check behind both rear wheels for brake fluid leaks or twisted brake hoses.
  • ✅ Recheck the brake fluid reservoir and keep the level between MIN and MAX.
  • ✅ Perform a slow test drive in a safe area. Confirm the vehicle stops straight and quietly.
  • ✅ Bed in the pads with several gentle stops from about 30 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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