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2013 Subaru Outback
2005 - 2014 Subaru Outback
Flat 4 2.5L
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Changing Rear Brakes on 2013 Subaru Legacy, Outback, Forester, Impreza

Changing Rear Brakes on 2013 Subaru Legacy, Outback, Forester, Impreza

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19mm
19mm
Socket
or (23/32")
14mm
14mm
Socket
or (17/32")
17mm
17mm
Wrench
or (21/32")
3/8
3/8
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3/8
3/8
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How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2005-2014 Subaru Outback (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and brake safety tips for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

How to Replace Rear Brake Pads on a 2005-2014 Subaru Outback (Engine: Flat 4 2.5L)

Step-by-step DIY guide with tools, parts, torque specs, and brake safety tips for 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014

Orion
Orion

🔧 Outback - Rear Brake Pad Replacement

This repair replaces the rear brake pads on your Outback. The rear caliper must be removed from the bracket, the old pads and hardware swapped, and the caliper piston compressed before reassembly.

Difficulty Level: Beginner | Estimated Time: 1.5-2.5 hours


⚠️ Safety & Precautions

  • ⚠️ Work on level ground only, and support your Outback with jack stands before removing wheels.
  • ⚠️ Do not rely on a floor jack alone. A floor jack lifts the vehicle; jack stands safely hold it up.
  • ⚠️ Brake dust can irritate your lungs. Do not blow dust with compressed air.
  • ⚠️ Rear brakes get very hot after driving. Let the brake parts cool before starting.
  • ⚠️ Your Outback uses a mechanical parking brake inside the rear rotor hat. Release the parking brake before removing the rear wheels.
  • ⚠️ Battery disconnect is not required for this rear pad replacement.

🔧 Required Tools

You'll need the following tools for this repair:

  • 19mm lug nut socket
  • 14mm socket
  • 17mm wrench
  • 3/8-inch ratchet
  • Torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs
  • Flat-blade screwdriver
  • Brake caliper piston compression tool (specialty)
  • Brake caliper hanger hook (specialty)
  • Floor jack rated 2-ton minimum
  • Jack stands rated 2-ton minimum
  • Wheel chocks
  • Brake cleaner spray
  • Shop towels
  • Nitrile gloves
  • Safety glasses

🔩 Required Parts

HowToo sells all the parts you need for this repair:

  • Rear brake pad set - Qty: 1
  • Rear brake pad hardware kit - Qty: 1
  • Brake lubricant - Qty: 1

📋 Before You Begin

  • 🅿️ Park your Outback on level ground.
  • 🛞 Place wheel chocks in front of the front tires.
  • 🅿️ Release the parking brake completely before lifting the rear of the vehicle.
  • 🔍 Open the hood and check the brake fluid reservoir. If it is filled to the very top, remove a small amount with a clean suction tool before compressing the caliper pistons.
  • 🧼 Brake lubricant is a special high-temperature grease used only on pad contact points, never on the pad friction surface or rotor face.

🔨 Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps in order:

Step 1: Loosen the Rear Lug Nuts

  • Use a 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to loosen each rear wheel lug nut about half a turn.
  • Do this while the tires are still touching the ground so the wheels do not spin.
  • Loosen first, lift second.

Step 2: Lift and Support the Rear

  • Use a floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear of your Outback at the rear center jacking point.
  • Place jack stands rated 2-ton minimum under the approved rear side support points.
  • Lower the vehicle gently onto the jack stands.
  • Lightly shake the vehicle by hand to confirm it is stable before working near the brakes.

Step 3: Remove the Rear Wheels

  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the loosened lug nuts.
  • Remove both rear wheels and set them flat on the ground.

Step 4: Remove the Lower Caliper Bolt

  • Look behind the rear brake caliper. The caliper is the metal clamp that squeezes the brake pads against the rotor.
  • Use a 14mm socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to remove the lower rear caliper slide pin bolt.
  • If the slide pin spins, hold it steady with a 17mm wrench while loosening the bolt with the 14mm socket.

Step 5: Swing the Caliper Up

  • Use your hands to gently swing the caliper upward away from the pads.
  • If it sticks, use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently pry between the old pad and caliper body.
  • Support the caliper with a brake caliper hanger hook.
  • Do not let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose.

Step 6: Remove the Old Brake Pads and Hardware

  • Use your hands to slide the old rear brake pads out of the caliper bracket.
  • Use a flat-blade screwdriver to carefully remove the old stainless pad clips from the bracket.
  • Spray the bracket contact areas with brake cleaner spray and wipe with shop towels.
  • Keep brake cleaner away from painted surfaces.

Step 7: Install the New Pad Hardware

  • Press the new rear brake pad hardware kit clips into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the metal-to-metal contact points where the pad ears slide in the clips.
  • Do not put lubricant on the rotor surface or the pad friction material.
  • Thin grease layer only.

Step 8: Compress the Rear Caliper Piston

  • Use a brake caliper piston compression tool to slowly push the caliper piston straight back into the caliper.
  • A piston is the round metal part inside the caliper that pushes the brake pad when you press the brake pedal.
  • Watch the brake fluid reservoir while compressing the piston. Stop if fluid rises near the top.
  • Compress slowly to avoid pushing fluid back too quickly through the brake system.

Step 9: Install the New Rear Brake Pads

  • Install the new rear brake pad set into the caliper bracket by hand.
  • Make sure each pad slides smoothly in the new hardware clips.
  • If the pads bind, remove them and check that the clips are seated correctly.

Step 10: Reinstall the Caliper

  • Remove the brake caliper hanger hook.
  • Swing the caliper down over the new pads by hand.
  • Install the lower caliper slide pin bolt by hand first to avoid cross-threading.
  • Use the 14mm socket, 17mm wrench, and torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs to tighten the caliper bolt.
  • Torque to 27 Nm (20 ft-lbs).

Step 11: Repeat on the Other Side

  • Repeat Steps 4 through 10 on the opposite rear brake.
  • Rear brake pads should always be replaced as a pair, left and right.

Step 12: Reinstall the Rear Wheels

  • Place each rear wheel back on the hub by hand.
  • Thread all lug nuts by hand first.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and 3/8-inch ratchet to snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.

Step 13: Lower and Torque the Lug Nuts

  • Use the floor jack rated 2-ton minimum to lift the rear slightly off the jack stands.
  • Remove the jack stands rated 2-ton minimum.
  • Lower your Outback until the tires touch the ground.
  • Use the 19mm lug nut socket and torque wrench rated 20-100 ft-lbs to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern.
  • Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

Step 14: Pump the Brake Pedal

  • Before driving, sit in the driver seat and press the brake pedal several times until it feels firm.
  • This moves the caliper pistons back into position against the new pads.
  • Do not skip this step. The first pedal press may go low.

✅ After Repair

  • ✅ Check the brake fluid level and make sure it is between the MIN and MAX marks.
  • ✅ Start your Outback and press the brake pedal again. It should feel firm, not spongy.
  • ✅ Test the brakes at low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
  • ✅ Bed in the new pads with several gentle stops from 30-40 mph, allowing cooling time between stops.
  • ✅ Avoid hard braking for the first 100-200 miles unless needed for safety.
  • ✅ Recheck lug nut torque after the first short drive: Torque to 120 Nm (89 ft-lbs).

💰 DIY vs Shop Cost

Shop Cost: $220-$380 (parts + labor)

DIY Cost: $45-$110 (parts only)

You Save: $175-$270 by doing it yourself!

Shop labor rates vary but typically run $100-$150/hour. This repair takes a shop approximately 1.0-1.5 hours.


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